These Bilt jackets are probably like most other (especially lesser expensive) waterproof jackets in construction. They generally have a built in semi-porous waterproof liner layer between the outer Cordura layer and the inner mesh lining. When it rains, the outer layer tends to get soaked, but shouldn't leak through to your body since the waterproof layer is contiguous throughout the shell. However, this means that when it is hot and you open the zippered vents you do not get air flow directly to your skin, it only goes as far as the outside of the WP liner layer. Because it is semi porous there is some amount of cooling, but when it is hot what you want is direct air flow.I had the first opportunity to take the bike out yesterday evening and test the jacket before more rain came in. I had all of the vents open; arms, chest x2, and back. It felt as if I was wearing a rubber suit.Absolutely zero air flow. I thought this may be due to a couple of different reasons. The first being the FJR1300 has superior wind protection which is nice most of the time, but when its hot, it warms you up much quicker. The other reason being that the wind was not blowing in addition to the speed of the bike. I did notice with the shield raised upward there was air flow through the back of the jacket moving through the chest. I picked up a cooling vest as well as the Bilt gear last week, so I'm going to try it out on my way back to Tulsa today. It looks like I may have a chance to try out the weatherproofing part of the gear as well. The Adventure Bilt Gloves that I purchased are okay at best, and I found that the pads that sit above the first knuckle start to abraid within a short time. I honestly thought the plastic across the knuckles would be the problem, but they didn't cause any issues with me.
Unlike my wife, I sweat in almost any conditions so this may not be the best jacket/pant combo for me. I ride 12 months a year as long as there isn't ice on the road. I'd really like to see what this will do in colder weather. I'll keep everyone posted on my results after today's ride. Be safe!
To do that costs more money. You need to have the more expensive, waterproof zippers, and the waterproof layer needs to be bonded to the back side of the outside Cordura like is done with GoreTex membrane, which is a more expensive construction technique. Olympia does this also, with their own membrane (GoreTex clone) on their touring, non-mesh jackets, so you do get direct airflow when you open the vents. Plus, you don't have to pay the premium price that goes as royalty from the manufacturer to Gore Corp. I believe that the First Gear Kilimanjaro uses a similar construction, but have never owned one. It is definitely a feature that I would never be without on a touring jacket
All of that said, in hotter weather, I find that I can actually stay a little cooler on the FJR with either my old Darien (bought second hand) or my new Klim Lattitude Misano (bought on closeout for ~$350) than with any mesh gear. What you do is drop the windshield enough so you get an air blast down to your neck area, then open the neck of the jacket, and the rear vents and leave the sleeve cuffs loose. The ram air effect blasts large volumes of air under the jacket and all over your torso, vs. the with mesh the air having to work its way directly through the mesh holes.
Being a life long New England resident, I am also highly intolerant of heat. But using the ram air blast technique I can stay relatively comfortable into the low to mid 90's with no cooling vest required. Much higher than that and I just stay home.
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