Bleeding clutch hydraulics

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So falls under the "ferrous" umbrella I mentioned? Gotcha.
A ferrous alloy is one that contains iron. Not necessarily magnetic (i.e. most 300 series stainless steel are not magnetic but contain over 70% iron (+ Cr, Ni, Mn etc)). On the other hand, a ferromagnetic material (like pure nickel) does not have to contain iron but is attracted by a magnet.

Semantics? Correct definition? Does it really matter? Does anyone really care?
Well, in the case of this thread...the person trying to pick it out of the master cylinder with a magnet cares...so thanks.

 
Ross is (technically) correct about nickle, except... Unlike ferrous materials, Nickle is not very magnetic. In fact it is less magnetic than many types of stainless steel. If you want to try to fish a nickle out of your reservoir with a magnet on a stick you'll be there for a long time unless it's one of these:

can5cen20.jpg


We find all sorts of Canadian coins stuck inside of our high field strength magnets.
But I can walk in with my pockets full of US change and not feel a thing.

 
So falls under the "ferrous" umbrella I mentioned? Gotcha.
A ferrous alloy is one that contains iron. Not necessarily magnetic (i.e. most 300 series stainless steel are not magnetic but contain over 70% iron (+ Cr, Ni, Mn etc)). On the other hand, a ferromagnetic material (like pure nickel) does not have to contain iron but is attracted by a magnet.

Semantics? Correct definition? Does it really matter? Does anyone really care?
i sit corrected

 
I can't leave stuff like this alone! Looked up composition of Canadian quarter and it's changed a number of times; I thought it was still virtually pure nickel which it was for quite a few years. Currently an "unspecified steel alloy". The magnet will almost certainly work for the current coin; less so for coins from '68 to '99 and not at all for earlier ones. Now back to the original scheduled programming...

Wikipedia:

Years Mass Diameter/Shape Composition[1]

2000–present 4.40 g 23.88 mm 94.0% steel (unspecified alloy), 3.8% copper, 2.2% nickel plating

1968–1999 5.05 g 23.88 mm 99.9% nickel

1967-1968 5.83 g 23.88 mm 50% silver, 50% copper

1953–1967 5.83 g 23.88 mm 80% silver, 20% copper

1920–1952 5.83 g 23.62 mm 80% silver, 20% copper

1910–1919 5.83 g 23.62 mm 92.5% silver, 7.5% copper

1908–1910 5.81 g 23.62 mm 92.5% silver, 7.5% copper

 
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So when Canookielandians start making their coins out of recycled soda cans, they'll have finally met S. Korea on the rush to a basic coin not worth picking up when found laying on the street?

 
I just throw in a single edge razor blade to stop the geyser. And be sure to suck the old out with a baster or syringe and fill with fresh to start. Makes no sense to suck the old fluid and sludge from the bottom.

 
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Yeah, I suspect a post of yours is the one I saw. Now I just need to find a blade. I imagine a box cutter blade would work.

 
I'm about to replace my 2007 GENII clutch slave cylinder with a 2005 GENI and any advice as to the best way of dealing with the fluid during the removal/replacement of the slave would be appreciated.

I got the GENI slave off eBay and it looks to be in good condition. However, I wanted to replace the seal as recommended be done every 2 years which I imagine rarely gets done. But seeing as it's a used part I thought I'd replace it just to be safe. It doesn't appear that this seal can be purchased separately. Has anyone replaced this seal and if so, where did you purchase the replacement ?

Thanks and Merry Christmas!

 
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Do you have aftermarket levers? Pazzos or the Pazzo knock-offs? Many have had adjustment/disengagement issues after switching slaves. You may need the extra adjustment provided by non-OEM levers.

 
Do you have aftermarket levers? Pazzos or the Pazzo knock-offs? Many have had adjustment/disengagement issues after switching slaves. You may need the extra adjustment provided by non-OEM levers.
Yes..I've ordered Pazzo's..they are on their way to me. They should be here Monday. I'll replace the levers first, then do the slave swap-out. What I'm looking for is any advise about the procedure of replacing the slave cylinder. I assume that the entire master cylinder will empty when I remove the banjo bolt at the slave and I'm wondering if there's a trick to mitigate this.

 
Do you have aftermarket levers? Pazzos or the Pazzo knock-offs? Many have had adjustment/disengagement issues after switching slaves. You may need the extra adjustment provided by non-OEM levers.
Yes..I've ordered Pazzo's..they are on their way to me. They should be here Monday. I'll replace the levers first, then do the slave swap-out. What I'm looking for is any advise about the procedure of replacing the slave cylinder. I assume that the entire master cylinder will empty when I remove the banjo bolt at the slave and I'm wondering if there's a trick to mitigate this.
Yes there is. It's called a mason jar. Lol...It's gonna want to drain. Unless someone has some high speed trick, I think letting it drain is just the way it is.

 
Prepare everything like a surgeon in an operating room and work fast.

I swapped my gen2 slave cylinder for a gen1 and barely lost a drop.

..and I purged my clutch system today just for *****,grins and giggles.

I mean what else to do after a Wed Christmas food fest?

 
Prepare everything like a surgeon in an operating room and work fast. I swapped my gen2 slave cylinder for a gen1 and barely lost a drop.

..and I purged my clutch system today just for *****,grins and giggles.

I mean what else to do after a Wed Christmas food fest?
Haha...thanks\ you for the reply and the tip dcarver, you too HotRodZilla. I'll do as you suggest.

 
Empty the MC reservoir with an ear syringe, disconnect the line at the slave end and let it drain into the jar. Install the new slave, reconnect the line (with new crush washers), leave the bleed fitting loose, with a hose attached. Fill the reservoir, and let it gravity bleed itself. Once you start getting clear(ish) fluid, tap on the slave with a screwdriver handle to bump out the bubbles in the slave housing. Complete as discussed earlier.

Go ride.

 
Another option to the Canadjan quarter, use a slug from an electrical box. I'm in the Speedbleeder camp, don't need all that vac stuff..... I like the silicone hose they have too, won't fall off the bleeder.

There is also such a thing as a bleeder one can install at the master cylinder if you're concerned about a bubble up there... not sure if these fit an FJR... https://www.svracingparts.com/products/#!/~/product/category=4785185&id=20504870

Or, as some have recommended, if there is a bubble, tie the clutch (or brake) lever to the handlebar overnight and the bubble should migrate up through the master cylinder and into the reservoir.

 
I'm not sure why all you guys are putting razor blades, coins etc. in the reservoir. Just set the lid back on for a moment while pumping, do the bleed, add fluid as needed, done.

 
I'm not sure why all you guys are putting razor blades, coins etc. in the reservoir. Just set the lid back on for a moment while pumping, do the bleed, add fluid as needed, done.
Well, for me, it's because I can put the geyser blocking device in once and out once; I'd have to remove the cap over and over to check the fluid level. And you can't just put the cap back on; you'd have to put the diaphragm back in as well, otherwise, you shoot fluid up into the cap, which you have to clean, all while running the risk of seepage at the edge of the cap.

Razor blades, coins, etc. FTW.

 
I never put anything in there. I just pull the lever gently and have never shot fluid out the top.

****...I hope my bike doesn't explode because I'm not using enough force on the lever at fluid changes...

 
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