A cure for stiff bag locks

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Wouldn't it be simpler and easier to have rubbed the plastic down a mm or two with some emery paper, wouldn't even need to take the plate off, just loosen a little insert price of emery paper and drag back and forth over plastic till plate is not binding.
Not sure that would be simpler, also my way gives me the result I want with no chance of bits of ground off plastic or emery powder getting into the mechanism, and requires no skill.
Where about in Scotland are you? Going there for the first week in October.

 
I'm about 5 minutes from Stirling
Will be passing Stirling on the M9 (or the A9 if we go over the new Queensferry bridge) then on to the A84 to Killin for our first night. After that we avoid motorways and the A9 until we head back home. Hoping for not too bad weather and not too much tourist traffic (which has been growing steadily over the past 13 years that I've been going to Scotland).

 
I'm about 5 minutes from Stirling
Will be passing Stirling on the M9 (or the A9 if we go over the new Queensferry bridge) then on to the A84 to Killin for our first night. After that we avoid motorways and the A9 until we head back home. Hoping for not too bad weather and not too much tourist traffic (which has been growing steadily over the past 13 years that I've been going to Scotland).
if going over the new bridge, can I suggest this route? (link below to google maps) Ok so a few miles up the M90, but then onto some of the most beautiful countryside and great riding roads, Glendevon is spectacular, as is St Fillans, and this route has way less traffic than boring A84. on Leaving Killin on the next day are heading to Aberfeldy through Kenmore? (you should) Or are you heading west?

https://goo.gl/maps/6vFwLtcCGmL2

 
Thanks for the map. Yes, I've gone along there before, passed over (and walked down to) the Grumbling Bridge more than once. But I might do it, my original route was to avoid motorways as much as sensibly possible. Good option, though.

After Killin, I'm in the hands of our leader, he hails from Guernsey but knows Scotland much better than I do. There's a group of 5 or 6 of us meeting up in Killin. I'm the only FJR in the group.

 
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Someone mentioned using graphite in the locks. That may be OK on locks but do not use it in the ignition key hole.
Why not? It's not like someone will be adding enough to leave the lock and complete a connection inside the switch (if that is even possible!)

 
mcatrophy posted: Thanks for the map. Yes, I've gone along there before, passed over (and walked down to) the Grumbling Bridge more than once. But I might do it, my original route was to avoid motorways as much as sensibly possible. Good option, though.
After Killin, I'm in the hands of our leader, he hails from Guernsey but knows Scotland much better than I do. There's a group of 5 or 6 of us meeting up in Killin. I'm the only FJR in the group.
Out of likes for the day -- perhaps I am only allowed one. Quoting mcatrophy's post to say "I like this!"

 
Thanks for the map. Yes, I've gone along there before, passed over (and walked down to) the Grumbling Bridge more than once. But I might do it, my original route was to avoid motorways as much as sensibly possible. Good option, though.After Killin, I'm in the hands of our leader, he hails from Guernsey but knows Scotland much better than I do. There's a group of 5 or 6 of us meeting up in Killin. I'm the only FJR in the group.
Well hopefully he will have you leaving Killin following Loch Tay into Aberfeldy, then up through the Sma' Glen through Amulree, at least at some point. Enjoy your ride.

 
Someone mentioned using graphite in the locks. That may be OK on locks but do not use it in the ignition key hole.
Why not? It's not like someone will be adding enough to leave the lock and complete a connection inside the switch (if that is even possible!)
Once upon a time on this forum it was posted not to use graphite in the ignition key hole. If I recall, it was to do with it gumming up the mechanism over time. Back to the bag lock issue, I have never had an issue with tight locks. Perhaps I am not a candidate. I very rarely ride in rain and the bike never sits out overnight uncovered. It is garaged and covered most of the time. Bike is always cleaned with just a wet cloth unless mud or road grime from a surprise rain. Mild soap and water followed by a wax job after cleaning is routine. I'm an odd ball about all my vehicles.

 
I used graphite. I didn't like how it worked. As my bike, while always garaged, is ridden frequently in the rain, I just found the powder to get a little cake-y. I flush occasionally with silicon spray. It's not perfect, but it works, and it doesn't gum up or appear to attract dirt.

 
I am glad to see FJRForum members continue their detailed, exhaustive research that goes into every aspect of this platform.
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I'll throw in two pennies about this subject that I haven't read in this thread yet.... if your luggage key starts off life working just fine, but over time you start to notice it's getting harder and harder to turn, it's very likely that one or both Torx security fasteners have been backing out as they prepare to allow the lock to fall out. The lock becomes hard to turn because the (now extended) Torx fastener head begins to strike the adjacent plastic during the turn.

Concur with others that a small dab of Loctite Blue is indicated for these Torx fasteners.

 

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