3 new tires... in two days --- UGH!

[mikebike]

Got some nice new tires on the FJR yesterday (Michelins Pilot Road 3's) -- and then with 46 miles on them ..... Hit a NAIL.

So with 46 miles on it -- it was retired. A new one is in place.

 

[RossKean]

Got some nice new tires on the FJR yesterday (Michelins Pilot Road 3's) -- and then with 46 miles on them ..... Hit a NAIL.
So with 46 miles on it -- it was retired. A new one is in place.

Not patchable? As long as it is a simple puncture and not affecting the sidewall, I have no problem with a properly done patch. Patch-plug from the inside rather than a sticky string. I have had punctures on virtually new tires that have gone on for another 8,000 miles after repair. (Everyone has their own comfort level with riding a patched tire. I don't want to start a shitstorm here)

 

[leedavis]

I pull over, put a sticky string in the hole, pump the tire back up with the Slime pump and keep rolling.

 

[Justin]

I'll pay shipping and a little extra if you are just going to throw it away

 

[JamesW]

Got some nice new tires on the FJR yesterday (Michelins Pilot Road 3's) -- and then with 46 miles on them ..... Hit a NAIL.
So with 46 miles on it -- it was retired. A new one is in place.

I would do the same thing just for the piece of mind. Actually did that a few years ago with an almost new bridgestone on the wing.

 

[wfooshee]

No reason at all to toss a tire for a simple small puncture.

If it's a cut rather than a straight puncture, then yeah, it's toast. And sidewall is not repairable.

Otherwise, sticky string and it's forever! Voice of experience.

 

[escapefjrtist]

Bad luck dude! If you're comfortable with it a plug from the inside will allow you to run it out. YMMV

Rhetorical question...What's the deal with new tires and nails, sure seems that's when you're most likely to gather one up. Get past the 1000 mile mark and all's well...

--G

 

[lnewlf]

Sticky string forms a nice shrooom..

 

[mikebike]

I know it probably could have been patched/plugged..... but I would be thinking about it ... and for $200 I was riding again in 1.5 hours and no worries in my feeble sub-conscious.

on a good note... my progressive insurance came with 100% roadside assistance so no fees for the transport to the shop where I had the tire changed.

on an interesting note-- when it went flat -- I was at about 75mph (just finishing passing a car)-- and the bike only wanted to go straight -- eased off throttle slowly and worked it right about 6-12" at a time ...

bottom line --- safe ... and happy

 

[Old Guy]

I pull over, put a sticky string in the hole, pump the tire back up with the Slime pump and keep rolling.

Same here. I don't know how many motorcycle tires I've plugged since I started using tubeless -- never a problem.

I expect someone at the shop plugged that tire and kept it for himself.

 

[crumpadump]

Same thing happened to me with a new tire. Came to the forum listened to the experience found here put a string in it. It's been over 8,000 miles since and no problems.

 

[SoCalFJR1300]

Like someone mentioned above, a patch/plug from the inside is the way to go, don't know anyone who ever had a problem with a tire repaired that way.

I had a worm plug come out on me once, maybe old glue and I don't trust the glue for a permenant repair anyway.

The patch/plug gets "vulcanized" to the tire.

 

[jmgrif]

I have Plug N Go! The string vulcanizes with the tire from the heat generated while riding, I think? Just trim the string close to the tire surface and no hard acceleration for a little while. Until the string bonds with the surrounding tire it could be pulled out otherwise! No failures up to this point anyway. In the past I did a plug patch from the inside but, it's really important to scuff the area around where the plug covers the inside of the tire, I didn't scuff it properly and it failed with a slow leak. Getting the plug out was then a real pain!

 

[Donal]

Here is Dunlop's take on tyre repair clicky

Extract from the above:

TYRE REPAIR
Some punctures in motorcycle tyres may be repaired. Dunlop recommends only permanent patch/plug repairs of small (maximum 1/4-inch diameter) tread area punctures from within the dismounted tyre by a qualified tyre repair shop or motorcycle dealer. Never perform an exterior repair and never use an inner tube as a substitute for a proper repair.

Speed should not exceed 80kph (50mph) for the first 24 hours after repair, and the repaired tyre should never be used at speeds higher than 120kph (75mph). Check inflation pressure after tyre
cools for at least three hours following run-in, or sooner if air loss is suspected.

No form of temporary repair should be attempted because secondary damage caused by a penetrating object may not be detected and tyre or tube deflation may occur at a later date.

Dunlop does not recommend the use of liquid sealants. These are a form of temporary repair, and may adversely affect ply material and mask secondary damage caused by a penetrating object.
Reliance upon sealants can result in sudden tyre failure and accident.

DUNLOP MOTORCYCLE TUBELESS TYRE REPAIR INFORMATION
Dunlop recommends only permanent repairs performed from the inside of the tyre, using a combination patch/plug method. Never attempt a repair from the outside, or inject a sealant, or simply use an inner tube, patch or plug as a substitute for a proper repair.

Only a qualified tyre repair shop or motorcycle tyre dealer should perform repairs. Inspection of the tyre and adequacy of repair becomes the responsibility of the person actually performing the repair and Dunlop does not warrant the results of a repair in any way.

Before any repair is attempted, a tyre must be removed from the wheel and thoroughly inspected. The following are minimum guidelines for the repairer. Tyres should not be repaired if any of the following conditions exist:

• a tyre has been previously injected with a sealant/balancer
• the puncture is larger than 6mm (1/4-inch) in diameter
• the puncture is not perpendicular to the carcass
• the puncture is in the tyre sidewall
• separation of plies, tread separation, separation of any other components
• cut or broken ply cords
• broken or damaged bead wires
• cut or damaged chafers (bead area)
• deterioration of the carcass inside the tyre due to “run flat” or under-inflation
• cracks or other damage to the integrity of the inner liner
• excessive wear – tyre should have at least 1/32 of an inch of tread depth, excluding tread wear indicators
• cracks in sidewall or tread
• impact breaks, cuts, snags or gouges that penetrate the surface.

Please note:

• There should be no more than one repair per tyre
• The wheel itself must be in good condition. A cracked or bent wheel may lead to loss of air and cause subsequent deflation of the tyre
• Following repair, the valve assembly should be replaced and the tyre/wheel rebalanced
• Speed should not exceed 80kph (50mph) for the first 24 hours after tyre repair and the repaired tyre should never be used at speeds higher than 120kph (75mph)
• The repairer is solely responsible for instructing the motorcyclist as to the restrictions to be placed on tyre use following repair. In summary, no form of temporary repair should be attempted. Motorcycle tyre repairs leave no room for error and any doubt as to inspection or adequacy of repair should be resolved by discarding the tyre

Be sure to consult our Motorcycle Tyre Limited Warranty, Care and Maintenance brochure for additional information regarding the use of Dunlop tyres. Seek a qualified motorcycle tyre repair centre for more details. Never attempt to repair a damaged tyre without the assistance of an experienced tyre mechanic.

 

[SoCalFJR1300]

I have Plug N Go! The string vulcanizes with the tire from the heat generated while riding, I think?

I don't think the tire gets that hot.

 

[Donal]

Came across this relatively simple 'how to'

for carrying out a patch/plug type repair. The demo shows it on a car tyre but..................

 

[Old Guy]

Anyone here ever tried Dynaplugs? https://www.dynaplug.com/

I carry one on each bike because they're much easier to use than the rope-type. I've got arthritis in both hands, and those rope-type plugs are hard to push through. I plugged a nail hole in my truck tire a couple of years ago with it, and it's still holding fine, but a sample of one is not that definitive

 

[phroenips]

Anyone here ever tried Dynaplugs? https://www.dynaplug.com/
I carry one on each bike because they're much easier to use than the rope-type. I've got arthritis in both hands, and those rope-type plugs are hard to push through. I plugged a nail hole in my truck tire a couple of years ago with it, and it's still holding fine, but a sample of one is not that definitive

Yep, and I no longer even carry them on the bike. Tried it on two occasions, and while both times it was enough to get home, I still had to stop every 30-60 minutes to check the air pressure and top up.

 

[Old Guy]

Anyone here ever tried Dynaplugs? https://www.dynaplug.com/
I carry one on each bike because they're much easier to use than the rope-type. I've got arthritis in both hands, and those rope-type plugs are hard to push through. I plugged a nail hole in my truck tire a couple of years ago with it, and it's still holding fine, but a sample of one is not that definitive

Yep, and I no longer even carry them on the bike. Tried it on two occasions, and while both times it was enough to get home, I still had to stop every 30-60 minutes to check the air pressure and top up.

Thanks for the input. It's been OK on my truck tire so far, but they don't look as secure as the rope plugs, which I've used many times successfully.