bar risers

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stu

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I have a friend who has purchased an 08 fjr and needs more pull back and height to feel comfortable----- I have the heli risers on my 05 but he would like to find something with even more rearward bar location. Any suggestions out there ????

 
I'm 6-4 so I felt the need for 1" bar riders and found them a bit more comfortable for me. Higher? I think 2" ones would stretch or stress on the cabling a bit too much IMO.

 
These are from touratech. I just saw them on someones FJR and they are probably the best looking ones I have seen yet. The pics don't really do them justice. They rise and flare out as well as pull back.

Touratech risers Not sure about price, but you might say Touratech is very proud of their parts.

 
since 2006, when the new model was released ,,,guy's have been working on this...... Motorcycle Larry,,Heli bars ,And all the rest of them... It's been an issue since there "intro" ,, In 2003,,The problem is the cable's and "hydro" lines ...they can only be streached so much...hell, some of these guy's would have "mini"ape hangers on these things,,if they could.Tell your friend that,they can only move about 2 inches ethier way.. I went with the MCLarry.triple tree riser's ..about $300. .The install was not bad at all ..and they look killer .. Best of luck... Larry ,,, I'am new to the computers so ..I have know freackin clue ,,how to send pics but I'am sure someone could..

 
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On my Gen1 I've got double risers. The cables and hoses worked but when I went with SS clutch and brake lines I had 2" added to the length.

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I've also moved the top riser back on the bottom riser that this picture doesn't show so they are now up and back even further. Very comfortable.

 
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I have the MCL model which seems to be the most you can go without messing with the cables. Part of what made choose these is that it is machined from one solid block. Risers clamp etc. all one piece. ;)

 
On my new (to me) 2007 I just installed the MCL riser plate that replaces your upper triple clamp. Wow what a difference! I am barely 5ft. 8 and I couldnt ride 10 miles without pain in my right hand. After install I rode 60 miles with no pain. This part looks good and fits good. All the cables reach. I did unhook the throttle cables and reroute them to the left side of the brakeline (picture at MCL website). Also I borrowed the drill fixture to drill out the ignition switch bolts. It made that job a lot easier. Also I do seem to notice a little less vibes after the install. I am very happy with it. Moves bars up 1.5 and back1.5.

 
I had ordered the MCL riser, but (just my luck) they are out of them... eta 4 to 6 weeks.

I looked at the others, some don't bring the bars back, some don't give you any forward twist. I have brought the bars back (factory adjustment) and removed the outer pins to twist them forward a couple degrees. This seems to have taken the load off mt wrist and a tendon or something in my shoulder that was announcing its displeasure....getting there, but a ways to go.

 
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Chuck,

Is everything still solid after removing the outer pins?

I would hate to have the bars shift on me at the wrong time.

Is there a link to doing that mod you can point me to?

Thanks,

Jon...

 
Removing the pins is a common modification. Mine has been that way four years with no pivoting after torqued back to spec.

 
So, how difficult is it to install the riser plate? :unsure: I have plenty of common sense, and I'm mechanically inclined, but I'm not a mechanic.

 
The riser plate doesn't look to bad to install. The worst part is gonna be the shear bolts on the ignition switch. I deal with these often in my day job as a Toyota technician. Rather than drilling them, I prefer to use a punch device. Depending on the amount of torque required to twist off the head (at original install) you can often use an "automatic center punch". This is a spring loaded device for making dimples in metal before drilling. You want to make a dimple on the outer edge of the conical head, then change angles and drive the dimple counterclockwise to loosen it. If you have shop air, check popular auction sites for "snap on in-line air hammer" this and a pointed bit is an awesome combination! If you must drill, I'd suggest left handed bits ;)

I have noticed no movement after removing the outer pins. I stumbled across this on many threads about the fjr handlebars. They don't move much, but in my case its enough to save my wrist and shoulder until I can buy a permanent solution. I had my heart set on the MCL plate, but it's 6 weeks out. I may end up with the Helibar plate adding the riser blocks later if needed.

My refund from MCL is in Paypal hell for at least the weekend so I have some time to mull over it.

 
Sorry for the slight hijack....Thanks for the followup on removing the pins. I may give that a try.

Back on topic....

I too have been looking at Gen-II risers or the Heilbar / MCL replacement's.

I'm really comfortable with the bend on dirt bike bars and wondering if the 1-deg change with the Heilbar will be enough, or if the MCL 4-deg would be better. It looks like they all place the bars about the same distance closer. They just go about it differently.

I would hate to spend 300.00 + only to find I should have got the other one. Guess it's time to take some measurements.

Chuck,

Good tip on removing the security screws. Especially using left handed bits.

Jon...

 
heli will take them back for 30 days if you aren't happy. I tell ya, the little bit of rotation I got with the pins was amazing cure for some serious pain. I'd bet this could be done with heli also.

 
Thanks for the info, Chuck. Those bolts will outdo me, I think. It seems I'd be as well off paying a mechanic for labor than buying equipment and trying it myself. I'll keep researching and figure it out.

 
if you have an ignition switch recall due, they have to remove the shear bolts, maybe they would put in some standard ones for you, or install the riser plate cheap at the same time.

 
With the 2012 I think I'm good. I think, out of curiosity, I'll check with my local mechanic as well as the dealer's service dept and ask what they'd charge me to do the install.

 
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