wheatonFJR
...
Well, in the case of this thread...the person trying to pick it out of the master cylinder with a magnet cares...so thanks.
Bleeding clutch hydraulics
- Thread starter Constant Mesh
- Start date
Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:
Ross is (technically) correct about nickle, except... Unlike ferrous materials, Nickle is not very magnetic. In fact it is less magnetic than many types of stainless steel. If you want to try to fish a nickle out of your reservoir with a magnet on a stick you'll be there for a long time unless it's one of these:
We find all sorts of Canadian coins stuck inside of our high field strength magnets.
But I can walk in with my pockets full of US change and not feel a thing.
We find all sorts of Canadian coins stuck inside of our high field strength magnets.
But I can walk in with my pockets full of US change and not feel a thing.
RossKean
Well-known member
I can't leave stuff like this alone! Looked up composition of Canadian quarter and it's changed a number of times; I thought it was still virtually pure nickel which it was for quite a few years. Currently an "unspecified steel alloy". The magnet will almost certainly work for the current coin; less so for coins from '68 to '99 and not at all for earlier ones. Now back to the original scheduled programming...
Wikipedia:
Years Mass Diameter/Shape Composition[1]
2000–present 4.40 g 23.88 mm 94.0% steel (unspecified alloy), 3.8% copper, 2.2% nickel plating
1968–1999 5.05 g 23.88 mm 99.9% nickel
1967-1968 5.83 g 23.88 mm 50% silver, 50% copper
1953–1967 5.83 g 23.88 mm 80% silver, 20% copper
1920–1952 5.83 g 23.62 mm 80% silver, 20% copper
1910–1919 5.83 g 23.62 mm 92.5% silver, 7.5% copper
1908–1910 5.81 g 23.62 mm 92.5% silver, 7.5% copper
Wikipedia:
Years Mass Diameter/Shape Composition[1]
2000–present 4.40 g 23.88 mm 94.0% steel (unspecified alloy), 3.8% copper, 2.2% nickel plating
1968–1999 5.05 g 23.88 mm 99.9% nickel
1967-1968 5.83 g 23.88 mm 50% silver, 50% copper
1953–1967 5.83 g 23.88 mm 80% silver, 20% copper
1920–1952 5.83 g 23.62 mm 80% silver, 20% copper
1910–1919 5.83 g 23.62 mm 92.5% silver, 7.5% copper
1908–1910 5.81 g 23.62 mm 92.5% silver, 7.5% copper
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creg-ny-baa
Well-known member
Whew!
So when Canookielandians start making their coins out of recycled soda cans, they'll have finally met S. Korea on the rush to a basic coin not worth picking up when found laying on the street?
LAF
Well-known member
I just throw in a single edge razor blade to stop the geyser. And be sure to suck the old out with a baster or syringe and fill with fresh to start. Makes no sense to suck the old fluid and sludge from the bottom.
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creg-ny-baa
Well-known member
Yeah, I suspect a post of yours is the one I saw. Now I just need to find a blade. I imagine a box cutter blade would work.
LAF
Well-known member
I think they fit and may have used one over the years. Just DO NOT forget to get it out!
DAMHIK
richsp51
Well-known member
I'm about to replace my 2007 GENII clutch slave cylinder with a 2005 GENI and any advice as to the best way of dealing with the fluid during the removal/replacement of the slave would be appreciated.
I got the GENI slave off eBay and it looks to be in good condition. However, I wanted to replace the seal as recommended be done every 2 years which I imagine rarely gets done. But seeing as it's a used part I thought I'd replace it just to be safe. It doesn't appear that this seal can be purchased separately. Has anyone replaced this seal and if so, where did you purchase the replacement ?
Thanks and Merry Christmas!
I got the GENI slave off eBay and it looks to be in good condition. However, I wanted to replace the seal as recommended be done every 2 years which I imagine rarely gets done. But seeing as it's a used part I thought I'd replace it just to be safe. It doesn't appear that this seal can be purchased separately. Has anyone replaced this seal and if so, where did you purchase the replacement ?
Thanks and Merry Christmas!
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HotRodZilla
GOD BLESS AMERICA
Do you have aftermarket levers? Pazzos or the Pazzo knock-offs? Many have had adjustment/disengagement issues after switching slaves. You may need the extra adjustment provided by non-OEM levers.
richsp51
Well-known member
Yes..I've ordered Pazzo's..they are on their way to me. They should be here Monday. I'll replace the levers first, then do the slave swap-out. What I'm looking for is any advise about the procedure of replacing the slave cylinder. I assume that the entire master cylinder will empty when I remove the banjo bolt at the slave and I'm wondering if there's a trick to mitigate this.
HotRodZilla
GOD BLESS AMERICA
Yes there is. It's called a mason jar. Lol...It's gonna want to drain. Unless someone has some high speed trick, I think letting it drain is just the way it is.
dcarver
Well-known member
Prepare everything like a surgeon in an operating room and work fast.
I swapped my gen2 slave cylinder for a gen1 and barely lost a drop.
..and I purged my clutch system today just for shits,grins and giggles.
I mean what else to do after a Wed Christmas food fest?
I swapped my gen2 slave cylinder for a gen1 and barely lost a drop.
..and I purged my clutch system today just for shits,grins and giggles.
I mean what else to do after a Wed Christmas food fest?
richsp51
Well-known member
Haha...thanks\ you for the reply and the tip dcarver, you too HotRodZilla. I'll do as you suggest.
creg-ny-baa
Well-known member
Empty the MC reservoir with an ear syringe, disconnect the line at the slave end and let it drain into the jar. Install the new slave, reconnect the line (with new crush washers), leave the bleed fitting loose, with a hose attached. Fill the reservoir, and let it gravity bleed itself. Once you start getting clear(ish) fluid, tap on the slave with a screwdriver handle to bump out the bubbles in the slave housing. Complete as discussed earlier.
Go ride.
Go ride.
RaYzerman19
Go Wings!
Another option to the Canadjan quarter, use a slug from an electrical box. I'm in the Speedbleeder camp, don't need all that vac stuff..... I like the silicone hose they have too, won't fall off the bleeder.
There is also such a thing as a bleeder one can install at the master cylinder if you're concerned about a bubble up there... not sure if these fit an FJR... https://www.svracingparts.com/products/#!/~/product/category=4785185&id=20504870
Or, as some have recommended, if there is a bubble, tie the clutch (or brake) lever to the handlebar overnight and the bubble should migrate up through the master cylinder and into the reservoir.
There is also such a thing as a bleeder one can install at the master cylinder if you're concerned about a bubble up there... not sure if these fit an FJR... https://www.svracingparts.com/products/#!/~/product/category=4785185&id=20504870
Or, as some have recommended, if there is a bubble, tie the clutch (or brake) lever to the handlebar overnight and the bubble should migrate up through the master cylinder and into the reservoir.
pcarnut
Well-known member
I'm not sure why all you guys are putting razor blades, coins etc. in the reservoir. Just set the lid back on for a moment while pumping, do the bleed, add fluid as needed, done.
creg-ny-baa
Well-known member
Well, for me, it's because I can put the geyser blocking device in once and out once; I'd have to remove the cap over and over to check the fluid level. And you can't just put the cap back on; you'd have to put the diaphragm back in as well, otherwise, you shoot fluid up into the cap, which you have to clean, all while running the risk of seepage at the edge of the cap.
Razor blades, coins, etc. FTW.
HotRodZilla
GOD BLESS AMERICA
I never put anything in there. I just pull the lever gently and have never shot fluid out the top.
****...I hope my bike doesn't explode because I'm not using enough force on the lever at fluid changes...
****...I hope my bike doesn't explode because I'm not using enough force on the lever at fluid changes...
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