Advice on placement of Power Commander?

[eworth]

Hey again,

Seems pretty obvious from my other topic that the Power Commander is in my immediate future?

Can you all tell me where you have been mounting it?

How are you mounting it?

Any pics?

Will take any advice ya'll have to offer.

Thanks,

Eworth

 

[ionbeam]

Gen I, in the tool tray along with the tool kit.

 

[eworth]

Gen I, in the tool tray along with the tool kit.

10-4

 

[ionbeam]

...with the supplied Velcro.

 

[wfooshee]

I actually stuck mine behind the tool tray, strapped it down with the rubber loop that's there for the U-lock we don't get in America. Cable is long enough, and my tool tray is still a tool tray.

You need to remove a couple of bolts on the side of the tool tray, and the rear bracket for the gas tank, to get the cable routed under those sections.

 

[Solo]

Just behind the tool tray with the rubber band that is begging to be used. Works great for the Gen II. Like it was made for it.

 

[Solo]

My god you Gen I owners get up early on Saturday.... Got nothing to do but spend time on the neenernet?

 

[ionbeam]

My god you Gen I owners get up early on Saturday.... Got nothing to do but spend time on the neenernet?

Had been up since 5:00, was just finishing a weather check before leaving for the White/Green Mountain ride. Now these are road reports

 

[MCML]

Gen I. In tray under rider's seat...next to Fuzeblock....Starcom under pillion set. Replaced the tool kit with "real" tools.

 

[edjo69]

In the tool tray. I use the rubber band to hold my Penske remote reservoir, and as other have said get a real tool kit/roll and carry it elsewhere.

 

[Cavy]

It comes with install instructions and pictures.

 

[Auburn]

IIRC you are removing the PAIR system when you do this. When you put it the heat sheild back and the t bar, I put mine on top of the heat sheild and under the front part of the T bar. IT is out of the way and does not take up your tool tray.

The biggest tip I can give, is make sure you solidily ground the ground wire. Otherwise if it gets loose your bike will not start. And you will chase it for a while before you think to check the ground on the PC.

If you are messing with the map, you can temporarily locate it under the seat, then put back under the tank.

Have fun with it.

I am probably going to switch from the PCIII to the PCV to have the two map capability so when I am towing my trailer, I can shift to a richer map for passing and them back to the Useless Pickles smoothness map.

 

[wfooshee]

PAIR removal is not required for the Power Commander. A lot of folks just do it at the same time, as long as the tank is up.

 

[Auburn]

PAIR removal is not required for the Power Commander. A lot of folks just do it at the same time, as long as the tank is up.

Correct. I was referring to his other thread where he said he was removing it. That creates a lot of space up front that the PC will fit into easily

 

[Scrib]

I thought PAIR removal was necessary if you install Autotune as well . . .

 

[wfooshee]

PAIR has absolutely nothing to do with engine tune. It's ONLY purpose is to burn fuel that gets through the exhaust valve. Since it works in the exhaust system, anything that would happen to produce power has already happened.

 

[eworth]

Guys, I gotta tell you.

Today, I went out to the garage and started tearing into the FJR to eliminate other suggestions I've seen on the list to cure throttle abruptness and popping on decel etc.

This is what I did.:

Removed PAIR system. A snap and used NAPA 1/2 and 5/8 bypass rubber caps to seal passages ( with a bit of sealant and plastic ties to be sure)

I also did the throttle return spring unwind. Pretty easy and nice to have the PAIR system out of the way.

Then removed throttle cable free play and lastly and throttle body sync.

It rides VERY nice and I'm thinking it's hard to justify the Power Commander after how well the mods worked today. (previous G2 throttle tube installed also)

I'm thrilled.. :yahoo:

Eworth

 

[El Cajone]

Guys, I gotta tell you.
Today, I went out to the garage and started tearing into the FJR to eliminate other suggestions I've seen on the list to cure throttle abruptness and popping on decel etc.

This is what I did.:

Removed PAIR system. A snap and used NAPA 1/2 and 5/8 bypass rubber caps to seal passages ( with a bit of sealant and plastic ties to be sure)

I also did the throttle return spring unwind. Pretty easy and nice to have the PAIR system out of the way.

Then removed throttle cable free play and lastly and throttle body sync.

It rides VERY nice and I'm thinking it's hard to justify the Power Commander after how well the mods worked today. (previous G2 throttle tube installed also)

I'm thrilled.. :yahoo:

Eworth

So the advice was free and useless?

 

[eworth]

Ouch!

Still on the fence because of lean conditions but just saying that some of the problems that I wanted to cure were addressed by OTHER and CHEAPER means.

Maybe others will see the benefit in trying these alternatives before dropping a bundle elsewhere.

PC V has all kinds of merits for performance and economy. Those never were my biggest concerns.

Eworth

Guys, I gotta tell you.
Today, I went out to the garage and started tearing into the FJR to eliminate other suggestions I've seen on the list to cure throttle abruptness and popping on decel etc.

This is what I did.:

Removed PAIR system. A snap and used NAPA 1/2 and 5/8 bypass rubber caps to seal passages ( with a bit of sealant and plastic ties to be sure)

I also did the throttle return spring unwind. Pretty easy and nice to have the PAIR system out of the way.

Then removed throttle cable free play and lastly and throttle body sync.

It rides VERY nice and I'm thinking it's hard to justify the Power Commander after how well the mods worked today. (previous G2 throttle tube installed also)

I'm thrilled.. :yahoo:

Eworth

So the advice was free and useless?