...Two weird things I did notice is that when coming to a complete stop, I guess it's when the bike disengages fully on the clutch, it does feel like there's a weird transition where the breaks kind of let up a little and come down again. It's not jarring or anything but it's something I can feel at almost every stop. Does anyone else feel this?
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The nearest I have for an explanation is that when the clutch disengages, the engine breaking stops, it can feel as if the bike almost accelerates (it doesn't, just less retardation).
...The other weird thing is that after a few thousand miles, using the foot lever to flip through gears usually causes a mechanical clunking sound that sounds like when you shift on a manual clutch system, but the finger-switch doesn't make that noise. Again, does anyone else get this?
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There is no difference in the shift mechanism between the foot switch or the finger switch, both do exactly the same thing, both are simply electrical switches. Any apparent difference in operation is due to the timing between your finger switch operation and your throttle hand, or your foot movement and your throttle hand.
...Finally, I've seen recommendations for shifting that disagree with one another and the manual isn't very clear on this.
1) Close throttle, shift, open throttle
2) Keep throttle in position, shift and let the electronic system do the opening/closing for you.
I've tired both but I typically do the first way as it feels more natural like when you're using a manual clutch.
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Basically, the idea is to unload the gearbox at the moment of operating the change switch. How you do this depends on what the bike is doing at the time.
Examples:
If you are doing any sort of reasonable acceleration, as you change up, you momentarily reduce the throttle, then put it on again. It's not "close the throottle, change, open the throttle", only a slight dip. This makes a big difference to the smoothness and speed of change.
If you are slowing and want to change down, a momentary increase in throttle as you change will smooth things out.
Both the above are just as you would do for a conventional clutch, but you have to match the times to the box's change time, which is very quick.
Most other scenarios are just adaptations of those, it will just be a matter of more or less throttle movement according to how much torque is going through the gearbox that you need to relieve.
The worst change I find is when you are in traffic, accelerate from rest to a slow speed, then changing to second without wanting to accelerate. I find I often get a clunk and a jerk. That's the one I don't often get right, even after more than three years and lots of practice!
If you don't modulate the throttle when accelerating, the clutch will slip and engage slowly, and I believe the system retards the ignition to reduce engine torque. This results in a change that seems to drag, definitely much slower than using the modulated throttle technique.
Just for the record, and this bit will be like an oil or tyre thread, I use just my forefinger to change up or down, just flicking the lever back or forward. Much easier than using the thumb to change down, and I find the timing easier than using the foot switch. The latter may be due to my deciding right from the start that I would only use the finger switch to avoid any confusion if I ride a conventional bike, so I've had little practice. This was brought home to me when I broke the finger switch in
an unfortunate incident and had to use the foot switch for a while.