another stripped oil pan bolt

[Fred H.]

The specified torque value on the oil drain plug is (IN MY OPINION) simply incorrect and should not be used. Normally drain plugs on aluminum drain pans get torqued to around 18-20 ft/lbs, (not 31 as the manual states).

If you use the 31 ft/lb number you will sooner or later strip out the threads. That torque number is beyond the thread strength of the drain pan threads.

It only takes about 15 ft/lbs of force to make a new sealing washer conform to the surface of the pan and bolt. They are by nature very soft so that you don't need a huge amount of force to get a seal.

The problem is not from the use of a torque wrench, but instead from Yamaha specifying the wrong value. You can safely use a torque wrench on this bolt if you set it to 20 ft lbs.

 

[T120TT]

Yikes :bigeyedsmiley: Tourqe wrench on the filter scares me 'cause you know most guys don't calibrate those things. Seal contact to hand tight then 1/4 turn. seems like it's worked that way forever
:jester:

I always tighten the oil filter by hand in my bikes and cars. I've never had a problem. I tighten it just enough that I'm just able to remove it by hand as well. Oil filter wrench? Don't need no stinkin' oil filter wrench!

 

[T120TT]

FWIW --
Looks like I'm the odd-ball on this one...

I use a torque wrench for the filter cartridge and the drain bolt (and any other fasteners).

I use the torque specified in the manual.

I have never had a problem.

(I also check the calibration of my torque wrenches.)

How do you check the calibration of a torque wrench?

 

[Fred H.]

How do you check the calibration of a torque wrench?

You simply set your torque wrench to 31 ft/lbs and tighten your oil drain plug. If the threads in the oil pan strip out, the torque wrench is right on calibration.

 

[bem136]

Very sorry to hear about this kind of problem for a new FJR owner.

FredH...I agree, Yamaha needs to review the spec's. If V65 is correct about torque spec's being "dry" spec's, it should be obvious to Yamaha that for oil drain plugs you need to use a lubricated spec. With other issues showing up in the motor mounting bolt area, a comprehensive review of torque spec's appear to be in order.

Regards,

B

 

[squeezer]

How do you check the calibration of a torque wrench?

You simply set your torque wrench to 31 ft/lbs and tighten your oil drain plug. If the threads in the oil pan strip out, the torque wrench is right on calibration.

:lol: :lol: :lol:

 

[v65]

[begin hijack]

How do you check the calibration of a torque wrench?

Method 1: Send it off to a private company for calibration. Snap On reps can handle it if you know one, there is also a board member that works for a calibration company, a separate post might get there attention.

Method 2

Legal Disclaimer - I have never tried method 2 myself, put there for the sake of thoroughness.

[end hijack]

 

[Windblown]

Man, sorry to hear about that. On the bright side you didn't loose the bolt while going down the road!

You NEED a torque wrench for head bolts & bearing caps (of all types). Other than that I rarely pick up a torque wrench.

A torque wrench is a great tool. But between cheap out of spec ones and operator misuse, their use can lead to disaster by the very same folks that would pick one up to do an oil change. (no offense intended)

The good news is that after a couple of stripped bolts one develops a sense of feel for when a bolt is tight enough (or getting too damn tight)

 

[Feejer/Weejer man]

Its too bad Yamaha practices this tightening method. My 03 was torque hard and I barely broke it loose. Plus the oil filter was on way toooo tight. On the other hand my FZ1 in 2001 was what I would consider normal. And the least expensive bike, my new Suzuki V-Strom DL650 is maybe the easiest bike I have owned to change the oil and filter. Very easy the first change to remove the filter and drain bolt.

 

[Mogambo]

FWIW --
Looks like I'm the odd-ball on this one...

I use a torque wrench for the filter cartridge and the drain bolt (and any other fasteners).

I use the torque specified in the manual.

I have never had a problem.

(I also check the calibration of my torque wrenches.)

I've done the same as you and never had a problem.