I worry about putting too much heat on it. There might be seals inside that could be damaged. I wish there was an engineering diagram available for this part.Maybe more heat than a heat dryer, like a REAL heat gun, or careful, judicious application of flame with a propane torch might do the trick?
One of these little guys...
Best of luck, and if it works out, PLEASE let us know (especially those of us with dead ABS units!)
ABS not working, ABS light works okay, 2004 FJR
- Thread starter Gyrobob
- Start date
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escapefjrtist
Searching for Dry Roads
Only trick to reassembly would be sourcing small seals and/or gaskets once you opened it up. If the problem was only a stuck spool, I would think a thorough disassembly and cleanup would revive the unit.
Try some more heat and gentle tapping...can't hurt and you have nothing to lose.
Good luck!
--G
Try some more heat and gentle tapping...can't hurt and you have nothing to lose.
Good luck!
--G
RadioHowie
I Miss Beemerdons!
Look at it this way...all you can do at this point is to "coax" it into working again. If your attempts fail, you haven't lost anything you've not already lost, i.e., your ABS pump.
Kinda harsh, but true.
Just don't set the rest of the bike on fire....but if you do, we want pix!!
Kinda harsh, but true.
Just don't set the rest of the bike on fire....but if you do, we want pix!!
mcatrophy
Privileged to ride a 2018 FJR1300AS
The workshop manual (at least for the '06) has a reasonable diagrammatic description the internals of the ABS pump and how it operates, though it doesn't detail the seals. Worth having the manual for all sorts of reasons anyway.
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Donal
Well-known member
At this stage I would opt for the cautious approach. You have already managed to get the front (most important) ABS to work again; that is a major win in my book!
You think (believe) there may be signs of life in the rear. Just get out and ride and whenever you have time to spare run the ABS function test. At some stage it would probably be worth flushing both systems one more time.
I would definitely not apply a flame type heater to the ABS block, as you say there is just too much risk of damaging seals etc. YMMV
You think (believe) there may be signs of life in the rear. Just get out and ride and whenever you have time to spare run the ABS function test. At some stage it would probably be worth flushing both systems one more time.
I would definitely not apply a flame type heater to the ABS block, as you say there is just too much risk of damaging seals etc. YMMV
Yup, I am a cautious fellow. Flames are out. The hair dryer can get the thing almost too hot to touch after about 5 minutes, anyway.
I am trying to figure out a way to vibrate the ABS block while doing the tests. That way it might have more of a chance to free up one of the spools.
-- I don't want to use anything brutal, obviously, but just to make it "tremble" when the ABS pump is trying to move the spool.
-- What I have tried so far:
--- Touch the corner of a sabre saw face to the block. No results from that, and I am not surprised because when I feel block while the saw face is in contact, the block is not vibrating all that much.
--- I also tried touching the edge of the vibrating part of a Mouse (a little handheld orbital sander) but still no significant vibration imparted to the block.
Any other ideas anyone?
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Service manual on a CD
Ebay has several.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-FJR1300-FJR-A-AE-Service-Repair-Maintenance-Shop-TSS-Manual-2003-2007-/181115152033?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a2b4de6a1&vxp=mtr
https://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-FJR1300-Service-Repair-Manual-2003-2004-2005-/261198711253?pt=Motors_Manuals_Literature&hash=item3cd0a809d5&vxp=mtr
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-FJR1300-FJR-1300-2003-2005-Workshop-Service-Manual-/320835489501?pt=UK_CarParts_Vehicles_Manuals_Litterature_ET&hash=item4ab3490edd
Any opinions on this?
Ebay has several.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-FJR1300-FJR-A-AE-Service-Repair-Maintenance-Shop-TSS-Manual-2003-2007-/181115152033?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a2b4de6a1&vxp=mtr
https://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-FJR1300-Service-Repair-Manual-2003-2004-2005-/261198711253?pt=Motors_Manuals_Literature&hash=item3cd0a809d5&vxp=mtr
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-FJR1300-FJR-1300-2003-2005-Workshop-Service-Manual-/320835489501?pt=UK_CarParts_Vehicles_Manuals_Litterature_ET&hash=item4ab3490edd
Any opinions on this?
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ionbeam
2 FUN
Edit to remove reply.
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Donal
Well-known member
Just be thankful you've got that far. Keep an eye on E-bay for a replacement block they do come up from time to time.
TomInPA
Well-known member
I think this thread and the other recent thread have a common lesson...keep the fluids changed before problems set in. The ABS block is clearly not tolerant of older contaminated fluids.
It may be even more than that. When you do a fluid flush you may not be moving the old fluid out of some parts of the ABS block. If you never actuate the ABS then flushing may leave harmful aged fluid in there for years.
Probably a good idea to both exercise the ABS periodically (like maybe at every oil change?) to move the fluid around and flush the fluid out annually for the health of the system.
When I flushed the rear brake system, I replace the fluid in the reservoir, pumped the pedal a lot, and ran fluid through the nipple at the caliper the standard way (reservoir to caliper) and in reverse using the Eze-bleeder. I did all that to make sure that every molecule of old fluid was replaced.
Now, though, I am wondering how much fresh fluid actually got to the ABS pump block. I still don't have any service manuals that show a diagram of that part and how it works. I downloaded a couple of different versions for 2001-2006 FJrs, but neither covered ABS bikes.
Now, though, I am wondering how much fresh fluid actually got to the ABS pump block. I still don't have any service manuals that show a diagram of that part and how it works. I downloaded a couple of different versions for 2001-2006 FJrs, but neither covered ABS bikes.
This First Gen ABS functional block diagram, and description of operation may help to understand where in the system fluid will remain when bleeding the brakes.
In the first of the three diagrams you can see that everything to the right side of the hydraulic assembly is blocked off from the rest of the brake system until the ABS is activated.
My theory of what is happening to those bikes that have the ABS stuck is that the spool valve is getting stuck in the "normal" position. So even if the solenoid valve opens no fluid pressure is being relieved. It appears that the spool moves because of the fluid pressure on the "normal" side.
Maybe something one of the folks with a stuck ABS could try doing to free it up would be to generate some extreme high pressure on the "normal" side by pressing real hard on the foot brake lever while simultaneously running the ABS diagnostic to operate the pump and solenoids.
In the first of the three diagrams you can see that everything to the right side of the hydraulic assembly is blocked off from the rest of the brake system until the ABS is activated.
My theory of what is happening to those bikes that have the ABS stuck is that the spool valve is getting stuck in the "normal" position. So even if the solenoid valve opens no fluid pressure is being relieved. It appears that the spool moves because of the fluid pressure on the "normal" side.
Maybe something one of the folks with a stuck ABS could try doing to free it up would be to generate some extreme high pressure on the "normal" side by pressing real hard on the foot brake lever while simultaneously running the ABS diagnostic to operate the pump and solenoids.
I did try what you said a few times,... pushed down hard on the rear brake and operated both types of the diagnostic test. Maybe I ought to do that some more.
I also notice some small plugs on the forware and aft ends of the block. I wonder if those plugs plug holes in the end of the cylinders the spools move in. If so, I wonder it you could remove the plug, stick a soft skinny drift in the hole,.... tink,tink,tink,.. free up the spool?
I also notice some small plugs on the forware and aft ends of the block. I wonder if those plugs plug holes in the end of the cylinders the spools move in. If so, I wonder it you could remove the plug, stick a soft skinny drift in the hole,.... tink,tink,tink,.. free up the spool?
wheatonFJR
...
ionbeam
2 FUN
He was looking at 'alternative' manuals on ebay and asked us what we thought. I retracted my thoughts that I had posted because he may have thought that I was being unhelpful.
The only service manual that is not a stolen copyright violation is the paper manual from Yamaha. The FJR factory service manual (FSM) is not as good as many factory manuals but it is the best manual available so far. The FSM from Yamaha is not available on CD. A name brand manual company says that they want to print their own manual for the FJR but it will be a long way off.
The only service manual that is not a stolen copyright violation is the paper manual from Yamaha. The FJR factory service manual (FSM) is not as good as many factory manuals but it is the best manual available so far. The FSM from Yamaha is not available on CD. A name brand manual company says that they want to print their own manual for the FJR but it will be a long way off.
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I have already downloaded two, but neither had the ABS system. Luckily the vendors gave me a refund. I have been asking other vendors first, now, if their manual covers Gen 1 ABS before I download anymore, So far they have not responded. Hopefully, this not being the weekend anymore, someone with a manual that covers ABS will respond.
I see what are supposed to be paper factory manuals on ebay. What is the diff between a service manual and a supplementary manual? The descriptions aren't very clear as to which of the paper manuals apply to what year.
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