Another CCS100 cruise control on the FJR1300AS (AE)

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I know some of these points may have been addressed over the months this thread has existed, but just in case:

The set button is not a set button if there is a memorized speed. It's only a coast button then. Speeding up by hand and pressing the set button has the same effect as pressing the set button without speeding up first: It drops your speed by about a half mile an hour, maybe a full mile an hour. So running at 60, speeding up to 70, pressing set, then letting go, the unit will stabilize at slightly less than 60, having had a "coast" tap.

The only way to make the set button a set button is to disengage the cruise with the brake, clutch, or power switch. Manually accelerating does not release the memorized set speed.

By experimentation some years ago I confirmed that the power-on latch is in the control pad, not the actuator.

Slow engagement is a symptom of bead chain slack. Keep in mind that even maintaining highway speed, there is not an awful lot of throttle being used, so the cable movement takes up the slack fairly quickly. It's not like the bike sits at half or 3/4 throttle all the time. If it takes too long to take up that slack, engagement is slow. If it's slow enough, the unit gives up and won't ever engage. I have confirmed this by observation on my own bike, when the clamp loosened and allowed the CC cable to droop relative to the bike's throttle cable. All I had to do to restore correct operation was properly locate the clamp and tighten it up a bit.

Little or no acceleration while holding the accel button, or failure to hold speed, is a symptom if insufficient vacuum. An accumulator, or the multi-tap system Ionbeam pointed out earlier in the thread is the answer to that.

 
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The behaviour of mine is the same as you describe.
Good to know, thanks. Walter's explanation makes perfect sense when he says Set is really Coast when you already have a set speed.

I think you'll find trimming is impractical. You might be able to knock an inch or so of the length, but the actuator is using the rubber diaphragm on the inside diameter of the case to convert air pressure to force.It won't work without complete re-engineering.
It won't really help to take anything off the length. It's the big fat girth that's the problem. If the servo unit was easier to snap apart and snap back together it might have been possible to disassemble it, put each piece behind the coolant pipe, and reassemble it in place. No such luck, though. The reason I was asking about it is that I've had to access that area several times since installing the AVCC and I'm really getting tired of removing and reinstalling the coolant pipe. One of the O-rings didn't seat properly last time and I had a nice leak to deal with.

 
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It won't really help to take anything off the length. It's the big fat girth that's the problem. If the servo unit was easier to snap apart and snap back together it might have been possible to disassemble it, put each piece behind the coolant pipe, and reassemble it in place. No such luck, though. The reason I was asking about it is that I've had to access that area several times since installing the AVCC and I'm really getting tired of removing and reinstalling the coolant pipe. One of the O-rings didn't seat properly last time and I had a nice leak to deal with.
My place is better from that point of view.

(Click on image for larger view)



But it is exposed to the weather (including stuff thrown by the rear wheel), and is just in the way when removing the wheel. I have to undo the bracket holding it to manoeuvre the wheel out and in again. No biggy, but it ain't perfect.



 
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Speaking of mounting locations, I wonder why more people don't put it under the lower right fairing, mounted up high. After I already had mine mounted behind the coolant pipe, I looked around for a good spot for the vacuum reservoir and happened to notice there's a ton of room on the right side, or at least it looked like there was. I strapped the (PVC pipe) vacuum canister there, with room to spare. Perhaps there's a concern about heat coming off the headers, but there's some wiring and connectors in the area, so it looks safe enough.

 
I installed the Rostra Universal Cruise Control on my 10 FJR and have been very very happy with it. Here is my write up.

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/167655-gen-ii-rostra-cruise-control-install/?hl=%2Brostra+%2Bcruise

It worked well right out of the box. I was very methodical about it, all of the wiring connections are soldered. I worked through a few iterations of throttle cable tie in, until I found a setup that made me happy.

I sourced the parts independently because of budget and option availability.

I have about 8K miles on it so far. Very Happy. I highly recommend the Rostra.

 
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