AVCC again

[fljab]

I am in the throes of my AVCC install; I have downloaded something like 8 previous ones from the list and other sources and using those as a guide, but I have an electrical Q:

I think I got it mostly figured out but the manual that comes with it says:

> The brown wire is ignition power

> The red wire is brake

When you read it further it shows that the red wire is to go on the 12V constant side of the brake switch (of a car), and the brown wire is part of the bundle that goes to the connector for the control pad. There is also a red wire coming from the control pad. None of the threads I downloaded specifically address this, but the way I see it is that the brown wire doesn't require anything but to be connected from the servo to the control pad via the provided connector.

The red wire from both the servo and control pad is switched 12V. I have a fuzeblock installed and I was planning on tapping power off that, so the Q is: Can I join the red wires from both the control pad and the servo and bring them off the fuze block? I'm also quessing that the gray control wire - which is the light (LED) for the control pad - could be bundled or otherwise electrically joined with the red wires, yes?

The install is going well - if slow - so far. I have the vac canister built, places for the servo and vac canister (in the tray under the seat), the tang drilled and 4mm button head bolt installed. The control pad mounting is complicated as I have a J&M CB on the left side, and Valentine mount on the right. I think I may eventually move the V1 around, so I'm leaving extra wire to move the control pad to that side, but right now it will be on the left not entirely convenient to my left hand, but it will work IMO until either I or one of you can come up with a brilliant solution I'm just not seeing right now...

Thanks in advance!

Jim in Mims, FL

 

[Roy Epperson]

The red wire from both the servo and control pad is switched 12V. I have a fuzeblock installed and I was planning on tapping power off that, so the Q is: Can I join the red wires from both the control pad and the servo and bring them off the fuze block?

Yes

I'm also quessing that the gray control wire - which is the light (LED) for the control pad - could be bundled or otherwise electrically joined with the red wires, yes?

Yes, (as I recall) mine is behind heat shrink so I can't double check but I spliced the two together in-line

The install is going well - if slow - so far. I have the vac canister built, places for the servo and vac canister (in the tray under the seat), the tang drilled and 4mm button head bolt installed.

Double / triple check that the nut that holds the button head bolt to the tang DOES NOT hold the tang off the throttle stop bolt. The tang should rest on it not the nut or you will have a higher idle speed.

The control pad mounting is complicated <snip> r I or one of you can come up with a brilliant solution I'm just not seeing right now...

See what I did here (bottom of the page). Maybe it might work.

 

[FJRGuy]

Mid wiring myself and noticed that in their install manual too. They say to use 12V Power from the brake likely to ensure the unit is only powered when there is power available to the brake switch for the brake override.

I am taking the red and black back to my FuzeBlock I am supplying power to my control switch from the same source (not using AV Dash Panel).

Unsure about the LED on the dash but don't think you power it separately. It is switched with the latching circuit in the panel.

 

[fljab]

(bottom of the page). Maybe it might work.

Where in the heck was this post when I was looking??!!

That mounting won't help as it would interfere with the J&M, altho it is worth seeing if I can do something with the mount points and maybe put it high above the left grip.

 

[fljab]

I am taking the red and black back to my FuzeBlock I am supplying power to my control switch from the same source (not using AV Dash Panel).
Unsure about the LED on the dash but don't think you power it separately. It is switched with the latching circuit in the panel.

On the fuzeblock, that makes sense to me and what I'd planned.

For the LED power; ditto. Doesn't make sense to power it separately; lights are on all the time on the bike, so to do that you would need a switch of some sort anyway + LEDs have long life, yes?

 

[Roy Epperson]

Where in the heck was this post when I was looking??!!

You just didn't look hard enough

It's was some of my posts on other threads a year ago

I had a problem when I was getting ready to do mine too - "here in the hell is the URL"

Enjoy you're cruise control, I know I do every ride.

Remember, the only way you can test the system is to ride the bike. It will not work on the center stand as the engine will over/under rev and the Audovox will turn off.

 

[Spud]

Where in the heck was this post when I was looking??!!

You just didn't look hard enough

It's was some of my posts on other threads a year ago

I had a problem when I was getting ready to do mine too - "here in the hell is the URL"

Enjoy you're cruise control, I know I do every ride.

Remember, the only way you can test the system is to ride the bike. It will not work on the center stand as the engine will over/under rev and the Audovox will turn off.

Ah yes, and that first test ride is quite a thrill. I remember thinking--OK, it's holding speed, I'm still alive, the chain didn't wrap around something and leave me WFO. I've never concentrated so hard on how to hit the kill switch until that ride. Now, several thousand miles later, it's just like flipping it on in the car...

 

[wfooshee]

The red wire from the servo unit is designed to be connected to the brake light circuit to prevent the unit from activating if the brake lights don't work. Easy on a Gen-I, it's at the switch on the rear brake pedal. Gen IIs use a relay, so it's different for those. Any switched power will make the unit work, but if the signalling fuse gets blown, which means you'll have no brake lights, the unit will not disengage with the brakes if that red wire is connected to another circuit for 12 volts. (This is why it's designed not to engage if the brake light citcuit is dead.) Grab the clutch and it will disengage nearly instantly; you don't need the kill switch or the key. If you're on an AE just downshift.

If you're anal and have to connect it to the real brake light circuit on a Gen II, you'll have to find that up under the front somewhere, or use the brown wire at the horn for 12 volts, since it's on the same fuse with the brake lights.

In a car that wire is ALWAYS hot, but the unit draws no power unless turned on by power on the brown wire from the control pad.

The red wire (some units are orange) from the control pad gets switched power. The gray wire for the lights in the buttons should just be spliced together with that. You can splice the servo's red wire in that, too, and it works fine. Just be aware of the miniscule possibility of having a blown brake light fuse keeping your CC from disengaging. Clutch it and it's good.

If you want to dispense with the pad, just connect the brown wire from the servo to switched power, and get a center-off momentary contact toggle switch. Put the green wire on one side and the yellow on the other, and that's your set and resume buttons. The servo is on if the brown wire is hot. The control pads applies 12 volts to the brown wire when you hit the On button, and removes it when you hit Off. Just hooking it up hot is fine; the unit is on with the key.

 

[fljab]

The red wire (some units are orange) from the control pad gets switched power. The gray wire for the lights in the buttons should just be spliced together with that. You can splice the servo's red wire in that, too, and it works fine. Just be aware of the miniscule possibility of having a blown brake light fuse keeping your CC from disengaging. Clutch it and it's good.
If you want to dispense with the pad, just connect the brown wire from the servo to switched power, and get a center-off momentary contact toggle switch. Put the green wire on one side and the yellow on the other, and that's your set and resume buttons. The servo is on if the brown wire is hot. The control pads applies 12 volts to the brown wire when you hit the On button, and removes it when you hit Off. Just hooking it up hot is fine; the unit is on with the key.

If I do eliminate the control pad AND want to keep an on/off switch, what do I put to it? brown & red, yes? which is hot - red? That would make sense as the red comes from a switched source, goes through the switch on the pad (or other on/off switch), then comes back to the servo, yes?

And if I want to NOT have the on/off switch, then the servo red, brown can be joined at a switched power source?

With no control pad, the gray and black that was connected to the pad could be eliminated, and green and yellow control set/resume, and on/off are brown/red.

Have I got this right? Trying to wrap my mind around this easy problem; sorry, it's late...

 

[FJRGuy]

If I do eliminate the control pad AND want to keep an on/off switch, what do I put to it? brown & red, yes? which is hot - red? That would make sense as the red comes from a switched source, goes through the switch on the pad (or other on/off switch), then comes back to the servo, yes?
And if I want to NOT have the on/off switch, then the servo red, brown can be joined at a switched power source?

With no control pad, the gray and black that was connected to the pad could be eliminated, and green and yellow control set/resume, and on/off are brown/red.

Have I got this right? Trying to wrap my mind around this easy problem; sorry, it's late...

To keep it simple:

12V Source to Red wire on Servo (could be unswitched but I am using switched from FuzeBlock)

12V Source to Brown wire on Servo to turn Cruise ON. (Many hardwire ON, but a simple ON-OFF switch mimics control pad latching circuit.)

12V Source to center of (On)-Off-(On) switch.

Green and Yellow to contacts of this switch.

Appears the black and gray wires provide power to the control pad back lighting and maybe the latching circuit but definitely not required if not using the pad.

 

[kleake]

For the control pad I used the bracket that is to mount the servo, bent it a little different and had it coming from the bottom of the handlebar turning up and mounted the contol pad to it. Puts the buttons more on the bottom side of the horn just to the right of it. Works pretty good, but I'm going to wire it up different as well. I can get a pic of it if you want.

Here is what I'm thinking: Set=Set, Resume=Resume, Off=Cancel, On=?

Why do I want it this way? Well, I don't like hitting on, then set, so on all the time is fine with me, but my brakes are applied before the brake light comes on. So if I come up behind a car and want to cancel,,, get around the car and resume,,, right now I tap the brake and get a little jolt in my speed. I want to wire the "off" to the brake light circuit with a diode so it doesn't even trigger a light, but lets me cancel. Then I just hit resume to go again. I don't think it will be hard at all, but I haven't even looked at it yet.

 

[FJRGuy]

For the control pad I used the bracket that is to mount the servo, bent it a little different and had it coming from the bottom of the handlebar turning up and mounted the contol pad to it. Puts the buttons more on the bottom side of the horn just to the right of it. Works pretty good, but I'm going to wire it up different as well. I can get a pic of it if you want.
Here is what I'm thinking: Set=Set, Resume=Resume, Off=Cancel, On=?

Why do I want it this way? Well, I don't like hitting on, then set, so on all the time is fine with me, but my brakes are applied before the brake light comes on. So if I come up behind a car and want to cancel,,, get around the car and resume,,, right now I tap the brake and get a little jolt in my speed. I want to wire the "off" to the brake light circuit with a diode so it doesn't even trigger a light, but lets me cancel. Then I just hit resume to go again. I don't think it will be hard at all, but I haven't even looked at it yet.

I like the idea of a cancel as well. Don't know if you can use the 'Off' on the panel as that turns off the internal latching circuit... but I don't know that much about it. I look forward to seeing your implementation.

 

[wfooshee]

The off button doesn't actually have an output wire out of the control pad. You'd have to open the pad, solder into the button's connectors, and maybe even cut a circuit trace to keep what you're doing out of the control logic.

 

[fljab]

I wanted to follow up on this. I completed the job and "smoke tested" it today with ~400 mile run.

The cruise sets and all that and I'm gonna leave it alone for awhile; But, I am going to go back and change at least the control pad - as in remove it and replace with switches.

The job took me longer than I meant it to for several reasons, not all FJR related, but of those that do, I changed my mind on a couple of things mid-stream. I had made up a mount to place it on the left side; I couldn't really get it "handy to the hand" as my J&M was there, so I was looking at it one night and came up with this mount to put it on the right. I kept the stock control pad, waterproofed the crap out of it (went through a brief but intense storm today).

I also had intended to run the harness up the left side along the stock one, but I already have quite a run going there with all the J&M, Garmin Zumo 550, and V1 "stuff" going that side - and the AVCC throttle cable was facing that way. I ended up reversing and running the harness and vac hose up the right via an added hole in my tray. That worked out much better but I had to go back and rework the harness. I have good quality crimpers - not the cheapie Autozone variety - plus I solder, liquid tape, and shrink wrap the connections. My old soldering torch was missing some pieces plus had seen better days, so picked up a great little pencil torch with a ton of accessories at Lowes for ~$20.

So, all that done, I took it out today. The stock control pad sucks IMO. It's hard (for me at least) to manipulate with gloved hands - and these are my vented summer ones, I can't imagine what it'll be like with my winter set(s). It was slow to react, both setting the speed initially, and the bump up/down. I'm not sure if that is "the nature of the beast" or my fingers just weren't always making good button contact aka pushing them right. I'd try and adjust speed and bump, bump, bump with no change; I finally got to where I'd just push and hold it in until it picked up (or down). In short, it was a fairly major PITA to operate via the stock control pad.

Setting speed initially at first you'd set it, roll off and drop 5+ mph, then it would "jerk" and bring the speed back up. I finally would set, then let off just abit, like 1-2mph and then you'd feel it pick up and could take you hand off.

So, I'm gonna go back in, remove the stock pad, and source a good toggle for set/accell/coast, an on/off, and a push-button for the brake circuit to cut it off (I'll just tee into the purple wire and run it up to the PB). I'm also wondering if maybe I have just a little bit too much slack in the chain/throttle cable. I was kinda paranoid about not having enough and it hanging up, but wonder if having too much would get it to respond slower on initial set.

Anyway, it did work, and I learned alot on this install; I like it, but need to revise a couple of things. Now I need to get "my thinking cap on" and come up with a good plan for the control switches. I know where I want to put the set/accel/coast toggle, just gotta figure out how to put it there. The other two can go in an easier to place location.

Thanks for the input guys, I appreciate it!

 

[wfooshee]

I have no problem with the pad with my summer gloves, but it's dang near impossible with my winter gloves.

The slow take-up and loose speed tolerance are indicative of too much slack in the bead chain. That makes the cable move to no effect for a while before it actually gets anything done. The bead chain should have as close to zero slack as you can get it, without holding the throttle off the idle screw setting.

 

[fljab]

The slow take-up and loose speed tolerance are indicative of too much slack in the bead chain. <snip>

Thanks, that's just what I was thinking. I'm glad to hear someone 2nd that!