A Friday Ride Gone Bad

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That damage to the OP's wheel is a joke to the guys that fix rims, I'd repair that in a heartbeat for $150.
I guess this is where you take the fork in the road to the left, and I head to the fork on the right. If you're comfortable with that...I'm happy for you and would wish you well.

Since I'm not the trusting kind, and know just enough of metals to be dangerous I would not...and would spend the money for a new wheel. It would take a full day treatise from a doctorate in mettallurgy on how this could be repaired fully to convince me that that sort of rupture in the aluminum wheel could be made right. But that's just me.

Either way, I'm glad the OP made out without serious injury.
I agree!

After I go through the insurance process and have my new parts and see what the inside looks like I will determine if it even satisfies as a spare. I doubt it.

Not that I don't believe you guys who advocate for a repair, I can. However it is me and I want new. Just who I am. I am not rich and do not even have a job, but I will cover the cost of parts new, insurance or not.

I can not even believe anyone would re-use the bearings. I mean OMG it laid that rim up like a tin can, at a spoke no less, and you would take a chance that impact did not scare, flat, deform even one ball bearing in those bearings?

Maybe it is just one of those "got to be there" things?

Seriously I do hear you guys saying fix it, and I may once I see the inside, but I think it is going to be ugly, and any shade change of metal (indication of stretching in my mind)on the inside, or as I suspect a crack, and it goes to the dump. I would not even "Pay It Forward" as I consider it a safety issue and would not do it.

Again just me and what I feel comfortable with, not being ungrateful for information given when I asked.

The turning point is as I said, when in a calmer state of mind and eye the next day, I just would never trust it or get the picture out of my mind. You can see the crack I am talking about in the pics I posted.

Insurance man is coming Friday morning so Friday afternoon I will see the inside of the rim and snap pictures then.

 
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Even though you pretend to be some kind of sadistic clown (hey, that's your avatar choice, not mine) I have to agree with your initial assessment. When a set of crappy tahrs costs us $250-350, is it really wise to mount them onto a highly questionable rim? Tahrs only last 5-6 or 10 k miles at most. A wheel should last forever (if you quit bonkin' road hazards... )

Even if it doesn't fail on you tomorrow, what about 2 or 3 or 10 years down the road? :unsure:

We all make our own choices and (subsequently) take our chances. ;)

 
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Even though you pretend to be some kind of sadistic clown (hey, that's your avatar choice, not mine) I have to agree with your initial assessment. When a set of crappy tahrs costs us $250-350, is it really wise to mount them onto a highly questionable rim? Tahrs only last 5-6 or 10 k miles at most. A wheel should last forever (if you quit bonkin' road hazards... )

Even if it doesn't fail on you tomorrow, what about 2 or 3 or 10 years down the road? :unsure:

We all make our own choices and (subsequently) take our chances. ;)
Hey that Avatar is one of the tattoos I have. It really is a awesome picture full size, Stephen Kings "It" is a pussy next to this guy :p

Yeah "bonkin" (or is it boinking?) is hazardous to your wallet in almost all cases.

 
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The Quote, wheel off to the shop, me picking it up and reinstalling it?

$1225.22

Wheel, PR2, bearings, dust covers, and swapping rotors with new bolts, balance wheel.

Add 150.00 for a tow and it was a bad Friday for me.

It is what it is, deal with insurance, and see what is what.

Cost of parts including wheel without a bunch of hunting was less than 675.00 including tire.

 
The Quote, wheel off to the shop, me picking it up and reinstalling it?

$1225.22

Wheel, PR2, bearings, dust covers, and swapping rotors with new bolts, balance wheel.

Add 150.00 for a tow and it was a bad Friday for me.

It is what it is, deal with insurance, and see what is what.

Cost of parts including wheel without a bunch of hunting was less than 675.00 including tire.
That sucks, either way. So, what exactly does the shop want the extra $550 clams for exactly? :unsure:

 
The Quote, wheel off to the shop, me picking it up and reinstalling it?

$1225.22

Wheel, PR2, bearings, dust covers, and swapping rotors with new bolts, balance wheel.

Add 150.00 for a tow and it was a bad Friday for me.

It is what it is, deal with insurance, and see what is what.

Cost of parts including wheel without a bunch of hunting was less than 675.00 including tire.
That sucks, either way. So, what exactly does the shop want the extra $550 clams for exactly? :unsure:
Bearings, 15 minutes of removing rotors, and blinker fluid top-off.

 
Progressive paid me the labor to install a new topbox and light kit ($140.00) even after explaining I would be doing the work myself. I feel like I stole something.

Here hoping you get a good adjuster...
wink.gif


 
Cost difference is parts.

Wheel 659 from the shop, 518 or less on line.

PR2 206 from the shop, 116 to my door.

Bearings 41.98 from the shop, 28.00 to my door

Rotor bolts 47.88 from shop, 24.84 to my door

Oil Seals shop 13.98, 8.70 to my door

I can see needing to make a buck to keep the lights on but this is all too much.

Labor is like 120 bucks. Imagine if I had towed it there instead of home?

All parts on order and should be about 10 days out for everything to arrive.

 
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Cost difference is parts.

Wheel 659 from the shop, 518 or less on line.

PR2 206 from the shop, 116 to my door.

Bearings 41.98 from the shop, 28.00 to my door

Rotor bolts 47.88 from shop, 24.84 to my door

Oil Seals shop 13.98, 8.70 to my door

I can see needing to make a buck to keep the lights on but this is all too much.

Labor is like 120 bucks. Imagine if I had towed it there instead of home?

All parts on order and should be about 10 days out for everything to arrive.
Wheel rim on Boats.Net for $399.00

Don

 
Cost difference is parts.

Wheel 659 from the shop, 518 or less on line.

PR2 206 from the shop, 116 to my door.

Bearings 41.98 from the shop, 28.00 to my door

Rotor bolts 47.88 from shop, 24.84 to my door

Oil Seals shop 13.98, 8.70 to my door

I can see needing to make a buck to keep the lights on but this is all too much.

Labor is like 120 bucks. Imagine if I had towed it there instead of home?

All parts on order and should be about 10 days out for everything to arrive.
Wheel rim on Boats.Net for $399.00
Different number than for a 10 when you look it up and a different prefix. Hell I don't know why and am not really going to bother on it. I have to call and will ask but as I said it has a different part number and has a LGB in the breakdown description number, where the one I ordered has a S8 in the parts breakdown description and a totally different part number.

I will call today.

Edit: Just called and that wheel does not come up for order in the US? He said it may be a country specific wheel. He said the wheel I ordered is the correct wheel for my FJR. He also said if the other was right he would have changed the cost, but since it is not he could not help. He only ensured me my order was correct for my bike.

Also said ship date was the 13th. Man that is good news.

 
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I guess I should go out and look, but do the ABS sensors and stuff come off with the rotors, or are they part of the wheel?

I guess my question is: Is the wheel shell the same, but with different sensors for different years bolted on??

 
I guess I should go out and look, but do the ABS sensors and stuff come off with the rotors, or are they part of the wheel?

I guess my question is: Is the wheel shell the same, but with different sensors for different years bolted on??
Can't be sure, but think the wheel castings are different. If you look at my pictures in post 45, you'll see in the '10 there are three screws apparently holding the magnet part of the speed sensor to the wheel. No such screws in the '06.

 
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