AVCC

[Mark0212]

Well I've finally decided to tackle the AVCC kit I bought from Murphs'. I started the install yesterday and am taking my time doing it. I planned it in 3 phases. 1. Servo install, 2. Vacuum canister and hoses, 3. Electrical connections. I'm on an 2008 AE and was wondering if anyone has done it on that model and where they put the vacuum canister? It is packed everywhere and I can't seem to find a spot for it, so instead of reinventing the wheel, thought I'd just ask. I'll add a summary of the entire install for those that have been putting it off for obvious reasons...myself included.

 

[Mark0212]

I wanted to add something else. Murphs' vacuum canister has a builtin check valve, so I'm assuming (and will test) that a check valve comming off the manifold wouldn't be necessary. I'm basically going from manifold to canister to servo. Does this sound right?

 

[ionbeam]

My opinion is to start with drilling the throttle stop tab. No point in doing anything else until you have that little job successfully done, and there is no better time to do this task than when you are fresh, relaxed and have a good frame of mind.

With the check valve in the Murph's vacuum hose you don't require another check valve. Again, in my opinion, you should tap more than one vacuum port on the throttle bodies, and if you tap more than one vacuum port each port should have a check valve. If you tap two ports, one port should have a user supplied vacuum check valve and the Murph's check valve will do the other port. If you tee two ports together without a check valve you are joining the two sync ports together so they share a common vacuum level which may not be ideal. Others say that one vacuum port works for them and they don't use a vacuum canister so it must be correct for everyone else

Placement of the servo is a problem. Some put the servo forward of the Tee Bar under the gas tank, some sacrifice some or all of the tool tray under the seat, one person put the servo in the chin area behind the front wheel and just under the head pipes. I put my servo on the rear swing arm (have some pixs someplace. Ahh, found it quicker than expected: LINK And, earlier today someone was talking about putting the servo where the glove box is.

 

[kaitsdad]

 

[Zorlac]

"Again, in my opinion, you should tap more than one vacuum port on the throttle bodies"

My FJR's AVCC works well using just one port, I'd think your canister/ CV combo should work fine.

Just put a CCS100 on my DL650, again only tapping one port, works great.

I used a 10"-12"Lx3/4"id hose section as a canister in both installs.

 

[SLK50]

I installed my actuator behind the steering stem, under the tank; out of sight, out of mind.

It was definitely worth the extra effort.

For vacuum, I tapped all four ports, with individual check valves; no canister, no problem.

I've got five trouble-free years of use on mine.

 

[Spud]

Single port on mine (with canister); works like a Camry!

 

[Shane]

For whatever it's worth...

I've successfully operated an AVCC on a KLR. Having only one cylinder to provide vacuum was never an issue--vibrations killing the servo motor and wrecking electrical connections is another story.

Just weighing in to say that one vacuum source does the job.

Shane

 

[ian]

My opinion is to start with drilling the throttle stop tab. No point in doing anything else until you have that little job successfully done, and there is no better time to do this task than when you are fresh, relaxed and have a good frame of mind.

A friend's suggestion-put a piece of masking tape on the tang where you are going to drill. It gives the bit better purchase and doesn't slip off. I used a 6-8" long 1/8" bit.

With the check valve in the Murph's vacuum hose you don't require another check valve. Again, in my opinion, you should tap more than one vacuum port on the throttle bodies, and if you tap more than one vacuum port each port should have a check valve. If you tap two ports, one port should have a user supplied vacuum check valve and the Murph's check valve will do the other port. If you tee two ports together without a check valve you are joining the two sync ports together so they share a common vacuum level which may not be ideal. Others say that one vacuum port works for them and they don't use a vacuum canister so it must be correct for everyone else

Didn't have Murph's cannister when I installed mine in 04. I used a 4-5" x 1.5" piece of PVC pipe (much smaller and easier to place than Murph's), glued on end caps and used a brass fitting from Ace Hardware for the hose. I put it under the tail piece with a check valve running to one vacuum port.

Placement of the servo is a problem. Some put the servo forward of the Tee Bar under the gas tank, some sacrifice some or all of the tool tray under the seat, one person put the servo in the chin area behind the front wheel and just under the head pipes. I put my servo on the rear swing arm (have some pixs someplace. Ahh, found it quicker than expected: LINK And, earlier today someone was talking about putting the servo where the glove box is.

 

[Barry 07 FJR1300AE]

I can't believe u guys are still using the old school vacuum cruise controls. The all electric ones are definatley the way to go. Gen 2 shouldnt even consider the vacuum version it's all plug and play for us! Also worked great with my AE!

 

[Pat C]

I can't believe u guys are still using the old school vacuum cruise controls. The all electric ones are definatley the way to go. Gen 2 shouldnt even consider the vacuum version it's all plug and play for us! Also worked great with my AE!

Which electric cc are you talking about?

 

[Mark0212]

I finally completed the install!! MUAH :yahoo:

It took 3 days cuz I'm kinda slow at these things. I followed FJRCarShopGuy walkthru and UselessPickles comments for the necessary changes. I have to say as I was doing it, it all made perfect sense. I place the servo behind the coolant pipe and I have to say it's tight. My wiring isn't as pretty as some of the other guys, but I have OCD when it comes to cutting wires too short. I did a few things differently and wanted to summarize;

Do yourselves a favor and remove the fuelrail. I can't imagine working around the throttle tab with it in place. It came off easily with a large phillips. I didn't use a punch to mark the drill hole on the throttle tab, but rather a very small drill bit. I also used a large washer and the bar-end like a throttle lock to hold the tab in place. Worked flawlessly.

I mounted the control unit on the left coming from a U-bolt I have for the Garmin. I modified one of the brackets in the kit and it works. I will add a pic. I place the vacuum canister behind the rear seat. Now I have to find a place for my air pump.

I took it out for a test run and it works fine. I went up a large steep bridge at 70mph and it dropped to 65 mph, but leveled back at 70 mph, so there's was a loss of 5 mph. Does that sound right? I really haven't tested the canister to see how much vacuum is in reserve.

All-in-all it was a challenging job, but became simpler as I progressed. If you've been putting it off - don't. It wasn't that bad and I'd do it again.

 

[Barry 07 FJR1300AE]

rostra electronic cruise. It's cheap and easy to install plus they are currently in production.

 

[Zorlac]

rostra electronic cruise. It's cheap and easy to install plus they are currently in production.

So is the CCS100.

 

[Barry 07 FJR1300AE]

rostra electronic cruise. It's cheap and easy to install plus they are currently in production.

So is the CCS100.It's been a while since I have looked into them. That's great someone has started making them again.

 

[Woketman]

For the record, I installed mine about a year ago. I placed it under the tank too and tapped two cylinders for vacuum. I have always felt that it was a bit sluggish to respond to throttle when starting up a hill. Every car I have had was better at maintaining speed. Were I to do it again, I would set the dip switch that controlled cruise aggressiveness to a higher setting and perhaps use all four for vacuum.

 

[UselessPickles]

I have always felt that it was a bit sluggish to respond to throttle when starting up a hill. ... Were I to do it again, I would set the dip switch that controlled cruise aggressiveness to a higher setting...

I've been thinking the same thing. Like all how-to's I've seen have suggested, I set mine to the "low weight, high power" setting, which makes sense for a fairly powerful motorcycle. My observations are that it cuts off the throttle a bit too aggressively downhill and applies throttle too softly uphill. My only concern about adjusting the setting is that it might get even more aggressive with cutting the throttle downhill (it actually should, in theory).

 

[Pat C]

rostra electronic cruise. It's cheap and easy to install plus they are currently in production.

Where can I purchase the Rostra? Do you have install pics for the AE I also have a 07ae and I'm very interested in installing one.

 

[Fred W]

Murph's Kits sells both the Rostra and the Audiovox cruise controls.