Audiovox CCS-100 fail, need help

[dcarver]

..quit working on KrZy8 after years of use.

Replaced pad switch with NOS.
Checked ground, SAT.
Vacuum tank has integrity, no leaks.
Vacuum port has vacuum (inlet port).
Replaced main unit with NOS.

Voltages are:

10 pin connector
BLACK - ground. 0.1 ohms measured
RED - 12VDC always --> Key on, 11.6, 12.3 battery
BROWN - +12 ignition on, CC On --> 12.1, 12.3 battery
PURPLE - +12 brakes on. 10.1, battery 12.1 brakes on. Brakes off .18 VDC
GREEN - +12 Set/Coast pressed. 0 VDC off. 12.2 pressed, batt 12.4. 0 VDC released.
YELLOW - +12 Resume/Acc pressed. 12.1, batt 12.3 pressed. 0 VDC released.
BLUE - ACV increase with engine RPM, red diagnostic LED blinks faster. --> Red light illuminates at cranking rpm, no start condition. (Pulse signal from coil)
GREY - Vehicle Speed Sensor - not used

Any ideas?

Any ideas guys?

 

[dcarver]

Not much help here it seems

2022-02-17 More Cruise Control Work​

1. Installed NOS control switch. Red B+ wired jumpered to Gray (Parking) wire so backlight LED's are on and the center LED illuminates when Power switch is activated.
   
   
2. Installed new control unit and servo, NOS, as a 'unit'.
   
   
3. Installed NOS wiring harnesses and connectors. Ran ground directly back to Blue Seas fuse block.
   
   
4. Took voltage measurements, all looks good
   1. Called AudioVox support (1-800-645-4994 option 4) to clarify Green wire position 8, 'Closed Circuit Test'. My voltage readings were backwards on this test... 0 VDC unpressed, 12.2 VDC pressed. Turns out AudioVox used two separate switch systems, the 'open' switch us motobikers use and a 'closed' switch used on some autos. The 'Closed Circuit Test' isn't applicable for my use.
      
5. Left the Blue wire, tach pulse from coil, available for testing later. To test, look at the diagnostic LED on the PCB. The cover has to be off to see it. I could not test and look at LED as the servo sits ahead of the water pipe manifold. Meaning I had to install the servo wire cover, place it where it needs to be, then install water pipe manifold and gas tank.
   
   But, if it still doesn't work, I can access the Blue wire with ACV voltmeter. ACV should rise with RPM. I did crank the engine with tank off, and the LED did illuminate, but seemed like it stayed on and I didn't want spin the starter motor longer than needed.
   
   
6. Tested the vaccuum check valve, it appears to be SAT.
   
   
7. NOTE - after starting the bike, I later removed the vacuum line and it 'hissed' at me indicating it had a good vaccuum 'trapped'?
   
   
8. Read on another forum some guys had problems with 1 of the 3 vaccuum servo motors sticking. A little light oil, like 3n1, cleared the issue for them.

Tomorrow will button everything up for a test hit on Saturday.

I wonder if the CC can be engaged and tested on the centerstand?

 

[Panman]

Your doing good diagnostics Don, quit scaring me as I have one to install at home.

 

[FJRJayke]

No, you can't test the CCS-100 on the centerstand. You need to ride the bike. With the cruise on, the red LED should flash faster as RPM's increase.

 

[FJRJayke]

Here's a troubleshooting guide I wrote for Murph at Murphs Kits years ago that you might find helpful.

 

[dcarver]

Thanks for the post FJRJayke, appreciate the write-up. Am I to ASSume Murph no longer sells a true control system?

 

[FJRJayke]

Correct. The molds for the CCS-100 finally wore out 4-5 years ago and the manufacturer had to stop making them.

 

[SnowAviation]

Thanks for the file, tips, and motivations. I installed my CCS-100 back in 2010 and it recently stopped working. I think mice may be the real problem but with some documentation in hand I'm about ready to tackle it.