Barbarian Mod Testimonial

[mdisher]

Barbarian Mod Testimonial.

Note: This is not a paid endorsement for or by the makers of the Barbarian Mod. The accounts and descriptions given in this testimonial are believed to be factual, though no guaranties as to its authenticity is made and no warranties are implied.

I purchased and applied the Barbarian Modification to my Yamaha FJR 2006 Faster Blue model on Sunday September 17th, 2006.

I was able to remove the seat, all plastic and access the wiring harness on the left hand side of the bike all by my self.

Wiggling loose the connector to the main wiring harness was indeed a challenge but one that I was able to overcome without expelling too much energy.

The connector was clearly labeled and I could see that the wire in question was indeed located in the number 23 location. I used a the paper-clip that came with the Barbarian Modification Kit to push the plug out of the number 25 pin connector hole and did not lose it. I think that was the key.

I then faught, and faught and struggled to remove the orange/yellow wire from the 23rd pin location until it broke, and I thought to myself, *shit* this sucks… Let’s see if I really need to do this. The bike was on the center stand and I attempted to fire it up. It ran like crap… Throttle response was nasty to say the least. So I figured, what the hell, I was committed now.

I looked at the Barbarian Mod instructions but there wasn’t anything about repairing a broken wire, and the only tool provided was the paper-clip. So off into the shop to find something to rig this up just right. I ended up with a piece of copper wire that fit just ever so tight in the connector and wouldn’t pull out when the connector was pushed on.

I soldered that baby to the wire, shrink wrapped it up, and pushed it altogether. Fired it up, and viola.

Mod almost done.

Now for debug mode, if this actually worked, I should be able to get into diagnostic mode and make some changes. I was able to, and did. +7 across the board as recommended. Initial values were +5 +18 +18 +21

Then I let it sit for 24 hours. This step is optional.

Today was the first day I got to ride it.

Holly Molly. Those folks at Barbarian Mod Inc. Really gave me my money’s worth!

It was much smoother off idle, up to around 3~4k Hell, maybe they just brainwashed me but I don’t think so. This was money well spent!

Git-R-Dun

 

[AdrianNKY]

AHAHAHAHA!!! Nice write up.

Now just tell me when I can come over so you can help me do my bike.

 

[mdisher]

AHAHAHAHA!!! Nice write up.


Now just tell me when I can come over so you can help me do my bike.

Anytime takes about 30 minutes. I'll help you up to the point where you pull the yellow/orange wire out, you're on your own right there.

 

[radman]

Don't feel too bad 'bout the wire. While doing a cruise install a couple weeks ago, I managed to install all 4 precrimped male bullet connectors into the nylon block connector in the wrong direction, effectively ruining it. This, after carefully checking to see that the orientation was correct, then having my attention diverted for just a minute. Stupidest thing I've done in quite some time. Shit happens, and we all get a taste sooner or later........

 

[mdisher]

Wow!

OK, so this mornings testimonial was after my commute into work. On the way home I discovered another side effect.

Before the Bavarian Mod... I did NOT have the '06, 1st gear, 5k rpm, whack the throttle open, power wheelie defect. It wasn't there, nope it sure wasn't.

Now I'm not saying wheelies weren't possible, Fencer can attest that they are/were. But the roll up to 5k and whack it open power wheelie wasn't, but it sure as hell is now. Oh boy is it.

:yahoo:

Not that I need this for every day riding, as most people know the stock fork seals aren't up to this kind of abuse on a regular basis, but now and again, it doesn't hurt when no one's lookin, and I have something to gauge the bike's power by Yeah, that's it... If it's ever down on power I won't be able to do that.

That's my story and I'm stickin to it.

 

[Bounce]

For anyone reading and worried about breaking pins while trying to extract them, look closely at the back (wire side) of each pin as they sit inside the multi-gang connector. You'll see that there's a "springy" side to the back of each pin. This locks the pin into the connector. Using something small, like a jeweler's screwdriver, you can reach in and hold that "locking tab" against the body of the pin and you can then slide the pin out without any resistance.

They make "pin extractors" specifically for this job, but unless you're doing it a lot, then this work around will do the job good enough.

 

[mdisher]

For anyone reading and worried about breaking pins while trying to extract them, look closely at the back (wire side) of each pin as they sit inside the multi-gang connector. You'll see that there's a "springy" side to the back of each pin. This locks the pin into the connector. Using something small, like a jeweler's screwdriver, you can reach in and hold that "locking tab" against the body of the pin and you can then slide the pin out without any resistance.
They make "pin extractors" specifically for this job, but unless you're doing it a lot, then this work around will do the job good enough.

I'm looked long and hard for that... was I supposed to pull out the orange rubbery stuff to see it on the wire side? I had a pin tool from other connectors but it didn't fit. I couldn't figure out what the hell was locking that in there.

Are you talking about from the non wire side? pulling the metal receptical pin part away from the plastic?

Like so:

(( )) ((-> <-)) if you will? Does that make any sense?

If so I may go back in at some point and get the rest of the pin out of the other part of the connector.

-MD

 

[KYFJR]

So now you are part of the whacking club....Hmmmm. Isn't that illegal in OH?

And I was beginning to think you didn't believe me!

 

[Bounce]

I'm looked long and hard for that... was I supposed to pull out the orange rubbery stuff to see it on the wire side? I had a pin tool from other connectors but it didn't fit. I couldn't figure out what the hell was locking that in there.
Are you talking about from the non wire side? pulling the metal receptical pin part away from the plastic?

Like so:

(( )) ((-> <-)) if you will? Does that make any sense?

If so I may go back in at some point and get the rest of the pin out of the other part of the connector.

-MD

ya lost me.

i typically extract the male pin from the back (wire) side of the gang connector. in some cases, you have to look closely and see how it's designed.

 

[mdisher]

I'm looked long and hard for that... was I supposed to pull out the orange rubbery stuff to see it on the wire side? I had a pin tool from other connectors but it didn't fit. I couldn't figure out what the hell was locking that in there.
Are you talking about from the non wire side? pulling the metal receptical pin part away from the plastic?

Like so:

(( )) ((-> <-)) if you will? Does that make any sense?

If so I may go back in at some point and get the rest of the pin out of the other part of the connector.

-MD

ya lost me.

i typically extract the male pin from the back (wire) side of the gang connector. in some cases, you have to look closely and see how it's designed.

Then I tried to do it backwards... You can tell the female side has the female recepticals pressed in too. :angry2:

 

[AdrianNKY]

Barbarian Mod Testimonial.I purchased and applied the Barbarian Modification to my Yamaha FJR 2006 Faster Blue model on Sunday September 17th, 2006.

Upon reading such a glorious testimonial from yet another satisfied customer of the Barbarian Modification I broke down and purchased one for my faster blue 2006 A model this evening.

I can only concur with all the statements made thus far regarding the purchase/installation and testing of this modification. It's superb. Much, much, much smoother up to 4-5k rpm. There isn't even any thought required here...it's just to instantaneously obvious.

I was a tad puzzled however as I must have recieved the "plus" version of the Barbarian Modification as mine also included the "Wheeliematic 2000". The fine folks at BMI ensured me that I did in fact have the correct version so I was quite happy.

Next on the list will be the "EasyTwist Throttle Pull{tm}" modification which I hope to receive in the mail by this weekend.

Hopefully over the winter I can save up to afford the "PHID Dark-Be-Gone" Illumination kit from our fine friends at Farklemagic{tm}.

 

[zzzzip]

OK-- what am I doing wrong?

Nothing to do today except mow the yard, so... why not do the Barbarian on the '06 and see what I can screw up.

Before moving wires, I decided to run through the diagnostics and see what the stock CO settings are. Did the key on/select/reset thing and can get as far as the "d:01" with "17" above. Pressing select or reset only moves d:01 up to 02 or down to 70. Pressing both buttons at the same time does the same. Press and hold does the same thing.

In other words, I can't figure out how to move on to each cylinder to see the setting. What do I need to do? Keep in mind I can't program a VCR either. :glare:

B)

 

[kaitsdad]

OK-- what am I doing wrong?
Nothing to do today except mow the yard, so... why not do the Barbarian on the '06 and see what I can screw up.

Before moving wires, I decided to run through the diagnostics and see what the stock CO settings are. Did the key on/select/reset thing and can get as far as the "d:01" with "17" above. Pressing select or reset only moves d:01 up to 02 or down to 70. Pressing both buttons at the same time does the same. Press and hold does the same thing.

In other words, I can't figure out how to move on to each cylinder to see the setting. What do I need to do? Keep in mind I can't program a VCR either. :glare:

B)

zzzzip, you didn't screw anything up -

however --

the 'barbarian mod' allows the diagnositic screen to display and modify the CO levels. Without the wire being moved, you can't see what the stock CO levels are.

It's kind of like setting a dipswitch on a computer board -

 

[zzzzip]

Thanks for the reply-- it looks like I had the cart before the horse. Probably should have left well enough alone.

Tried to push the 23 wire from the back side of the hole, and unlike the pin in 25, it would not budge. Finally decided to try and pull the wire out, with the expected results-- it broke. So, strip, cut, solder, cuss, put it back where it came from, and button everything back up.

Test ride shows everything running fine. Hopefully the splice will hold forever and not short out in the middle of nowhere.

Maybe I'll try the jump another day. Should have stuck to mowing the yard. Time to walk away from it. :angry2:

B)

 

[kaitsdad]

Thanks for the reply-- it looks like I had the cart before the horse. Probably should have left well enough alone.
Tried to push the 23 wire from the back side of the hole, and unlike the pin in 25, it would not budge. Finally decided to try and pull the wire out, with the expected results-- it broke. So, strip, cut, solder, cuss, put it back where it came from, and button everything back up.

Test ride shows everything running fine. Hopefully the splice will hold forever and not short out in the middle of nowhere.

Maybe I'll try the jump another day. Should have stuck to mowing the yard. Time to walk away from it. :angry2:

B)

The broken wire is what happens when the relief clip is not released - if you look at the sides of the connector, there are three white bars on one side, and two white bars on the other. You push on those and it unclips all the wires in the connector. Then the male wire ends just push out with a paperclip.

Once the wire and plug are reversed, then just push the relief slide back into place, and it holds all the wires in place.

This is covered here: FJRtech.com barbarian jumper mod

 

[zzzzip]

You know, I must have read that thread 3 or 4 times over the last couple of months, and I totally forgot about cracking the case open. Stupid is as stupid does. :blink:

B)

 

[kaitsdad]

On the positive side, it never hurrts to stay current with your soldering skills...... :blink:

 

[zzzzip]

OK, one last time....

I'm the kind of guy who just can't leave something alone if it bugs me. :dribble: I tore the bike apart again, and THIS time I released the white bar retainer. Out came the pin, like it should have. So I redid my soldering job to look like it should, and switched wire locations.

Diagnostics said I was 5,18,18 and21. I added 7 to each and went for a ride.

Bike now has throttle response in 1st, 2nd and 3rd around town like it should. No more either 'on' or 'off', I'm much smoother. Went out on the highway, and yes I'd say it has more power now. It acts more like my '04 did, maybe better. We'll see. :yahoo:

Easy job to do, IF you don't forget to push that little white bar in on the plug. :glare:

Thanks for the help.

B)

 

[AdrianNKY]

OK, one last time....
I'm the kind of guy who just can't leave something alone if it bugs me. :dribble: I tore the bike apart again, and THIS time I released the white bar retainer. Out came the pin, like it should have. So I redid my soldering job to look like it should, and switched wire locations.

Diagnostics said I was 5,18,18 and21. I added 7 to each and went for a ride.

Bike now has throttle response in 1st, 2nd and 3rd around town like it should. No more either 'on' or 'off', I'm much smoother. Went out on the highway, and yes I'd say it has more power now. It acts more like my '04 did, maybe better. We'll see. :yahoo:

Easy job to do, IF you don't forget to push that little white bar in on the plug. :glare:

Thanks for the help.

B)

Glad it worked out for you in the end Z.....

For me, (ymmv) it made the world of difference in an already fabulous bike.