audiovox cruise

[just roy]

just a few pictures of my install i did a few things different from other installs i had seen. i removed all unused wires and shortened all wires by cutting and soldering and heat shrinking to keep the rats nests out. i installed the servo in the middle of the tray to keep the cable as straight as possible this allows it to go in between the two mounting screws for the tank stay. i had to grind two small holes in the tray to get the servo to sit all the way down and flat.

this shot shows the cable routing

this shows how i mounted the end. this allows a straight shot and i didn't have to use any chain. i just bolted on the mount inserted the cable end and put a short length of heat shrink around it to keep it from coming out.

this shot shows the wiring. its in the loom with the brown tape. i ran everything up this side to keep it away from the plug wires which all run to the other side.

more details of the wiring. it also shows the cable zip tied to the coolant pipe.

i put a relay and all my connections except the tach under the tray.

this is just the way i chose to do it based on my experience. everyone has different opinions and problems. after running the cruise i didn't like the way it pulled the throttle back and forth and i kept finding myself hindering the cruise by holding the throttle against the servo. so i chose to disconnect the return cable. i have put over 2000 miles without any problems after putting the heat shrink on the cable end. if any one would like more pictures or has any questions feel free to ask. i ran the cruise all the way down and back from EOM and so far a haven't needed a reservoir even with all the hills.

 

[spalkin]

That is one clean install! And the cleanest bike I've ever seen, period. (oh, I just read, it's brand new!)

I've wondered about the interference you can cause by holding the throttle. I see that disconnecting the return would solve that.

There are plenty of springs to bring the throttle back and in any case you always have the kill switch.

Where did you put the vacuum reservoir? I didn't think I saw anything about that part.

Also, can you explain the fabricated piece that holds the actuator cable at the throttle?

Thanks for the great write-up and some of the best pictures I've seen in a post!

 

[BobOdenweller]

I'm considering adding the Audiovox cruise to my new bike. How about a picture of where you mounted the control panel. Thanks!

 

[radman]

I've considered removing the push cable, but until now had no ones experience to get me over the "what if" hump. Your story had me taking it off Saturday, and damn if the throttle doesn't work smoother, and no more possessed throttle grip when cruise is engaged. Thanks for the r&d!

 

[just roy]

I've considered removing the push cable, but until now had no ones experience to get me over the "what if" hump. Your story had me taking it off Saturday, and damn if the throttle doesn't work smoother, and no more possessed throttle grip when cruise is engaged. Thanks for the r&d!

radman, was that thing a bitch to get off or what. when i took it off i prayed it would work so that i didn't have to remove all the throttle bodies to put it back.

 

[just roy]

That is one clean install! And the cleanest bike I've ever seen, period. (oh, I just read, it's brand new!)
I've wondered about the interference you can cause by holding the throttle. I see that disconnecting the return would solve that.

There are plenty of springs to bring the throttle back and in any case you always have the kill switch.

Where did you put the vacuum reservoir? I didn't think I saw anything about that part.

Also, can you explain the fabricated piece that holds the actuator cable at the throttle?

Thanks for the great write-up and some of the best pictures I've seen in a post!

i didn't use a reservoir. i tested it in some very hilly riding going to EOM and i had no problems. if i ever do i will make a small round one and install it under the front of the servo where the tool kit used to be.

as for the throttle piece do you mean the standoff that holds the cable housing or the piece that holds the cable end ball?

 

[radman]

I've considered removing the push cable, but until now had no ones experience to get me over the "what if" hump. Your story had me taking it off Saturday, and damn if the throttle doesn't work smoother, and no more possessed throttle grip when cruise is engaged. Thanks for the r&d!

radman, was that thing a bitch to get off or what. when i took it off i prayed it would work so that i didn't have to remove all the throttle bodies to put it back.

Actually, wasn't bad once I created a tool to help. A piece of 3/8 diameter aluminum rod, about 8" long, with a slot cut on one end and a v-notch leading into it was able to guide the cable out of the slot in the tab. And if you decide to install a reservoir, use Wix fuel filter 3028, or NAPA 33028. Sized just right for sitting in the tray with the servo.

 

[johnny80s]

I'm considering adding the Audiovox cruise to my new bike. How about a picture of where you mounted the control panel. Thanks!

Check out the skyway mount for the control pad. Do a search for audiovox site:fjrforum.com and you should get tons of hits.

 

[radman]

I'm considering adding the Audiovox cruise to my new bike. How about a picture of where you mounted the control panel. Thanks!

Check out the skyway mount for the control pad. Do a search for audiovox site:fjrforum.com and you should get tons of hits.

An alternative to the pricey (and maybe controversial) Skyway mount is the Murphs kit mount that I use-

Only $28, and works just fine.

Murph's Kits

 

[just roy]

i have a block of aluminum that i plan to make a mount similar to the skyway mount out of. it gives me a reason to play with my tools. now i have it mounted on a piece of sheet metal right above the windshield switch and i really like it there. the mount just looks cheesy i slapped it out quick the day before EOM. i can't believe he can sell that for $28 it will cost me near that to get mine powder coated.

 

[wfooshee]

I stuck my panel down on the fairing with double-sided tape. Yes, I had to put a hole there. So what? There's a control panel covering it up. And I didn't have to run a bundle of wires up to the handlebar. The running light is close by for keyed power for the built-in lamp, also. You have to let go of the bar to operate it, but not for very long, and with summer gloves it's no problem operating by feel, don't need to look at it. Bulky gloves make it more difficult, but I don't think that's any different from up on the grip. And since this picture was taken I wrappes the bundle with black tape so it doens't show between the tank and fairing the way it does here.

 

[BrunDog]

Of course, it is your bike, and you do what you like with it...

...but something tells me that removing the return cable with the AVCC installed is a baaaaaad idea.

-BD

 

[spalkin]

Hey Roy; I meant the standoff that holds the cable housing, but I'm all straight on that. This question of disconnecting the return side of the throttle is perfect for eliminating the fighting against the cruise. I don't see a problem with it, like I said, there are several springs down there trying to close it. Cars don't have push/pull throttles but with bikes it's all about safety.

Is there a possibility of inadvertently un-linking either side of the cable if you put too much slack to it?

Has anyone experienced some of the high end factory cruises? If so, do they release the throttle grip or stay linked?

 

[just roy]

not just cars don't have dual cables a lot of motorcycles don't have them. my nighthawk 750 has had the cable broken for over 10 years. if anyone has any actual negative experience with this i would be glad to hear it.

 

[jasonhc73]

not just cars don't have dual cables a lot of motorcycles don't have them. my nighthawk 750 has had the cable broken for over 10 years. if anyone has any actual negative experience with this i would be glad to hear it.

I'm still trying to understand what the point of the other cable(AKA B cable) is actually for. The return springs are on the throttle and all the tension is on the A cable. My 80 Honda has dual cables and it the B cable rotted out, but the springs on the carb made it return every time. I guess in those rare moments when you want to close the throttle faster than the springs will close it you can ram the throttle closed and the B cable will pull the throttle closed!

Not to get tooo way off topic....

Where is your vacuum line setup?

 

[just roy]

Jason my vacuum comes off the #2 throttle body where you attach to do sync. the hose runs aft along the wire harness on the left side. if you look in the last photo you can see it at the very top of the wire harness that goes to the ecm.

 

[Wolfhound]

Jasnohc73

The other cable is for positive throttle return so you don't have to rely on springs for return, a very positive action. Basically what you said . . .

 

[sl_1300]

Just Roy, you did a great job on that install. Now can you tell us the correct dip settings for the 08?

 

[sradek]

Don't mean to hijack the thread, but I after looking at the pic of this mount, for the first time I noticed the thread hole hiding under the plastic cap next to the reservoir on the left! What was that for? I do not see one on the right hand side.

I should have bought this mount - nice placement (instead of skyway's).

I'm considering adding the Audiovox cruise to my new bike. How about a picture of where you mounted the control panel. Thanks!

Check out the skyway mount for the control pad. Do a search for audiovox site:fjrforum.com and you should get tons of hits.

An alternative to the pricey (and maybe controversial) Skyway mount is the Murphs kit mount that I use-

Only $28, and works just fine.

Murph's Kits