Any problems likely w/ignition security going back to oem TTC?

[blakmambo]

Folks:

Been struggling for the last while trying to find joy with my 09er .. . for a number of reasons . . . thanks to @BanjoBoy I got a PCFC installed and that has smoothened the "glitchy" EFI mapping to a large extent, but I think the torque hit while accelerating is "heavy" and rough for this getting older rider to get used to.  The PO had changed the top triple clamp or seemingly Yamaha calls it the "crown" to the Heli-bar Tour Performance which seems to "lift" the bar mount by "leveling" the mounting bolt area, so that rather than following the line of the forks as it normally would, it's kicked up in the back and it makes for a higher bar, but also canting it forward, rather than bringing the bars back . . . .

And that makes it feel like I am a "sail" when trying to do highway speeds, like I'm literally going to blow off the bike and so forth . . . so I'd like to improve the bar position . . . on my long lived 86 Konk I went to a Storz bar conversion and put a real handlebar on it, but that entailed lengthening the upper brake line . . . .  In this case I don't want to get into messing with the brake lines, as there are so many of them . . . so my thinking is to try to go back to the OEM crown and hopefully all of the lines will just move forward w/o issues and the canted forward riding position might be better for dealing with the power hit of the honking 1300 . . . ???  But, don't know if that will weight the old wrists too much, my riding is not LD at all any more so I'm hoping to just bolt on in my back yard.

I've brought this topic up before here and somebody mentioned some issues with ignition security when trying to pull the OEM TTC, like they have it installed in a way that requires "special tools" or special knowledge . . . but in this case I believe a dealer switched out the OEM TTC and installed the Heli-bar TTC item . . . and it only looks like there is a bolt/nut from next to both sides of the ignition reversing up into the "crown" with then some allenhead bolts threading into the verts  from the front to hold them securely--that possibly if the handlebars themselves were dropped out of the way could be a 10mm socket or openend wrench could deal with????

Awhile back I tried to find YT videos on "removing and installing FJR OEM crown" . . . but it didn't seem like there were any showing up?  Is this something best left to the pros, has to be a dealer, or since the OEM crown is out already, should be easy enough to do for a shady tree mechanic . . . no problems dealing with the ignition switch housing going back to OEM crown??

 

[escapefjrtist]

Going from the Heli aftermarket triple clamp to stock *should* be a simple operation.

You're right, to remove the stock clamp the security bolts for the ignition switch need to be removed. This involves center punching the heads and then drilling to remove said heads. After the switch is removed, the remaining studs are removed with vice grips. On re-installation, one normally uses a comparable socket head cap bolt to secure the switch.

Unless the PO ordered and installed the security bolts it's a simple swap. Do you have the stock clamp with wire looms and ignition bezel?

~G

 

[blakmambo]

Going from the Heli aftermarket triple clamp to stock *should* be a simple operation.

You're right, to remove the stock clamp the security bolts for the ignition switch need to be removed. This involves center punching the heads and then drilling to remove said heads. After the switch is removed, the remaining studs are removed with vice grips. On re-installation, one normally uses a comparable socket head cap bolt to secure the switch.

Unless the PO ordered and installed the security bolts it's a simple swap. Do you have the stock clamp with wire looms and ignition bezel?

~G

@escapefjrtist:

Thanks kindly for the reply, didn't get an email on it even though "notify me of replies" was ticked . . . .   And that sounds like what was said before about the problems with getting the security bolts out . . . I could ask the PO, but he's an older guy and doubt he would even remember, I do have all of his work orders . . . which wasn't a whole lot of work done in his 5-6 yrs of ownership, it was his second bike with a Wing as the LD ride.  A couple years back I asked him if he had the stock TTC and he said he didn't . . . so I would have to get it myself.  I did see something on a YT video where they were going to the Heli-bar or some other adapter where the stock "bars" were being used, where they removed the wire looms, and in my case they are gone as well, so I didn't think about how I might need them back if I was going to return to stock set-up . . . and I don't know what the "ignition bezel" is . . . so I didn't think about needing that??

I'm sort of looking for "quick n dirty" "solution" to the problem of what I term as "mini ape hangers" that the Tour-Performance adapters provide, yes, the arms/hands/elbows are higher, but at a weird angle . . . .  Best option would be to go to steel handlebar, but I think I'd have to break into lines and change other stuff . . . just don't want to throw bucks at it.  I'm hoping that just going back to stock will get the bike back to the "as designed sporty sport tour" seat position . . . for the least dollars as possible.  Do I need the wire looms an/or ignition bezel to make the OEM TTC operational, or just to bring it back to completely "OEM"?? 

 

[escapefjrtist]

The cable / hose loom includes movable studs and captured nuts that attach each handlebar to the stock clamp. While it wouldn’t be impossible to use a normal bolt and nut for the bars, it would be a PITA. The bezel around the ignition switch is just a trim piece. Switch can be installed in the stock clamp w/o it but there would be a larger gap surrounding it. 

New, the clamp is expensive. Check eBay for a used clamp w/loom and you’d be set. Search for “FJR triple clamp” and you’re bound to find one. I’ve seen several for sale there. If I wasn’t on this damn iPad I’d hunt one up for you. 

If you have more questions ask away!

~G

 

[blakmambo]

The cable / hose loom includes movable studs and captured nuts that attach each handlebar to the stock clamp. While it wouldn’t be impossible to use a normal bolt and nut for the bars, it would be a PITA. The bezel around the ignition switch is just a trim piece. Switch can be installed in the stock clamp w/o it but there would be a larger gap surrounding it. 

New, the clamp is expensive. Check eBay for a used clamp w/loom and you’d be set. Search for “FJR triple clamp” and you’re bound to find one. I’ve seen several for sale there. If I wasn’t on this damn iPad I’d hunt one up for you. 

If you have more questions ask away!

~G

@escapefjrtist:

OK, well that is interesting about the studs and captured nuts in the stock clamp . . . the Heli-Bar is using the stock "bar" and seems to have positioning studs with a bolt holding them in place, but I haven't taken them apart yet, and have no idea how that differs from the stock set up, i.e., if any parts were transferred over, or Heli supplies their parts and so the dealer just took all of the OEM stuff and put it up on eBay way back when they did the work on it.  So, OK, well I'll shop around on that end and see what shows up.  A lot of times I just use ronayers rather than depend upon a used seller supplying all of the parts, or not . . . but maybe between the two options might be a reasonable solution.

I see you've got a newer Super T . . . how does that compare to the FJR as an All-rounder road/canyon bike?  No comparo, apples to oranges?  Or comparable??

 

[escapefjrtist]

Heli would supply the replacement clamp and installation hardware only. Depending on which Heli clamp is on your bike, the bars could be slightly adjustable for position. With what I call the original Heli clamp, the bars are fixed and set in angle & position with two small locating studs on the bars. On the later Heli clamp, the bars are higher and adjustable in position similar to stock clamp. I've had both. I found the original Heli clamp to be very comfortable.

Until a couple weeks ago I had a '12 Tenere. Then the '18 came up at a *too good to pass up* price. Both bikes nicely compliment the other. Tenere is lighter handling at slow speeds and tighter roads. Canyon carver, you bet. Very comfortable to ride distances although wind protection isn't as good as FJR. I have the Tenere set up as my rough road touring machine. FJR is my ICBM!

~G

 

[blakmambo]

@escapefjrtist:

Thanks for the follow up . . . I think this Heli deal allows for three positions, in a front to back aspect, but not the angle, which I would like the angle of the bars to be "narrower" like I have with a steel handlebar on my Konk, but not to be with this clamp.  Other posters have mentioned a TTC where there are slotted grooves to allow the bars to be pulled in on the ends, but then they complained about "vibration" through the bars . . . which I wouldn't enjoy . . . .

Thanks for the reply on the Super T . . . I see you have an IBA number, I've got a fair number of miles under my belt, but these days I'm down on long rides and just doing local canyon type riding, the Super T might be an alternative, but the EFI on the 09 FJR was so bad, don't know if I'd go for another CA Yammie . . . the stock mapping is so bad, the PCFC was required, not optional, etc.

 

[art miller]

I have a triple clamp from a 07 that is in like new condition. I do not have the loom, bezel or fasteners. You can have the Triple clamp for the price of shipping. If interested send me an email with your address and I will get shipping cost.  My email address;  [email protected]  

 

[blakmambo]

I have a triple clamp from a 07 that is in like new condition. I do not have the loom, bezel or fasteners. You can have the Triple clamp for the price of shipping. If interested send me an email with your address and I will get shipping cost.  My email address;  [email protected]  

@art miller:

OK, well that sounds reasonable . . . jammed at the moment, prolly will go for it, but I don't know how difficult it will be to find the fasteners, which appear to be important . . . .  I'm down in LA, so it shouldn't be too extraordinarily expense to get it here . . . .

 

[art miller]

@art miller:

OK, well that sounds reasonable . . . jammed at the moment, prolly will go for it, but I don't know how difficult it will be to find the fasteners, which appear to be important . . . .  I'm down in LA, so it shouldn't be too extraordinarily expense to get it here . . . .

No problem.  If you decide to use it just let me know. Is LA Los Angels or Louisiana??  

 

[blakmambo]

No problem.  If you decide to use it just let me know. Is LA Los Angels or Louisiana??  

We say, "Los Angeles" down here in LA . . . I think "Los Angels" is down in DF Mexico, no??? or in the Baja somewhere???  : - ))))))

PS:  Looking at the ronayers fiche for a minute, I was thinking like, "Well I don't need no stinkin looms" . . . figuring that I'd have to break the lines somewhere to feed them through the wire loom and I didn't want to do that, but it looks like the base of the loom is what contains the male positioning bolt and where the smaller bolt threads into from above . . . so it looks like that piece would be required to get the stock TTC to work?  not entirely a cheap piece to obtain . . . plus bolts and nuts . . . not a cheap hobby . . . .

 

[escapefjrtist]

Lone Star (Stadium) Yamaha shows the adjuster at $58.01. To reinstall the adjuster w/o splitting any wiring or hoses, use a cut off wheel and split the looms where needed. Once the wiring / hoses are back in position, use a short length of vacuum line to bridge the cut loom. Only person that knows it's there is you. 

Looked at ebay, there's several clamps available. Happy hunting!

~G

 

[blakmambo]

Lone Star (Stadium) Yamaha shows the adjuster at $58.01. To reinstall the adjuster w/o splitting any wiring or hoses, use a cut off wheel and split the looms where needed. Once the wiring / hoses are back in position, use a short length of vacuum line to bridge the cut loom. Only person that knows it's there is you. 

Looked at ebay, there's several clamps available. Happy hunting!

~G

@escapefjrtist:

Thanks for the link, that is a few bucks cheaper than ronayers . . . precerate the thoughts on cutting the loom wires and then re-joining them, etc.

 

[blakmambo]

Lone Star (Stadium) Yamaha shows the adjuster at $58.01. To reinstall the adjuster w/o splitting any wiring or hoses, use a cut off wheel and split the looms where needed. Once the wiring / hoses are back in position, use a short length of vacuum line to bridge the cut loom. Only person that knows it's there is you. 

Looked at ebay, there's several clamps available. Happy hunting!

~G

@escapefjrtist:

Thinking on this "adjuster loom" thing a bit more, looking at the fiche I can see what the "adjuster" is doing to be part of the "sandwich" for the TTC and the bars . . . right now the Heli-bar adapter has seemingly removed the adjuster?? and there at least are no "looms" looming in the picture, possibly not needed because of the raising the bars or bringing them "back" a bit . . . ??

But, if I'm going to the trouble to cut into the looms to stuff the cables and such through there . . . any reason to not just cut the wire looms off the adjuster entirely, rather than breaking into them in a place that hopefully wouldn't cause a "kink" or interfere with turning the bars, or wear/rub on the cables . . . just slice them out . . . nice and tidy????

Since I haven't checked out to know if the OEM are bar position is "rideable" for the aging wrists, I don't know if this OEM switch will be just a bus stop along the way . . . or the "final destination" . . . but question is whether the looms are "required equipment" for the OEM set up, or . . . just getting in the way of change??

 

[escapefjrtist]

I wouldn't do it with the OE bars since the looms capture the controls and keep them routed properly. With a couple correctly placed zip-ties, the looms could be removed, but, make sure nothing hangs up on bar sweep... It's your bike...YMMV

~G

 

[RossKean]

I had to cut the looms to install Genmar risers.  I made sure the cut edges were smooth and left the looms in place.  The wire is stiff and it still functions to hold everything where it should.  As per escapefjrtist said, zip ties could work but the looms WILL work to prevent stuff getting caught up or pinched.

 

[blakmambo]

@escapefjrtist && @RossKean :

Thanks for the replies, got it, yep in an ideal world perhaps the looms are a good thing; in the present case with the Tour Performance TTC the looms are not evident, so somehow the stock bars and cables sitting on that device are doing OK w/o the looms . . . .  I'll have to look again to confirm that it is a "loom free" condition right now, but 75% sure that the looms are not present . . . .

 

[blakmambo]

No problem.  If you decide to use it just let me know. Is LA Los Angels or Louisiana??  

@art miller:

TTC arrived quickly and cheaply and in good condition, as promised . . . precerate it.

 

[blakmambo]

Gents:

Took a few minutes to mess with the handlebar/TTC issue on the 09er this morning, some of it seems like "shade tree mechanic" do-able, but possibly a couple of things might exceed my capacity/tool resources . . . . 

Is there any special tool or special knowledge that goes into getting the two "vertical" bolts that are holding the ignition switch in place?  They drop out from the bottom and I have no lift to be able to get like a three foot extender to come up from below, etc.  I'm thinking it is allen head, rather than regular bolt/nut that could get to it via open-end wrench, but I tried a few things, like the variable?? adapter that would let the angle of the allensocket flex to get into the smallish allen bolt; but on either side there are either issues with no room for wrench handle to swing, or going with regular allen keys also problems getting enough room to rotate the wrenches?? with all of the cables/hoses in the way . . . possibly dropping the bars first might improve the access??  Don't have all of the parts yet so I don't want to go for broke just yet.

Or, is this a matter of removing the upper/inner fairing pieces to give enough room to rotate wrench or keys??  Or, is that beyond shade-tree level tools and the pros have some techniques to get those two bolts out?  Looks like they are held in place by two other bolts from the front to lock the verts . . . .

And, then in the other, possibly beyond my tool capacity, the large nut that is sitting on the steering head bearing assembly . . . it looks like that requires a large socket to remove . . . a 36mm??? socket . . . i.e., it the case of the HeliBar TTC the two mounting platforms seem to be so high that a crescent wrench wouldn't work to loosen it up???  And then if I can find such a socket, is that essentially a decorative nut that doesn't interfere with steering head bearing adjustment?  Or, messing with that nut will have some effect on the bearing adjustment?

I'm trying to get some idea if I am out of my depth . . . seems like some parts of it are "easy-peasy" but other parts might take special skills &/or tools to get it done.

TIA