AE Stuttering

[mcatrophy]

... I'd be curious if the engagement point can be adjusted without special equipment. ...

Yes. there's a connector that needs two pins shorting, then it's a fairly simple procedure.



Try the posts around here.

Couple of points:

As mentioned in my post above, It only takes one movement of the switch to change the speed, not the 4 specified (at least on my '06).

If you reduce the speed too much, you will find the clutch doesn't want to disengage nicely when coming to rest.

I find I like my idle speed set to about 900, not the 1100 many people want. I've never had any problems with the hesitation that a low idle apparently gives to some people's bikes when moving from rest, and, again, it means a nicer clutch disengagement coming to rest.

 

[Auron]

At 1050 it doesn't really want to disengage coming to a stop, just like you say. I'll try lowering it a bit.

 

[Lazybear]

Auron, sorry for this late post but I see that mcatrophy gave you all the hints you needed.

I'm glad if i could be some help.

Just a few suggestions: set idle level at least to 1000 rpm, and engagement point to the lowest possible.

My 2007 starts engaging at about 1400 rpm and disengages at around 1100, so when I come to a stop I let it roll in 2nd gear, and shift 1st only when cllutch disengages; engagement point, on the adjustment range from -10 to +10, is set to -2, but this value doesn't make much sense, as it depends on factory adjustment, wear condition of clutch plates and so on; just take some time for finding, step by step, the adjustment that best fits your riding style.

 

[Auron]

It's too high right now, I'll mess with it tomorrow but it's too high right now. So there's a range of 20 increments. How much do you adjust at a time or, how much does 1 increment do?

 

[mcatrophy]

1 increment is approx 100-150 rpm. See the third page link in my post above.

 

[Auron]

So without adjusting it, I rode about 75 miles today. It stuttered just a bit starting out, but nothing more than I've read about other bikes doing before warmed up. This makes me wonder if I could even lower the engagment point if I wanted to. I can still feel the auto-clutch makes the bike surge forward or slow suddenly at slow speeds but that's only when you are just barely crawling along.

What I noticed today is that the more agressivly you ride, the smoother the system is. Maybe I should stop riding like a ***** and just ride the thing. The idle was set pretty high, around 1350 but lowering it to 1050 didn't seem to change anything.

Such a great bike, I am really starting to appreciate it now, especially the YCCT. I can't wait to take a trip or just get a couple full days ride in.

 

[BwanaDik]

What I noticed today is that the more agressivly you ride, the smoother the system is. Maybe I should stop riding like a ***** and just ride the thing. The idle was set pretty high, around 1350 but lowering it to 1050 didn't seem to change anything.
Such a great bike, I am really starting to appreciate it now, especially the YCCT. I can't wait to take a trip or just get a couple full days ride in.

Yes, this is exactly correct. Stop being a girly man and push it some, it works much better. If you really push it hard, you will notice the clutch slips a lot when performing nearly full throttle shifts from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd (I havent been brave enough or have had enough space to try any higher gears

). This is rumored to be some sort of "anti-wheelie" circuit in the shifter brain to mitigate full throttle shifts. It's disconcerting at first because the clutch doesn't hook up like you think it should but instead slips a lot. To get around it, back off the throttle slightly just for a millisecond during the shift then wack it back on. It should hook right back up and not slip.

Do this on the track or someplace that really clear and desolate. Maybe the eastern part of your state. Remember, you're at almost 100 MPH at full revs in second gear and you arrive at that point in less than 10 seconds (4.6 sec to 60 MPH IIRC). And full throttle accelerating is pretty thrilling on these things, you need to be paying close attention.

 

[RiderX]

Remember, you're at almost 100 MPH at full revs in second gear and you arrive at that point in less than 10 seconds (4.6 sec to 60 MPH IIRC). And full throttle accelerating is pretty thrilling on these things, you need to be paying close attention.

Even a portly AE does 0-60 in under three seconds. Gotta be about 5 for 100 mph.
Unless you are loaded down like Beverly Hillbillies: https://www.dropbox.com/s/eshjunn3mrnohf0/2012-08-08%2010.18.50.jpg

 

[Oakdave]

I'm rather surprised to see, but nowhere in this topic the adjustment of clutch engagement point is mentioned: I looked at the video and the bike's behaviour is the same I experienced when, as I tried to fine-adjust it, the engagement point was set too low.
I do believe that this procedure (well explained in the service manual) would help a lot or even solve your problem.

Lazybear^^ is correct. I had the exact same problem that you're having, and adjusting the clutch engagement point to a higher rpm COMPLETELY solved the problem. At present, your clutch engagement point is set to too low of an rpm setting. IOn a 'standard' (non-AE) model, your current setting is the equivalent of pulling in the clutch, shifting down into 1st gear, and then releasing the clutch lever with NO throttle input and a low revving engine.

The procedure (to adjust the clutch engagement point) is detailed in the service manual. When doing the procedure, the goal is to set the clutch engagement point such that the rear wheel does not fully engage (not merely start spinning...but FULLY ENGAGE) at lower than 1500 rpm (preferably around 1600 -1700 rpm). Also, too high of an rpm clutch engagement point creates it's own set of problems. My experience is that anything over 1800 is about that point.