Bike won't start

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SigepKat

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Rode to and from work on Monday, my bike started and ran fine. Went out this morning, turned the key and nothing happened. My initial thought was the battery, but put it on the charger and it's showing 13v (not enough to start, but enough to turn the lights on/move the guages.)It's acting like there's no battery hooked up at all, battery connections appear to be good. Anyone have any suggestions? I don't even know where to start.

Thanks,

Chris

 
can you hear the fuel pump? if not check the kill switch.

can you hear it click when you push the start button? maybe a bad starter solenoid.

need more info.

 
Nope, no fuel pump...nothing happens when you turn the key, no headlights, no gauges, nada...key in run position, key in off position - seems to make no difference to the bike...

 
Ignition switch is a double-pole design, it switches two circuits. The main circuit carries the amps for a lot of stuff on the bike and it's been known for the solder jopints on those wires to come out of the switch, rendering the switch a not-switch. Replacing the switch is a PITA, so when mine went Tango Uniform I just cut those two wires and put an external switch on them. Still need the key to run the bike because the other circuit still has to be closed, but now I have two switches, the key and the "main."

Men more anal than myself would tear the whole bike apart and replace or repair the switch, but I just don't feel like doing that much work!

Initially turning the key on you should get brief fuel pump noise along with gauge sweep and LCD on, and tail and running light. No headlights. They don't come on until the engine starts.

So: do the gauges sweep and those other thing happen? Do you hear a click under the right upper cowling when you hit the starter button?

If the gauges sweep and lights come on but no fuel pump or click, then check the kill switch. Many bikes will crank but not fire with the kill switch set, but not the FJR. It will light the check engine light if you hit the start button with the kill switch set.

If the gauges sweep and fuel pump runs, but no click on the starter button, then either the button or the relay could be bad. Button is a simple momentary contact switch, might could be cleaned. Realy is harder to work on, because it's under the bodywork.

 
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I've had "read is hard" days myself.
smile.png


 
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If it's the dreaded 'bad ignition switch', jiggling the wires coming out of the bottom of the switch while you try to start it will most likely show some kind of result.

 
The battery is reading 13 V after being on the charger? To me, that indicates a dead battery. It may show some voltage but have no capacity to produce any current - i.e. voltage drops to near zero whan any load is put on it. See what the voltage does under any load. If voltage under 4-5 amp load remains over 12 V, then I would agree that the ignition switch is most likely. Get the battery checked first, otherwise you will be wasting a lot of time chasing stuff that doesn't need fixing. Try a boost from an auto battery - or better still try starting with an auto battery after removing the battery from the bike in case the battery has a dead short.

 
The battery is reading 13 V after being on the charger? To me, that indicates a dead battery. It may show some voltage but have no capacity to produce any current...
The quick check for this would be the clock and elapsed mileage displays resetting due to low voltage.

 
Sounds like it's a bad ignition switch. There's no gauge sweep, no tail or marker lights, etc. Turn the key and nothing happens.

So, how big of a PITA is replacing the switch?

BTW, it's an 05, if that's relevant.

 
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turned the key and nothing happened...on the charger and it's showing 13v...enough to turn the lights on/move the guages...It's acting like there's no battery hooked up at all...
Nope, no fuel pump...nothing happens when you turn the key, no headlights, no gauges, nada...
Do you have a multimeter? If yes there are some checks you should make first. If no, then you are shotgun troubleshooting which can be a lot of unnecessary work and expense.

To be clear, after your no-start have you ever seen the gauges sweep, have the dash lights ever lit up?

Yes, I have a multimeter --

  • You need to check the main fuse by probing both terminals for 12 volts, do not ohm.
  • You need to check voltages at the battery with the key off and key on. Probe the battery post and not the wires. If the voltage looks good then push the starter button and see what happens.
  • If all looks good at the battery go to the fuse box and probe any one of the following fuses -- Hazard fuse; Ignition fuse; Headlight fuse; Signaling fuse. Turn on the key. If you find 12 volts the ignition switch is 50% good; fail to get any voltage the ignition switch is 100% bad.
  • If you find 12 volts on any of the above fuses you need to test the other 50% of the switch. Go to the ignition cut-off relay under the seat. Probe either the light blue/white wire or the blue/yellow wire. Turn the ignition switch on. If you find 12 volts here too the ignition switch is 100% good; if you don't find 12 volts the ignition switch is 100% bad.
  • If the ignition switch test good then we need to supply you with Troubleshooting Plan B.

Let's say the ignition switch failed one or both of the above tests --

  • remove everything so you can get to the top of the triple tree
  • remove the to of the triple tree, some special tools may be needed
  • unplug the connectors
  • drill out the security screws that hold the switch to the triple tree
  • drill out the security screws that hold the switch together
  • retain the key tumbler
  • separate the replacement ignition switch and remove the tumbler which does not match your key
  • using replacement security screws or regular hardware from Ace (or equivalent) and attach the new electrical half of the ignition switch to your old key tumbler
  • using replacement security screws or regular hardware from Ace (or equivalent) and attach the assembly to the triple tree
  • reverse the disassemble process

This outlines the troubleshooting and possible repair to give you some scale of the process. Once you have more information for us we can refine the troubleshooting and repair steps.

 
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I've got 12v at the battery, but w/the switch in the On position, I've got no voltage at any of the fuses you mentioned. So, I guess its the ignition...f.

Unless anyone has any other suggestions?

 
Did you try wiggling the wires?

If it is the ignition switch you can easily hotwire it temporarily if you so desire. There is a thread on how to do that around here somewhere.............

 
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Replaced the main fuse, still no power, so I'm assuming the switch is no bueno. Is there a walk through on replacing? (And does anyone know where the hot wire link is?)

Thanks

 
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