Adding coolant

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Pat C

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I was checking my coolant level and it was at the lower level, I want to add some but getting at the cap doesn't look that easy. How do you remove cap without removing a lot of plastic?

 
Yes...well...that's the trick, isn't it.

I have a Gen I and we have to pull the right side fairing to get to the coolant tank.....and, the cover is bolted on so we have to remove the bolt that usually falls and has to be hunted with a magnet.

I hope there was an improvement with the Gen II tanks.

 
Yes...well...that's the trick, isn't it.

I have a Gen I and we have to pull the right side fairing to get to the coolant tank.....and, the cover is bolted on so we have to remove the bolt that usually falls and has to be hunted with a magnet.

I hope there was an improvement with the Gen II tanks.
I have a Gen 1 and agree with Mike it is difficult, but you CAN get the bolt off the cover with a 10mm wrench without taking off the fairing. You then take the cap off and spill about a gallon of coolant trying to pour it in the tank with the fairing on. :lol: Actually I think I use a hose and funnel. When you go to put the bolt back in you have to be carefull about making sure the coolant tank is lined up with the stationary backup nut when you insert the bolt so that you don't cross thread the bolt. DAMHIK

 
IIRC GenII's are just a matter of removing the smaller black panels. I added coolant to design flaws this spring and it was a five minute job..

 
I was checking my coolant level and it was at the lower level, I want to add some but getting at the cap doesn't look that easy. How do you remove cap without removing a lot of plastic?
If I remember correctly, I think that you CAN work your fingers in there to get the cap off of the reservoir and add coolant with a turkey baster.

 
IIRC GenII's are just a matter of removing the smaller black panels. I added coolant to design flaws this spring and it was a five minute job..
I just replaced the coolant on my Gen II for the first time and had to remove the upper plastic and top black. I don't see how you can get to the gen II coolant resevoir without removing the plastic. :unsure:

 
If I remember correctly, I think that you CAN work your fingers in there to get the cap off of the reservoir and add coolant with a turkey baster.
Ok, now I see..you can remove the resevoir cap through the vents. Time try out my first picture upload...lookyie here :dribble: :

PGG2256-1-L.jpg


 
You can pop the rubber top on the overflow bottle and use a turkey baster something similar. I have a fuel filter I gutted and put a piece of rubber hose on so its like a funnel. I have done it many times and is a five minute job. You could also pop the radiator cap like bust said.

 
You can pop the rubber top on the overflow bottle and use a turkey baster something similar. I have a fuel filter I gutted and put a piece of rubber hose on so its like a funnel. I have done it many times and is a five minute job. You could also pop the radiator cap like bust said.
Ok thanks,it just pops off not unscrews? Also what do you recommend for coolant?

 
You can pop the rubber top on the overflow bottle and use a turkey baster something similar. I have a fuel filter I gutted and put a piece of rubber hose on so its like a funnel. I have done it many times and is a five minute job. You could also pop the radiator cap like bust said.
Ok thanks,it just pops off not unscrews? Also what do you recommend for coolant?
Make your life easy and just get some Prestone 50/50 pre-mix (the greenish yellow stuff) and add it. Some folks like the Honda 50/50 pre-mix. Never tried it myself, but Skooter G talks about it and he's ridden his FJR around the planet 25 times I think.

 
On a genII bike all you need to do is pop the black cap off the overflow bottle with your finger and stick in a small elongated funnel or use a turkey baster. easy to do 2 minute job at most.

 
Interesting point...

Why is coolant being added? If it is because there is a leak in the system, then the addition of 50-50 diluted antifreeze is appropriate.

If it is due to evaporation, the addition of more 50-50 would increase the concentration of the glycol/additives. Water evaporates but ethylene glycol (and the dissolved additives) do not to any appreciable extent.

With the assumption that I don't have a leak somewhere in the system, I normally (maybe once per year) top it off with distilled water. I normally change coolant annually - somethimes every second year.

Ross

 
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Interesting point...

Why is coolant being added? If it is because there is a leak in the system, then the addition of 50-50 diluted antifreeze is appropriate.

If it is due to evaporation, the addition of more 50-50 would increase the concentration of the glycol/additives. Water evaporates but ethylene glycol (and the dissolved additives) do not to any appreciable extent.

With the assumption that I don't have a leak somewhere in the system, I normally (maybe once per year) top it off with distilled water. I normally change coolant annually - somethimes every second year.

Ross
Refresh me here....how is water gonna evaporate from a sealed system?

If there is an opening for water to evaporate from, then it's gonna spew hot coolant like a mofo when the bike's up to normal temp, no matter how small the opening.

 
Interesting point...

Why is coolant being added? If it is because there is a leak in the system, then the addition of 50-50 diluted antifreeze is appropriate.

If it is due to evaporation, the addition of more 50-50 would increase the concentration of the glycol/additives. Water evaporates but ethylene glycol (and the dissolved additives) do not to any appreciable extent.

With the assumption that I don't have a leak somewhere in the system, I normally (maybe once per year) top it off with distilled water. I normally change coolant annually - somethimes every second year.

Ross
Refresh me here....how is water gonna evaporate from a sealed system?

If there is an opening for water to evaporate from, then it's gonna spew hot coolant like a mofo when the bike's up to normal temp, no matter how small the opening.
So, where is the coolant going with no obvious leaks. The overflow tank is not at the system pressure. If it was, the rubber bung would pop off.

 
Refresh me here....how is water gonna evaporate from a sealed system?
The cooling system is sealed until the pressure-cap opens and connects the system to the overflow tank -- the overflow tank is open to the atmosphere (not sealed).

BTW, the overflow tank is where coolant additions/corrections are normally performed.

As to coolant loss: the FJR's coolant pump has a weep-hole to facilitate losses from the 'non-perfect' ceramic mechanical-face-seal used on the rotating pump shaft/impeller.

Minute coolant leaks may (also) happen, from-time-to-time, from heating/cooling -- expansion/contraction at numerous hose attachment points and rubber o-ring sealed joints.

 
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FWIW- I was thinking of putting on a "captive" washer on the back of the bolt that holds the black cap over the resevoir top. By captive washer, I mean a thin washer that will keep the bolt from coming off the black cover. This way you could loosen the bolt and remove the cover without fear of the bolt falling down.

I've made them before from a thin piece of flexible plastic. Just slot it so the bolt can fit through it. Then install the bolt through the cover, put the plastic piece on the over the bolt from the back side then install the cover back on the bike. When removing the cover you just pull back on the cover as you loosen the bolt and the bolt should stay with the cover.

 
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