Anyone use the rear brake?

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Constant Mesh

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During a rear tire change on my 40K mile '04 non-ABS FJR I checked the brake pads for wear. Both pads had about 5 mm remaining from the original 5.8 mm -- I've only used 14% of the pads in 40K miles.

If I had ABS I might have 90% left -- I can recall locking the rear wheel with the brake on only one or two occasions.

That may help explain how I got 11.9K miles from the Strada rear tire I just removed. But the quality of gear shifts, matching the engine speed with the gears while shifting, driveline abruptness, etc. likely affect the rear tire wear far more than braking. Don't want to hear any tire chirping unless it's from an aggressive throttle.

 
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All my previous bikes I own, have been used rear brake very seldom, mostly on the traffic light. On the FJR (Gen II) using rear brake a lot. Every time

I have to do a little corrections I use rear brake. Rear brake on the Gen II FJR is linked with one set of the brake pads on

the front wheel. I found it great because during braking with rear brake, bike remains stable and of course ABS is preventing

wheel to lock so there is no any danger to use a rear brake.

 
I use it a lot more than I did on my FJ1200 :rolleyes:

I still find myself tapping the front first but try and use both equally on around town or relaxed riding.

Coming from bikes with "Flintstones" brake design, I find the FJR's brakes very good.

Never owned a real sport bike though so maybe I don't really know good brakes. :unsure:

 
I don't think I've ever used the rear brake on any of my bikes enough to ever need to replace the pads.

 
...everytime I stop. Use them both equally as it provides the most stopping power. The single cylinder that is linked to the rear brake does help with stability, but both brakes are needed to use the brakes to their fullest. What you do day-to-day is what you are going to do in a panic situation... just something to think about. :unsure:

 
Normally, I use them roughly evenly....however I find myself using the rear more when running elevated speeds when I hear the beep from my V1. You know that notion....stab the rear brake to slow you down, but don't have the nose dip unnecessarily. ;)

 
I too try to use them evenly. As Duff says...what you're used to doing, is what you'll do in an emergency. I also hate the nose dive, and always makes the passenger's helmet hit me in the back. For some reason, the rear brake doesn't do that.

 
I used to use the rear brake a fair amount, but it squeaks when I do so I quit using for the most part. Bike only has a little over 5K on it, don't know why it would squeal.

 
I use both all the time. +1 on Duff''s "emergency" thought. I actually start with the rear for routine slow downs like stop lights, signs and maintaining my safety gap in traffic.

Greg

 
Don't normally use it. I quit having "Awe ****" moments in the twisties when I quit using the rear.

 
What ever Duff said. 100% braking power comes only from using BOTH brakes. You can achieve this 100% of the time if you use BOTH of them 100% of the time. It is a specially true for the Awe **** moments.

Don't normally use it. I quit having "Awe ****" moments in the twisties when I quit using the rear.
You were having those only because you were not using rear brake properly.

I rode cruisers, sport bikes, and now this. Rear brake application is different on each one, but it is still a vital part of stopping. One must spend lots of time learning the use of each to e able to use 100% of the braking power. Anything less then use of BOTH brakes properly is a recipe for disaster.

 
It is my understanding that with a conventional braking system (i.e. non-linked), optimum braking is gained from 80% on the front with 20% on the rear. With that in mind, I try to do that every single time I slow down. My goal is to build a habit so that when the 'OH ****!!!!' moment happens, I will automatically apply the very best braking possible.

This is for good traction conditions though. If the surface is iffy, the braking has to be more gentle and with a bit more rear brake.

I have been told, by friends who ride cruisers that they stay away from the front brake because it can throw you over the handlebars and kill you. The theory must work because I've never yet seen a HD do a stoppie. (I've also read statistics about how accidents may have been avoided if the rider had used both brakes rather than 'laying her down'.)

Jill

 
These things have REAR brakes too?? Man, what will they think of next! :yahoo:

On topic: both my FJR's had/have ABS -- so, stomp (and grab), stay, steer.... in emergencies.

On non-ABS bikes, rarely.

 
I find the rear brake much more effective on the FJR than on any of my other bikes (first ABS bike I've owned too).

I normally apply both at the same time, but playing with the FJR's brakes I find that after the initial 50/50 application, adding more rear brake significantly increases stopping power much more that it did on my old bikes. Of course, adding more front always adds more stopping power, I was just surprised at the slowing speed given with the rear brake.

I should add that the FJRs brakes are by far the best on any bike I have owned, the most recent being a 1999 Triumph Sprint ST.

 
I too try to use them evenly. As Duff says...what you're used to doing, is what you'll do in an emergency. I also hate the nose dive, and always makes the passenger's helmet hit me in the back. For some reason, the rear brake doesn't do that.
The rear brake on my Shadow squealed like a mofo. I pulled it off and put some of that brake pad lube from Autozone on the little shim on the back of the pad, no more squeal. Easy fix, cost < $1 and took < 5 min.

 
I usually use both brakes, unless doing slow manouvers, then rear only.

As for proportion on each, on a non-ABS bike in particular, the proportion for each depends on the conditions.

1) Before braking, you can apply the rear brake fairly hard, but not the front until weight transfer has loaded the front tyre.

2) If the road surface is perfect, as you approach doing a stoppie, the rear brake will make the rear wheel lose traction (no weight on it).

3) If the road surface is slippery, the proportion of front brake gets less, but neither brake can be used as hard (it's all to do with the proportion of weight over each tyre).

4) In a corner, the dynamics get very complicated. Minor speed correction can use either, but I tend to find the front keeps things more stable. But, if riding aggressively, the rear can aid stability (I said it was complicated). But the harder you are cornering the less braking you can do (and vicar versa).

[censored]5) If you ride an HD, your brakes aren't very good anyway. [/censored]

Whatever the proportions used, you want neither brake to lock a wheel, so for hardest braking you have to modulate each for best result. Specifically, hit the rear brake first, followed fractionally by squeezing the front lever (in practice, start your squeeze as you push down on the brake pedal). As the bike starts to slow, continue to squeeze the front harder, with full squeeze within a second of starting to brake, meanwhile release the pressure on the rear brake as the weight transfers. This is especially important if the bike isn't absolutely upright (as I once found out to my cost).

In an emergency, there's a consensus of opinion that says don't bother with the rear brake, concentrate on keeping the front brake on the verge of skidding (I could do this after a lot of practice on my non-ABS Trophy under most conditions). Since the rear brake is doing little to slow you, any benefit you would get from it would be lost from your not concentrating wholly on the front. Things are a little different on a slippery surface where a higher proportion of what braking is available is from the rear ('cos you don't get as much weight transfer because you can't decelerate as quickly).

And, if you do lock the rear wheel while braking hard, consensus suggests riding it to a standstill without releasing the rear brake, or risk a high-side (unless your name is Rossi).

As a final thought, how do you tell you are applying 80/20 (or whatever) front/rear? I think we get confused with being told that that is what each brake can achieve as a proportion of available deceleration, as opposed to how hard we squeeze the lever or push down on the pedal.

Anyway, I'm now very happy with my ABS. It's probably saved my bacon more than once. I'd still like to know what happens if you brake hard in a corner, or conversely steer while braking. I'm too chicken to experiment :sadsmiley02: .

 
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I use both most of the time but shy away from the rear breaks in the twisties. The linked breaking system is nice and always feels stable but sometime I wish I had full control over the front and rear when riding "Aggresively" I recently took the AZ motorcycle endorcement test. I've been riding for ever, but never got an endorsement. I took the written then had to go out to the course and do some manuvers. One of the things you do is show that you can control the bike durring a hard breaking situation. The have you run the bike up to 20mph, then at a mark in the road you slam the breaks. Your supposed to shid and keep the bike straight. About 5 feet ahead there is a second mark and they expect you to skid past the mark, keep the bike straight and stop within about 10 feet of the second mark. Well, that is one outdated test! The feej with the antilock breaks, at 20 mph stopped instantly. I think within 12 inches. The tester insisted that I keep trying and didnt get that the bike has anti lock breaks and would not skid. Eventually, after I tryed it at 40mph they just said forget it.

 
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