Auxiliary Lighting

[Bill Lumberg]

I came from a single bulb (and even that burned out about every 6 weeks) BMW. So, suffice it to say, I've found the modern, dual headlight setup of the FJR to be wonderful. That said, I ride at night regularly, am looking at some longer trips (fingers crossed) in 2018, and, for the first time, am considering auxiliary lighting. I've perused ledrider/skene/spot/flood data until I'm cross eyed, and I'm looking for suggestions for a setup for my 2014 FJR. I'm not doing the IBR or the Alaskan haul road, but I do want quality lighting. I respectfully request your findings/experience- I'm not just figuring out what lights to buy, I am looking for no cut/splice/positap installation, what to mount 'em on, and how to control them (where the controller goes). More concerned with functionality and durability than what's purdy.

 

[08FJR4ME]

I mounted some PHOTON blasters to my high beam switch. I am in the process of putting on some secondary lights for daytime use which will turn on with the Key. This is on the 2015 bike.

On my 2008 I have LR4's mounted which throw a decent amount light for night time driving with a dimmer switch. They go full blast when the High beams are on. I have a skeene dimmer and it constantly is moving so I have to always check the position that it is in. That's why I went to a different setup on the 2015.

Dave

 

[BkerChuck]

I decided to add aux lighting when I started planning my first LD rally. I wanted to be more conspicuous to oncoming traffic and to throw more light down the road for nighttime riding particularly light on the shoulders to watch for wildlife. initially I added a pair of Twisted Throttle Denali D2D models for their small size and dual stage capability. They run at 40% power with my low beams and kick up to 100% with the highs. These are mounted with the front fender bolts and I simply zip tied the wiring to the front brake lines and install was pretty easy. They use a positap connector to splice into the required wires and I put the switch on the panel where the OEM heated grip knob would be on my '07. Nice improvement over factory lighting and under $350 when I bought them. Quality has been excellent and I added a pair to my wife's bike soon after. I noted almost immediately that fewer cars pulled out in front of me during the day and with the right side light angled slightly to display more shoulder I could see deer much sooner than in the past.

I added a pair of Clearwater Kristas during a forum group buy on under mirror mount about a year or so later. I was doing more LD rallies and just riding more in general and was finding as I age my night vision isn't what it once was. While expensive, the Clearwaters come with a very nice controller, the mounts for the FJR, and some of the best instructions I've used yet. I've since helped a friend install a Skene controller and some LED rider branded lights which work nicely but the install was definitely more involved than the Clearwater kit. If budget is a huge factor the LED rider lights are nice. I'm partial to the more expensive Clearwaters. I've had absolutely no issues with either pair of my lights beyond a connector vibrating loose this summer and I think that may have been operator related as I'd been in that area of the bike recently and likely bumped or dislodged the wires. I now added a wrap of electrical tape around that plug in connector and it's been flawless since.

 

[AZcruising]

In two words... Clearwater Lights!!! They're made in Rancho Cordova CA. Check out their website... lots of variations... bike specific mounts... quality company... founder hit a deer in the road on his FJR and came up with the idea for this product.

I have a pair of "Darla" lights that are mounted on my forks using supplied fender bolts. Comes with a dimmer switch that is mounted on my left side tupperware near the glove box. Utilize them at 25% intensity as daytime running lights. When you hit your high beam switch, they automatically come up to full power (2000 lumens apiece). Adventure bike riders usually opt for their more powerful lights.

You won't be disappointed.

 

[Canadian FJR]

I went with LD5s

These are physically big but the light output is huge. I hope to mount them on the new FJR

when it arrives.

Canadian FJR

 

[Pterodactyl]

I don't think any of these suggestions meets the "no cut/splice/positap installation, what to mount 'em on, and how to control them (where the controller goes)" standard of Bill. I do not think such an aftermarket aux light exists. Hope I'm proven wrong.

 

[Ignacio]

I am looking for no cut/splice/positap installation, what to mount 'em on, and how to control them (where the controller goes). More concerned with functionality and durability than what's purdy.

All those constraints don't really exist in my experience. That's why there are so many threads already on this subject with all sorts of scenarios you should review.

Closest I would consider are possibly some LR4 or LX3 type low amperage lights and a either a single Posi-tap into your high-beams or using a headlight extender and tapping into it. No need for a controller, but then you're guessing/hoping that there's spare capacity on the existing circuit without melting or causing premature end-of-life of your stock system. Also, already a bunch of threads on mounts and even GB type threads.

 

[BikerGeek99]

What do you want the lights to bring to the table? Seems to me that most people are looking for either:
1. Increased day-time conspicuity (dunno if that's a real word) to traffic
B. Throwing light down-range for night-time riding

If your main goal is #1 above, a lot of folks add lights to the forks, mounted on the brake caliper bolts. There are many lights out there - MotoLights, Clearwater, cheap-o Ebay specials...

If your main goal is #B above, a lot of folks add lights using brackets under the mirrors. Garauld used to make brackets, but I think he's outta the bracket game nowadays. Wynpro (AKA Dave, AKA 08FJR4ME) makes some really good brackets.

If your budget allows it, Clearwaters are very popular.

I'll tell you my aux light progression:
I tend to avoid riding at night, so my main reason for adding aux lights was for #1 above.

I started with a set of Hella FF50s mounted on Garauld's brackets. I added a marine-grade, waterproof switch from West Marine. I don't know squat aboot wiring stuff, so I put out an SOS on this forum. Richard (AKA Fairlaner) sent me his phone number and we spent a half-hour on the phone. He walked me through how to wire 'em and they worked!

I had the FF50's for a long time. Owning the far superior GenI, however, I need to actively manage my watts, and the FF50's have a bit of an electrical draw.

As LED technology has progressed, I kept an eye on LED alternatives. I woulda gone the Clearwater route, but that's bit outta my price range for a set of lights.

I wound up with a pair of LED's made by Rigid Industries.

With yamafitter's help, we swapped out the FF50s for the Rigid lights at Tech Day a few years ago.

On the ride home from Tech Day, it became apparent to me that the Rigid lights are heavier than the FF50s. They vibrated a LOT on Garauld's brackets.

I got a hold of Dave and he whipped up a pair of his brackets for me.

And that's what I have as of now. I would like to add a pulse-width-modulator (AKA a dimmer for LEDs), but according to Rigid, the lights I have a not dimmable. I dunno. I've got a PWM laying around but haven't bothered to mess with it.

So, for your requirements:
1. No cut / splice / etc. Power for mine comes straight from the battery. I have a relay added so that the power doesn't go through the switch. Rain has killed two relays over the last 9-ish years. Depending on your amp draw, you'll prolly want to either power them directly from the battery or, maybe, from a FuzeBlock.
B. What to mount 'em on. Like I said, I've used Garauld's brackets which were fine for the FF50s and now have Wynpros for the heavier LEDs.
iii. How to control them. If the lights come in a kit, there's usually some kind of switch included. Assuming you go with an LED solution, you're prolly gonna want a dimmer / PWM. Other folks have experience with PWMs, so I'll defer to them to speak up. I mounted my switch on the same panel where the emergency flasher switch is located. It's an outta-the-way spot, but in retrospect, I would prefer something up on the left handlebar.

One final note: the Rigid LEDs throw out ~ twice the lumens for half the watts of the FF50s.

Here are a few pitchers:

Rigid LED light mounted on Garauld's bracket.

Back view.

Wynpro bracket on the left, Garauld bracket on the right.

Back view of the Rigid light on the Waynpro bracket.

Front view.

What it looks like with the amber lens covers on.

 

[Bill Lumberg]

Nice. My interest is for being able to see farther, better, when traveling at night. Great info.

 

[owsley]

My only experience is with LEDRider lights. LR4s? I think. I use brackets bought from the Forum, and for now a simple on/off switch through a fuzeblock. Works for me.

 

[BigOgre]

LR4s under the mirrors, Clearwaters on the fender mounts. CWs on at about 30% constantly, all come up to full with high-beams. Had this same setup on the '04 also and it serves my needs well.

My .02¢ would be not to sweat the placement of a dimmer control should you go with one. I nicely mounted the control into a panel on my '04 but found once I set it at the partial, everyday setting I never went back to adjust the intensity. When I moved it all over to the '15 I simply zip-tied the dimmer to the harness on the stem. I can get to it if I want but haven't done so since the install.

 

[PJ4863]

I've got LED riders on the front forks, and up higher on gerauld's mounts. Skene controller for me too. I keep the forks at 100% for conspicuity, they turn off when the high beams go on to save some amps. Darn gen 1 alternator! The uppers stay off except when the high beams come on. The lighting system comes on once the engine is started just like the regular headlights

If you don't want to positap the harness somewhere, you're going to have to go with a switch somewhere in the console or on the bars somewhere.

All that being said, sent you a PM.

 

[SacramentoMike]

I really love my Clearwater lights, but I have to acknowledge their high cost. On the other hand, I think the value for the price makes them a good choice. They are total quality with the best customer support you could ask for. I know Glenn takes whatever time is necessary to help with any questions or issues. I don't know of any vendor who offers more complete support, whenever the lights were bought.

My set up now is two large lights mounted on the mirrors--one Krista and one Erica (done at Glenn's recommendation for the combination of the narrower and longer-range beam of the Krista, filled in with the wider "flood" effect of the Erica (or is it the other way around?) I also have a pair of Darlas on the forks with yellow lens covers that make the bike stand out from other traffic to an amazing degree, both in day or night. I think I'd start with just the two upper lights if I were doing it again. I'm not saying I have too much light, by any means, but I do think all that light isn't often really needed. All of his lights come with custom bike-specific mounting brackets and all needed hardware too, of course.

When I put my first pair on my last bike (and they were the first Clearwater lights installed on any FJR), we didn't know where to put the dimmer, so I mounted it on the right front panel of my Gen I. It was hard to reach in actual use and the wiring inside interfered with panel removal. I soon moved it to the bottom of the left handlebar, just right of the cluster of switches and controls in that area. Easy to reach and see there. There's also an off/on switch for the upper lights mounted on the left side of the panel, aft of the "glove box" or whatever that little thing is called--couldn't hold much of a motorcycle glove.

If you spend the money for them, you'll be happy with them for a long time.

 

[dcarver]

I have to agree with Mike. After many years and miles I had a problem with my volume control and one of the lights. Glenn practically made me return the parts and replaced, with upgrades, for free.

 

[JREW]

Because of the cost and the dimmer switch, I didn't do the Clearwaters, but instead did the LR4s. I put a 3 way switch next to my glove box and have it set at 10% 0% 40%. I run 40 in the day and 10 at night, I want to be seen better in the day and at night I don't want to blind anyone. Of coarse, they are 100% on high beam. I mounted mine on the forks using a replacement bolt that also holds the fender.

As for the no cut option, I don't think that exists.

 

[08FJR4ME]

I opened up the weep slot on the front panels and ran the cable through there. No holes drilled. Just slightly modified slot. I took my time with a small round file to open them up. I doubt anyone would notice the difference.

Dave

 

[DennisJ]

I have a pair of Hella FF50's mounted on Garauld brackets. As posted earlier above, traffic does move out of the way a little quicker and the lights provide a lot of light down the road at night. Mine are controlled with an automatic switch that receives a signal from the High Beam Circuit. Drawback is that you need to turn off the HIgh Beams if you don't want to blind oncoming traffic or traffic infront of you.

 

[Powerman]

In the same boat on deciding on lights. Just say screw it and drop the big bucks or...

Wanted to like the LR4's, mine and several others leaked. One LED burnt out.

Not one call answered, or email returned?

 

[08FJR4ME]

I wired up my Amazon cheapo LED's last night. They throw a wide pattern about a 100 feet in front of the bike. They light up the road surface in front of me better now. So that was an improvement. I bought these on the intentions of visibility during the daylight hours. I have them wired to be on all the time. No one flashed me this morning riding in during the dark so they aren't to bright to piss folks off. They have achieved exactly what I wanted to do. Now let's see how long they last. They actually look pretty well built and had good reviews.

Dave