Battery tender lead

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Pat C

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I posted a few days ago about my 07ae woundn't start, I charged battey for awhile started no problem. I called dealer and they said to bring it down, so I was due for my 4000 mi service anyway so I brought it down. They checked charging system, stator & regulator said it was fine without the lead for tender hooked up to battery with lead on, it wasn't charging. They also put a load on battery and said it was ok. This doesn't make sense to me how could a lead that is not plugged into anything cause a problem? They also tried a new lead and they got the same results.

 
You are talking about the lead that comes with the Battery Tender that has an SAE plug on one end?

Is it connected directly to the battery?

If so, do you have the side with the exposed terminal on the negative side of the battery?

 
First, I would put an ammeter or continuity tester across both ends (not necessary, but I'm OCD) of the uninstalled tender harness to see if there's current able to cross over somehow.

 
How the hell could a battery tender lead prevent the battery from charging? If it's not connected to anything at one end, there's no current draw or loss anywhere on the lead.

First, I would put an ammeter or continuity tester across both ends (not necessary, but I'm OCD) of the uninstalled tender harness to see if there's current able to cross over somehow.
If it could pass current unconnected, that would mean it's internally shorting, and it would fry like a Texas deathrow inmate at midnight when the battery-end leads were connected to the battery.

And even if the leads were connected incorrectly, it wouldn't make an effin' bit of difference until the Battery Tender was hooked up, which would probably fry the Tender since the polarity was wrong.

I'm calling BS on the dealer's explanation. Something else is amiss.

 
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Maybe just a little better hygiene is needed in the terminal area. (OK, that sounds disgusting, but you know what I mean.) Corroded terminals, bad connection; worse when Tender lead is attached. ???

 
How the hell could a battery tender lead prevent the battery from charging? If it's not connected to anything at one end, there's no current draw or loss anywhere on the lead.

First, I would put an ammeter or continuity tester across both ends (not necessary, but I'm OCD) of the uninstalled tender harness to see if there's current able to cross over somehow.
If it could pass current unconnected, that would mean it's internally shorting, and it would fry like a Texas deathrow inmate at midnight when the battery-end leads were connected to the battery.

And even if the leads were connected incorrectly, it wouldn't make an effin' bit of difference until the Battery Tender was hooked up, which would probably fry the Tender since the polarity was wrong.

I'm calling BS on the dealer's explanation. Something else is amiss.
Yeah - dealer makes no sense.

Open, short, or reverse polarity are the only options that would prevent charging from happening, and ONLY FROM THE TENDER -

So if it's not being charged by the stator, there's sumptin' wrong.

Is there another dealer you can take it to?

 
Odds of it being the chord is one in a trillion, this would mean that the cable insulation is breaking down above ~13.5V but adequate below 13V.

My fist guess is the dealer only tested the voltage output level while the system was not under loaded conditions. The charging system may work fine without a system draw (stationary revving the engine, but once moving down the road the load on the electrical system increases. Do you typically ride with several accessories plugged in?

 
My fist guess is the dealer only tested the voltage output level while the system was not under loaded conditions.
Nice Freudian slip. :dribble:

If you're not careful from here on out, Bust'll show up on your door step lookin' to shave yer anus. :angry2:

You've been warned.

:rolleyes:

 
Odds of it being the chord is one in a trillion, this would mean that the cable insulation is breaking down above ~13.5V but adequate below 13V.
My fist guess is the dealer only tested the voltage output level while the system was not under loaded conditions. The charging system may work fine without a system draw (stationary revving the engine, but once moving down the road the load on the electrical system increases. Do you typically ride with several accessories plugged in?
I have no accessories plugged in. 3 days after I brought it home from dealers I went out to start bike, it started but after a couple of minuted the abs light came on then the display panel went off then the tach wouldn't work then bike stalled and would not start after that, I have battery on charger now.

 
It's not a short due, as has been said to the lack of smoke. I'll bet it it's a (partial) open - a resistance. The battery cables probably lay at slightly different positions when the battery tender lead is installed. It could be a bad cable end on one of the battery leads or possibly a problem with one of the battery posts that is only exhibited with strain from the angle the cable is at with the tender harness installed.

You could try connecting only one side of the tender cable at a time, then concentrate on the pole that triggers the problem...

 
It's not a short due, as has been said to the lack of smoke. I'll bet it it's a (partial) open - a resistance. The battery cables probably lay at slightly different positions when the battery tender lead is installed. It could be a bad cable end on one of the battery leads or possibly a problem with one of the battery posts that is only exhibited with strain from the angle the cable is at with the tender harness installed.
You could try connecting only one side of the tender cable at a time, then concentrate on the pole that triggers the problem...
Buy or borrow another lead -- if the problem disappears it is the cable. It doesn't -- then keep looking.

Too simple?

 
It's not a short due, as has been said to the lack of smoke. I'll bet it it's a (partial) open - a resistance. The battery cables probably lay at slightly different positions when the battery tender lead is installed. It could be a bad cable end on one of the battery leads or possibly a problem with one of the battery posts that is only exhibited with strain from the angle the cable is at with the tender harness installed.
You could try connecting only one side of the tender cable at a time, then concentrate on the pole that triggers the problem...
Buy or borrow another lead -- if the problem disappears it is the cable. It doesn't -- then keep looking.

Too simple?
Dealer tried new lead, the problem still exists even without the lead. I took battery out and had it tested and it tested fine, there must be something drawing from battery.

 
Dealer tried new lead, the problem still exists even without the lead. I took battery out and had it tested and it tested fine, there must be something drawing from battery.
OK, so what electrical farkles have you got?

I found out the hard way that my Garmin will not drain the battery overnight, but will kill it dead if I forget it on and leave it for five days.

I also had a bad relay on my Hella lights which drained the battery if I didn't run the bike for a couple of days. I could hear the relay pick if I disconnected the battery cable and then touched it on and off of the terminal.

 
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Dealer tried new lead, the problem still exists even without the lead. I took battery out and had it tested and it tested fine, there must be something drawing from battery.
OK, so what electrical farkles have you got?

I found out the hard way that my Garmin will not drain the battery overnight, but will kill it dead if I forget it on and leave it for five days.

I also had a bad relay on my Hella lights which drained the battery if I didn't run the bike for a couple of days. I could hear the relay pick if I disconnected the battery cable and then touched it on and off of the terminal.
I don't have any farkles.

 
Odds of it being the chord is one in a trillion, this would mean that the cable insulation is breaking down above ~13.5V but adequate below 13V.
My fist guess is the dealer only tested the voltage output level while the system was not under loaded conditions. The charging system may work fine without a system draw (stationary revving the engine, but once moving down the road the load on the electrical system increases. Do you typically ride with several accessories plugged in?
No accessories plugged in.

 

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