Best wiring ideas

[Caba]

OK,

I've got the hot (switched) and neutral wiring terminals in with a relay and I've added an accessory plug and some cheap switched fog lights. All well and good. I'm now facing the installation of two additional farkles and have some questions:

1) I'm wiring in some driving lights to augment the brights (just standard halogens unfortunately) :sad2: and I'd like to have them come on with the brights. I'm assuming another relay and the switched power from the brights. Is this the best way and where would be the best place to tap into the brights.

Oh, I also have the HID headlamp replacement and am looking to install those shortly if it affects anything.

2) I'm also installing heated grips with a heat-troller. Without having any experience, I would assume that the thing to do is wire the high through the heat troller and ignore the low power wire and switch installation completely.

Looking for advice.

Caba

 

[SickDog]

Here's a handy diagram for wiring your heated grips with a Heatroller control unit (the diagram is not mine, but one that has been frequently cited on the FJR forums).

 

[SickDog]

I also had this wiring diagram for aux. lights...

 

[Bounce]

great drawings. i prefer my aux lights to be wired with DPDT swtiches. I can then set them up to work as follows:

up: always on no matter what the headlights are doing

middle: always off no matter what the headlights are doing

down: on with the high beam. off with the low beam

this will ensure that the bike will pass muster with any inspection requirements or any leo that might try to make an issue of it.

 

[Caba]

I like that Idea Bounce.

How did you tie in the link to the brights? I assume a relay tapped off a brights wire for the switch? If so, where did you tap in?

Caba

 

[Bounce]

You can use one of the line taps that Warchild likes to much and just tap a high-beam hot wire. OR you can find a place in the harness that feeds the high beams, cut it, solder up a Y and solder/shrink wrap it all in there for the belt-and-suspender way of doing it (which is what I did). The taps that Warchild recommends are the only ones I'd use. The "blue thingues" can compromise the reliability of your wiring harness by cutting strands and creating a place for corrosion to sneak in.

 

[Caba]

Thanks for the feedback!!

I have now installed the heated grips with the heattroller, some cheap aftermarket spotlights and the HID hi/lo headlight replacement.

Some good things I found / did:

With the complete nose cone taken apart I noticed that the mounting screws for the dash are a great place to put two relays (one on each side) for the other farkles right between the stock relays!! Fit great and the terminals face down and are easily accessibe with just the dash panels off!

With the HID headlight kit, one of the stock bulb connectors is unused. I plugged into this with a terminal to have the relay trigger the aux lights only to be on with the brights!! No comprimizing the wiring harness with a tap!

With the HID install, I was able to fit both Ballasts between the Lamps and one igniter. The other igniter is placed on the right as per WC's writeup.

One last call for [SIZE=14pt]Help![/SIZE] For those of you that have done the HID Hi/Lo install (Jestal, FJRocket, WC), [SIZE=14pt]Where in the Hell did you put the rest of the wiring harness!!! [/SIZE]I think I'm going to end up with it inside the fairing next to my right knee!

 

[Caba]

Well, I had it all together (I thought) and before putting the last two dash panels in, I tried it.

One of the HID lights wasn't working and the AUX lights were reversed (on with the low beams off with the high beams).

Oh well,......Calling it a night. I'll rip it all apart again and see why the HID bulb isn't working.

 

[650cent]

Hey,

I found this article on conductor sizing and wiring info for 12 volt systems on boats. The info will also be good for bikes.

https://www.boatus.com/boattech/cable.htm

Bill

 

[Caba]

OK, All Done!

In the nosecone I now have 4 ballasts and 2 ignitors, quite a few in-line fuses, two wiring strips (one switched hot and one ground) and it is tight!

In the wire-fest I have added the following:

1) Accessory outlet

2) Heated Grips with Heat-troller

3) HID Bi-Xenon lights

4) PHID Auxiliary lights (tied into brights)

5) Halogen Fog Lamps

I actually got it done all in the nose cone and didn't take anything back to under the seat.

With the problems on the HID install, I finally realized that it wasn't going in unless I chopped a lot of the extra harness. Done. And Damn I LOVE the pair of HID's. Rode to work this morning and could see GREAT! :agent:

I found an excellent place for installing Relays behind the dash (piccie below).

I routed the wire for the left side hand grip through the box for the brights switch and windshield and I think it came out great (again close-up below).

I probably still need to take it apart one more time and secure or chop out any additional extra wire, but overall it works.

Bike Apart prior to ballast installation

Relay Placement Location behind Dash

Heated Grip wire through windshield box

Heat Troller and Accessory placement

Dual Grommet installation for PHID & Fog Lamps

Very Poor final picture of Bike.

 

[FJR1300]

You can use one of the line taps that Warchild likes to much and just tap a high-beam hot wire.

Please tell me more about the taps? Where can I order them from?

 

[dobias]

Caba,

When you said you "chopped" the HID wiring, did you actually shorten the wiring from the igniters to the bulbs?

I'm very interested in that. I'm presently shoehorning the ballasts and igniters into the fairing lowers. The only wish I have is for longer wires between the igniters and the bulbs.

Do you have the wire pieces you removed? Can I get them from you?

Barring that, can you describe the wires so that I can buy some to add-in? I have no idea what they are, other than they are very soft flexible wires. Are they twin conductor or shielded single conductor?

Your description and any cautions will be closely read by me.

dobias <_<

 

[Bounce]

You can use one of the line taps that Warchild likes to much and just tap a high-beam hot wire.

Please tell me more about the taps? Where can I order them from?

I wish I could (CRS). I know someone else out there will remember the excellent, weatherproof taps that "spike" the wire instead of using a blade to cut the insulation (and some wire strands at the same time).

---update---

Posi-tap it is! Thanks.

 

[vectervp1]

You can use one of the line taps that Warchild likes to much and just tap a high-beam hot wire.

Please tell me more about the taps? Where can I order them from?

I wish I could (CRS). I know someone else out there will remember the excellent, weatherproof taps that "spike" the wire instead of using a blade to cut the insulation (and some wire strands at the same time).

Was it a Posi-tap?

 

[Leghorn]

See also here.

Aerostich

 

[ian]

I've always soldered all wire junctions except where plugs were required. Ian, Iowa

 

[Caba]

Caba,When you said you "chopped" the HID wiring, did you actually shorten the wiring from the igniters to the bulbs?

I'm very interested in that. I'm presently shoehorning the ballasts and igniters into the fairing lowers. The only wish I have is for longer wires between the igniters and the bulbs.

Do you have the wire pieces you removed? Can I get them from you?

Barring that, can you describe the wires so that I can buy some to add-in? I have no idea what they are, other than they are very soft flexible wires. Are they twin conductor or shielded single conductor?

Your description and any cautions will be closely read by me.

dobias <_<

Dobias,

Sorry I didn't get back sooner, I've been off line for a while.

Well, I did chop the harness (a little nervous at first) but worked fine. I had to chop the harness for the PHID's to get the wiring through the dash grommet. All chopping on the HID upgrade for the headlights was done on the 12 volt side of the electronics. For the PHID's it was between the ballasts and Ignitors.

Wires all seem to be normal copper and take well to standard connectors. But you're right, the insulation seems more pliable than most. Writing on the wiring didn't seem to indicate any extreme voltage specification though.

If you're interested, I'll see if I still have the Bits left.

Caba

 

[dobias]

Caba,

Thanks anyway, but I've remounted all of the HID stuff in the headlight area. Talk about 10 lbs. in a 5 lb. bag!

dobias

 

[krashdragon]

Ok corect me if I'm wrong ( wouldnt' be the first time! <BG&gt

but i thot that if you had supplemental lighting, federal regualtiions said that it could only be on when the low beams were on, not the hight beams...

I see your reason for having it on with the high beams, or with a 3pole switch ( that's a good idea) but wondering how it would pass a safety iinspection if the extra lights came on with the hi beams...

thanks

mary