Audiovox Cruise

[Yanks21]

My bike has the Audiovox Cruise installed on it, the guy I bought it from had his Yamaha shop install it, it wont hold the speed setting, I had it in the local Yamaha shop last Wednesday, and 2.5 hours of labor, everything is connected correctly,as they pulled the instructions off of our website, has power, still wont hold the speed, when I try and set it...$150 for nothing!

 

[ionbeam]

The unit won't engage at all? The unit engages but the speed varies or sags? Does the key pad light up? (Did the dealer seal the key pad?)

Do you have a DMM and are you comfortable using it? Will you troubleshoot the problem or have the dealer try again? You do have a vacuum gauge? Hmm, well actually you have 10 vacuum gauges that will be sufficient to verify vacuum, use the tip of any one of them.

Next steps will depend on answers.

If'n I were to take a wild ass guess, the root problem will most likely turn out to be the brake light connection but only good troubleshooting will tell.

 

[wfooshee]

Things that have to be in place for it to engage:

Electrical:

12 volts on the red wire to the brain unit.

0 volts on the purple wire to the brain unit. (LED brake lights or flasher kits can mess this up.)

Ground on the black wire to the brain unit.

Tach signal on the blue wire to the brain unit.

12 volts on the brown wire from the control pad.

12 volts on the green wire while the set button is pressed.

Vacuum:

Good vacuum source, at least one of the TB Sync vacuum ports tapped.

Mechanical:

Throttle cable attached to pulley, no slack in bead chain at idle, bead chain not binding.

Not engaging at all is most likely a problem with the purple wire having voltage on it, or the tach wire not being correct.

Engaging but wavering on speed is probably a vacuum problem.

 

[Yanks21]

Things that have to be in place for it to engage:

Electrical:

12 volts on the red wire to the brain unit.

0 volts on the purple wire to the brain unit. (LED brake lights or flasher kits can mess this up.)

Ground on the black wire to the brain unit.

Tach signal on the blue wire to the brain unit.

12 volts on the brown wire from the control pad.

12 volts on the green wire while the set button is pressed.

Vacuum:

Good vacuum source, at least one of the TB Sync vacuum ports tapped.

Mechanical:

Throttle cable attached to pulley, no slack in bead chain at idle, bead chain not binding.

Not engaging at all is most likely a problem with the purple wire having voltage on it, or the tach wire not being correct.

Engaging but wavering on speed is probably a vacuum problem.

 

[Yanks21]

i dont have much technical skills, when it comes to electrical, i mainly change the oil...the tech said everything was hooked up correctly, based off the diagrams he got off of the fjr site. there is power to it, as i can turn it on and off, but when i press the button to hold the speed it wont even do anything.

 

[ionbeam]

The troubleshooting section of the AVCC manual says basically what Wfooshe said, but the dealer was unable to get the unit to work with that info. I was trying to gather more exact information to set up a structured troubleshooting sequence.

I have often found that that the installer put the system together the way they interpreted the install guide, therefore they will check the system the same way. They loose some objectivity and/or the ability to step back and see the problem with fresh eyes.

The problem will most likely turn out to be the coil or the brake light. I was hoping to be able to have a check or two done to make it easy to definitively locate the problem.

=================================================

Edit: The OP supplies some more info while I was typing.

First, you have tried the cruise on the road, right? The unit will not set when on the center stand. If the rear wheel is in the air it will respond to inputs from the AVCC WAY too fast which the AVCC will see as an error and shut off.

Among the list of things that Wfooshe put out, it is critical that the AVCC purple wire has less than 0.100 volts on it. I don't often state an absolute value but in the case of the purple wire this is critical. When making the voltage measurement on the purple wire the black meter lead must go on the battery black terminal for this measurement to be accurate. The AVCC unit should be grounded to the battery, not the frame.

 

[2006FJR]

See if Smitty is in the area and can help you.

 

[FatNakedGuy]

My cruise wouldn't engage until Smitty removed the Kissan tailbrake device I had on the bike (it's signaling was disabling the cruise, not allowing it to set the speed)

 

[wfooshee]

Yeah, it seems almost anything added to the brake light circuit will keep a non-zero voltage on the AVCC's purple wire, which is why some installs will need a relay on the brake light circuit.

 

[rfulcher]

I went thru this 2 weeks ago to help a friend out.

The brake circuit can be ruled out as a problem by grounding the purple wire to the frame, if it works the problem is in the brake circuit. The cruise control will not turn off with application of brakes if you do this.

Verify a good connection for the blue wire and tach, I have had best luck by connecting the blue lead to the orange wire on the ECU plug under the left side cover with a powertap connector. Do a search on this for details.

Another approach is to simplify all the connection, a bunch . Run all positive leads (red wiresx2) directly to a wire from the battery positive post, all ground leads (black wiresx2) to a wire from the negative post of the battery. Purple wire grounded to the frame or to the negative lead from the battery. Blue wire to the orange wire on the ECU plug. Verify vacuum at the servo. Verify mechanical connection to the throttle. This connection scheme has to be turned off manually, this is not safe. If it works start connecting things properly to locate the problem. You can also verify that the connections are probably good by trying to set the cruise speed on the center stand. With the gas tank up and the end of the servo cable visible start the bike, put it in gear and let the bike run on the center stand. With the servo switched on push the set button; the servo should move or "twitch" just barely. If it does not "twitch" it will probably not work on the road since it is not trying to set speed. It twitches because it is "trying" to set speed and fails.

The mechanical connections to the throttle may need to be verified visually, in person or with photos, by someone who knows what a valid connection should look like. I have seen a couple of throttle connections that were obviously wrong and had to be revised to operate.

Recently a friend of mine, a very good guy with mechanical stuff, did a very clean install. It would not work and he checked everything and spent hours to no avail. After problem solving by replacement of stuff with known good components we narrowed it down to the main harness. Prior to rewiring the entire harness I rewired the blue lead. It worked! Hours of problem solving and the only problem was a bad connection for the blue wire to the coil lead.