wheatonFJR
...
Could it be a bad battery? I know when petey's 06 had an issue in AR that seemed like an ignition switch issue, it ended up being a bad post on a battery.
Bike Wont Start
- Thread starter GillaFunk
- Start date
Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:
ionbeam
2 FUN
I read this to mean that two different batteries have not changed the starting problem.
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fjrchooser
Well-known member
Naw, not really Wheatie. I just find big dangly earrings mesmerizing when viewed from certain angles. I'd pop for a pair for her..
FJRScorpion
Well-known member
I've got a similar problem and the '05 left me stranded on the last ride of the last day before it's winter nap. :angry2: Although I tried a fully charged 'used' battery afterwards it did not turn over. I assumed that both of the batteries were just compromised. I didn't want to purchase a new battery until spring, but now I'm thinking that would be a bad time to find out that I have a more serious issue when I could have been working on it all winter.
ionbeam
2 FUN
There may a critical difference between GillaFunk's and your problem. Gilla's starter relay goes CLICK and his clock does not reset. Can you hear your starter relay click? Does your clock reset? If you answer NO to both questions your problem is more likely to be with the side stand switch, clutch switch or the Starter Cutoff Relay.
petey
Well-known member
Yes, how crazy was that...and the way I found out it was the battery, my GPS which was wired directly to the battery, would reboot whenever the motor would missfire/stop running.
FJRScorpion
Well-known member
Ionbeam- Thanks for that, and I don't want to hijack the thread, but yes I had the click and the instrument cluster up and down while starting. I won't swear that the clock actually reset but the time was way off when I check it next, though. To get the bike back home, I had a fellow camper push me to start it so I could load it in the toy hauler. At home after an overnight charge, it begrudgingly started once, but not again. When I put the 'used', but fully charged battery on it, there was no love, even though I tried it with a 50amp car battery 'boost', albeit haphazardly. The bike has since set. In light of this discussion, my plan is to buy a brand new battery, install it, try again, and start looking for trouble, now, before riding season is here. Thanks for the nudge. :blink:
Geezer
Parsimonious Curmudgeon
Panman
Well-known member
I lost my relay this past summer on my 07. When this first started I though maybe the starter switch was going bad as I had to hit the button a couple of times to fire the bike.
It let me down totally so I hit it with the fifty amp boster and it started. I thought to my self that the battery was letting me down so I took it in and the battery folks told me that it was still good. They sent me with a new battery and told me to give it a try since they could see the doubt in my face and still no luck.
I do want to state that when I hit the button it looked as the whole insturment pannel shut down but don't recall that I lost the clock.
At this point the Fluke meter came out thinking that I would check the circut all the way down to the starter. The First check the power wire coming off the relay to the start was only coming up to about 3 volts knowing this was not the case as I had 13.6 across the battery and on the hot side of the relay I now new that the relay wasn't engaging all the way.
It let me down totally so I hit it with the fifty amp boster and it started. I thought to my self that the battery was letting me down so I took it in and the battery folks told me that it was still good. They sent me with a new battery and told me to give it a try since they could see the doubt in my face and still no luck.
I do want to state that when I hit the button it looked as the whole insturment pannel shut down but don't recall that I lost the clock.
At this point the Fluke meter came out thinking that I would check the circut all the way down to the starter. The First check the power wire coming off the relay to the start was only coming up to about 3 volts knowing this was not the case as I had 13.6 across the battery and on the hot side of the relay I now new that the relay wasn't engaging all the way.
FJRScorpion
Well-known member
Geezer,
Thanks for the link, the battery is on order! :clapping:
I'm both, Frugal & Cantankerous
Thanks for the link, the battery is on order! :clapping:
I'm both, Frugal & Cantankerous
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Panman's bad starter relay sounds a lot like Gilla's situation. The relay clicks but the starter motor doesn't move and the battery doesn't sack out. Regardless if it was a bad battery or a bad starter it would pull the battery voltage down and cause a reset of the trip odometer and clock.
In Scorpion's situation, the relay is heard, but then the instruments do the reset. The two most likely things causing this are a bad battery or bad starter motor. I'd definitely go with a fresh battery first.
If there is no relay click when you push the starter button then it can be any number of things that feed into the starter safety interlock circuit.
In Scorpion's situation, the relay is heard, but then the instruments do the reset. The two most likely things causing this are a bad battery or bad starter motor. I'd definitely go with a fresh battery first.
If there is no relay click when you push the starter button then it can be any number of things that feed into the starter safety interlock circuit.
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GillaFunk
Well-known member
Just for the record..... (for Mr. Fred)
I hear a single 'CLICK' not a series 'CLICKS'
Funny, since I posted this, but bike has started right up fine, no problems. :angry2: or rather :yahoo:
But I will be checking my starter relay hooya thing under my battery once I get the time to pull ALL THE ******* PLASTIC OFF.....jesus I hate that ****
I'll post an update.....once I have one
I hear a single 'CLICK' not a series 'CLICKS'
Funny, since I posted this, but bike has started right up fine, no problems. :angry2: or rather :yahoo:
But I will be checking my starter relay hooya thing under my battery once I get the time to pull ALL THE ******* PLASTIC OFF.....jesus I hate that ****
I'll post an update.....once I have one
I ***-u-me that you get a (single) click each time that you press the starter button, right?
Did it ever occur in the past where you pressed the button and got a click one (or more) times, and subsequently pressed the button and it turned over and fired up? If so, that woulkd be a symptom of a relay with degraded (or degrading) contacts.
I had this happen on my Ducati Monster many years back. But with no tupperware it was an easy fix on the Duck.
Panman
Well-known member
Not a bad fix on the FJR. It's right behind the battery to the right a bit. You might want to loosen the three screws where the fairings meet up so as the top pannel is more flexible. The relay it self is rubber mounted so pulls up fairly easy but that damm little wiring deal is a bugger!
ionbeam
2 FUN
"Give me a click, Vasili. One click only, please. . ."
In addition to what Fred W says, the one click can also occur when the starter motor has commutator problems or one motor winding is bad. Usually in this case the starter won't turn again until the motor is jarred or the vehicle moves and jars the starter causing the next pickup to contact the brushes.
Clicks: The starter relay contains an electromagnet, a ferrous pole piece which has a shorting bar and a spring around the pole piece to hold it open. The electromagnet's coil has one end connected to 12 volts all the time, ground is applied to the other end of the electromagnet on a small gauge wire when the starter button is pressed. The starter relay also has one terminal that is connected to the battery by a heavy gauge wire and a second terminal that connects to the starter motor via a heavy gauge wire. When you press the starter button ground is applied to the electromagnet in the starter relay. The electromagnet becomes energized and the resulting magnetic field draws the pole piece up, compressing the spring allowing the shorting bar to forcefully connect the battery from one terminal to the starter motor on the other terminal. High current flows through the heavy gauge battery wire, across the shorting bar inside the relay and the high current is then allowed to flow to the starter motor.
The click you hear is the pole piece and shorting bar slamming across the high current terminals in the starter relay. The fact that you hear the click means that the electromagnet part of the starter relay and the entire starting circuit is working. The problems could be that the shorting bar inside the relay may have burnt contacts, or the heavy gauge wires have a connection problem on the relay such as corrosion, burned wires at the crimp or a loose terminal. If the relay is OK there will be 12 volts supplied to the starter motor as long as the starter button is held. If there is NO 12 volts at the starter motor, the relay or the heavy gauge wires that connect between the battery to the starter relay or starter motor are bad. If there is 12 volts at the starter motor the only problem can be a bad starter motor. Since these conditions do not allow current to flow, the dash gauges and clock will not reset because they continue to have a steady 12 volts supplied.
Multiple clicks: Press the starter button, the relay's electromagnet gets energized and the shorting bar slams home (CLICK). Either a weak battery or excessive current draw causes the 12 volts going to the electromagnet to drop below 8 volts. At this dropout point the electromagnet becomes so weak that the spring forces the shorting bar to open. As soon as the shorting bar opens, the battery voltage recovers back over 8 volts, the electromagnet becomes sufficiently energized and it pulls in the shorting bar (CLICK). The voltage again drops and the relay releases the shorting bar.... repeat this cycle as long as the starter button is held or until the battery fails to recover. Because excessive current draw knocks the battery voltage down below 8 volts the ECU resets and that resets the clock causing the time to be wrong.
No clicks: Most likely there is a problem with the Starter Cutoff Relay or related circuits. Next would be a blown fuse. Bad starter button. Bad connection to the low current electromagnet in the starter relay. Bad starter relay.
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wheatonFJR
...
You know, I could learn a lot from this board if I even had the most basic understanding of electrical circuits as a prerequisite.
It's interesting reading though...I feel smarter just having read it.
It's interesting reading though...I feel smarter just having read it.
GillaFunk
Well-known member
Fookn LOVE that movie
yeah....i'll be yanking battery out and getting to that wee relay. I'll be sure to take pics.
- Funk
beemerdons
Certifiable Old Fart
+1, Gunny; Fred and Alan are damn smart, almost as sharp as rushes!
Hell's Bell's, I just noticed we went over 25 posts without repeating this photo; come on guys, someone has to cover this!
https://www.weirdthings.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/2008/05/this-kid-gets-an-eyeful-the-lucky-little-****.jpg
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wfooshee
O, Woe is me!!
"Ah, I see you have the machine that goes "click". This is my favorite. You see we lease it back from the company we sold it to and that way it comes under the monthly current budget and not the capital account."
Applause
"Thank you, thank you..."
Applause
"Thank you, thank you..."
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