Bluestreak and MCML Ride to Alaska

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MCML

Not All Who Wander Are Lost
Joined
Jun 13, 2005
Messages
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Location
Tarzana, CA USA
Click Here for Satellite Tracking Map / Google Earth View

When CFR ended on Sunday morning 21 June 2009, Bluestreak, Sacramento Mike, Highlander (two up) and I left Nakusp, BC and headed for Hyder, Alaska on an overcast morning that promised much worse weather than it delivered. We had planned to ride to Prince George but, because the weather was clear and the evening so delightful for riding, ended up spending the night in Vanderhoof, BC. The next day we rode on to Stewart, BC, checked into the Ripley Creek Inn/Bayview Hotel and settled in for a two-night stay.

I rode across the border to the Hyder side with Bluestreak and Mike. We rode out onto the pier together and I then returned to the hotel to relax while the others took a tour of Hyder. Everyone got together for a nice dinner at the Bitter Creek Inn.

Late the next morning, four of us ate a wonderful breakfast at the Silverado (I think it was called) and then rode in the rain out to the Fish Creek Observation Site to hold a brief ceremony for TWN and to scatter a small but precious cargo to the winds, the waters and the bears. Photos of that are posted elsewhere here on the Forum (Meetings, CFR, Tim Returns to Alaska).

After a brief shopping spree in the Hyder suburbs (the Central Business District was mostly boarded up), we rode back to the hotel, relaxed, shared some Guinness and headed to dinner again at the Bitter Creek. After dinner, we said good-bye to Mike who was sleeping in the next morning, and turned in.

At eight the next morning (no longer raining), four people on three bikes headed east past the glacier to Meziadin Junction where, amid the swarming mosquitoes, hugs were exchanged along with see-you-soons. Dave and Diane turned south toward home and Steve and I headed north up the Stewart Cassiar Highway.

When I had first read about Highway 37 I was, quite frankly, intimidated. On Wednesday 24 June 2009, however, the weather was clear and the ride was delightful. We saw a mother bear with two cubs, we rode past snow capped mountains and we saw lakes and forests. The road south of Iskut is all paved and in pretty good shape except for a couple of sports where repairs were being done. North of Iskut there were some stretches of gavel, and a bit of mud, but nothing too trying.

The night was spent in Watson Lake, where, after a visit to Andrew Knight's sign at the Signpost Forest, we checked into the Air Force Lodge which was originally built to house pilots shuttling airplanes to Russia during World War Two (remember learning about the Lend Lease Act in history class?). A long walk to dinner ensued (a bus tour had taken over a nearer restaurant until closing). We shared the meal, and information, with a couple of Brits who were staying at the lodge and who had just ridden south.

The next morning (clear again, our luck was holding) we headed west and ended up riding all the way to Beaver Creek on the Yukon Territory/Alaska border. The next morning, Friday 26 June, greeted us with rain. Oh well, nothing we cannot deal with. Gear up. Gas up. Head out. Luck runs out.

Twenty miles later, cold and wet in places, we crossed back into the USA. Fifty miles later, after rain, hail and, yes, snow (at about the 2,000 foot level and higher). Things were definitely uncomfortable. Let's face it, although we are well prepared we are cold. If the guy who gave the speech about the "one-eighty back to the airport" can barely squeeze the clutch lever maybe he should heed his own advice. My '04 is showing a single bar on the temperature gague. Where is that infamous Gen I heat when you need it? Steve, who has been riding for forty-five years, says he was as miserable and as cold as he has been in a long, long while. We stopped for lunch in Tok, a hundred miles from Beaver Creek. Feeling began to return to the hands which were wrapped around cup after cup of coffee/decaf. At the next table sat a couple of veteran locals who told us that it was undoubtedly snowing in the mountain passes en route to Valdez and likely not much better on the way to Fairbanks.

So, here we sit at the Snowshoe Motel in Tok. Warm, dry, and typing this report. The forecast looks better for the next couple of days so we are headed for Valdez tomorrow. Or, if the weather reports look really good (unlikely) we might head for Fairbanks and points north (it was 1degree celcius in Deadhorse a few days agao). So, the plan is for some mix of Valdez, Anchorage, Denali, Fairbanks, and Deadhorse before heading south via Dawson (perhaps for the 4th of July bash there, which is odd because Dawson is in the Yukon not the U.S.).

The connection here is extremely slow but I think that I can post some photos. More down the road when this thread is updated.

Barbarus and DCarver at CFR

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Kitwanga Juntion (Canada 16 and 37) - Ready to Head North

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The Highlanders Head for Hyder

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Meziadin Junction - 37A West to Stewart/Hyder 37 Cassiar Highway North to Watson Lake

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The Bear Glacier Outside of Stewart/Hyder

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Mike and Steve Reach Hyder, Alaska!

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The "Bear Walk" outside Hyder, Alaska

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The Bears Walking - Steve Was Able to Take This Shot While Moving

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Gasing Up in Iskut

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North of Iskut - What's So Tough About This Road (at least today)

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One of the Mandatory Construction Delays

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Welcom To The Yukon Territory

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Now, Behave Yourselves

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The Signpost Forest in Watson Lake, Yukon Territory

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Great write up MCML. It was nice to meet you at CFR. I'm sure our paths will cross again in the future, ride safe!

 
Congratulations to dos motoristas intrépidos. It sounds like you're having quite an adventure and I am sure enjoying reading your reports.

 
The Bear Glacier photo is beautiful. Good to see you old buddy. Hope to see you again soon.

 
Joseph the photo that shows Hyder town limits also has a sign 'Entering Alaska'. Is there no formal border crossing? Passports, Homeland Security and all that?

Great ride report. I look forward to more.

gypsy

 
Thanks to you all for your kind words. This afternoon, the time I could not spend riding I got to spend writing. It's nice that it is appreciated.

Gypsy, oddly Homeland Security does not seem to care if Hyder is attacked so you just drive right out of Canada and into the USA. Crossing back into Canada, though (and you have to because there is nowhere to go from Hyder except back into Stewart, BC) there is a manned (womaned this trip both times) border crossing. They check passports and ask the usual questions. "Where are you headed?" "Weapons, drugs, alcohol?" "Where are you coming from?" It takes a good deal of self-restraint not to wisecrack. Imagine the kudos if you catch a bad guy trying to enter Canada! Imagine how badly one has to mess up to get exiled to that posting in the first place!

 
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I have never heard of this Signpost Forest. I can see there are a lot of signs but do people just put up their own signs? Does anyone know how this tradition began?

Thanks

gypsy

 
Joseph and team, above all, ride safe.

Damn I wish I was there. Cold, wet, tired, so what - you did it while others (me) live vicariously through your ride and writings.

WOW. :yahoo:

Now to the maps to see exactly where you are / have been. Once again, ride safe.

 
Thanks for the stories and pictures, Joe. It's great that Andrew's got his own special place in the Signpost Forest.

I have never heard of this Signpost Forest. I can see there are a lot of signs but do people just put up their own signs? Does anyone know how this tradition began?
From https://www.yukoninfo.com/watson/signpostforest.htm:

  • The forest was started in 1942 by a homesick U.S. Army G.I., Carl K. Lindley of Danville, Il., Company D, 341st Engineers. While working on the Alaska Highway, he erected a sign here pointing the way and stating the mileage to his hometown. Others followed his lead and are still doing so to this day. On July 20, 1990, Olen and Anita Walker of Bryan, Ohio placed the 10,000th sign. Carl K. Lindley and his wife visited the site in 1992, 50 years after his first post was erected. Today there are over 40,000 signs.

 
Today Alaska, tomorrow = another road to somewhere?

Kudos, and try to bring a couple of bears back to Cal as pillions will you guys. You do have Russell Day Long seats right?

 
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Great report, Joseph. Following it now as I have a few moments. It's HOT down here in the Sacramento area, so the cool weather sounds inviting. In case any of you aren't sure, crashing has not been permitted for this trip.

 
Man, you guys. It's downright HUMBLING to see where you went after I turned back. I can say I rode "to" Alaska, but you two really DID Alaska! Congratulations! I'd love to "fly along" overhead, but wherever you are at this writing per your SPOT map is so far out of the way that the resolution in Google Earth completely blurs out at about FIVE MILES altitude! I can only dream of the incredible sights you're seeing. And of course, of the cold rain and snow you're enjoying along the way. :p

Well, just keep being safe, and be ready to spend a LOT of time in front of the computer to post pictures when it's all over. And for the little bit of your adventure I shared, it was great to ride with you.

 
You guyz went all the way to Prudhoe via the Dalton?

I am not worthy!

Now, get to typing, I see you lurking, Joseph! :lol:

 
Click Here for Satellite Tracking Map / Google Earth View

We are presently back in Tok after having been to Valdez, Anchorage, Homer, Denali, Coldfoot/Wiseman and Deadhorse. There is much to tell but I am exhausted and once again the internet connection is terrible (for example, neither of us can access our e-mail accounts due to the slow speed).

In case any of you aren't sure, crashing has not been permitted for this trip.
Rich, I wish that I would have had internet service the past several days so that I would have known. Twenty miles south of Deadhorse (95% of the way up that freaking "road") yours truly did a 35 mph tankslapper in the thick gravel. Highsided. FJR went left, I went right. All the gear worked as advertised (Held Phantom golves, Cycleport jacket and pants, Shoei X-11, Daytona boots) and I was unhurt. I have taken worse falls on the ski hill! The bike is gonna need some work, though. It is, obviously, ride-able or I would not be in Tok. I will post the details later about the kind folks far up north who helped me out.

For now, I will try to post this to the thread and will add some text that I wrote several days on the word processor but could not post until now.

"Irony can be pretty ironic sometimes"

- William Shatner as Commander Buck Murdock in Airplane II

Remember the photo of the radar detector sign as we crossed into the Yukon. Well, we were now in Alaska so Steve’s Valentine was once again legal.

We awoke in Tok to the same rain storm that had halted our progress the previous day. We geared up, took the covers off the bikes, loaded the bikes and went looking for rubber gloves to wear over our motorcycle gloves. After stopping at two stores that would not open for another half-hour we hit the road with the gear we had although I now wore Gyno gloves (or, to be an equal opportunity offender, Procto gloves) over my Held Phantoms.

The first part of the ride was uncomfortable but not as bad as the previous day’s ride had been. As we gained altitude, however, sleet coated trees began to appear by the roadside and, a bit later, snow covered the shoulders and slush streaked the road surface. As we dropped back down a bit things improved and an hour or so later the weather was cool but it was not raining.

We followed a Subaru "rabbit" for a while and laughed when we saw a cop pull on to the highway near Glennallen and pull the "rabbit" over. Those whom the gods would humble they first make proud.

We stopped for fuel in Glennallen, rode south about ten miles to a hardware store where our search for gloves continued unsuccessfully. While I was in the store, Steve fiddled with his radar detector and Autocom set-up because he was not able to get an audio signal through his headphones. Hold on, you're way ahead of me.

We pulled off the road at Copper Center for a nice lunch at an RV park/fish camp and then pulled back onto the highway. Ten minutes later Officer Steen introduced himself to us. Busted for doing 65 on a 55 mph highway with nothing for miles in either direction. Okay, you can stop laughing now, especially you, Richard! Not a warning. A four point ticket. Oh, well, we are going to see if we can plead traffic school. How I spent my Alaskan vacation.

After bidding us goodbye with a "Have a better rest of the day" Officer Steen headed north and we continued south, over the mountains to Valdez. The scenery was beautiful. We stopped at the ferry terminal, check out the schedules and decided to head back the way we had come to Glennallen for the night.

We stayed at the Annex of the Caribou Lodge which was originally built for the oil pipeline workers in the 1970’s. Pretty basic accommodations even for a couple of grizzled veterans. The next day we rode on to Anchorage and then south to Homer.

Homer lies amidst one of the most gorgeous natural settings I have ever been privileged to have seen. Snow and glacier covered mountains ring a bay and a sand spit. Just delightful. That night we stayed at the local Best Western which seems palatial after the Annex.

 
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Two great guys out on my kind of ride!! I hope you are having a ball and getting some good weather along the way. My trip at this time 2006 gave me 1/2 day of sunshine going and 1/2 day af clear skies returning. The moment I crossed Atigon Pass I got snow and slush both ways never seeing more than fifty or so feet away.

So I am looking forward to your pictures with great anticipation. Ride well and be safe. I'm more than totally impressed.

Alan

 
Well, Joseph, no "what I did on my Alaskan vacation" would be complete without tales of adventure like performance awards and tankslappers. But high siding IS prohibited -- glad you are ok, but don't do it again.

For Steve -- I talked to Dean at Roseville Yamaha on the phone and then in person yesterday (and Pete, the sales manager while there), largely to set up appt. to bring my ticker in, but: "remember the other '05 that was in here with mine? OEM plugs and fork oil still in it at 55K miles, fork seal gone, needed valve adjustment and more? Well, as of last night, according to the spot tracker, it was in Prudhoe Bay and looks to be around Fairbanks about now. The way he's putting miles on it, you may have it in for the scheduled 110K mile checkup before you know it." :lol: Made them both envious of you guys (I'm already in that camp).

This doesn't sound like a trip you'll run out of memories or stories about for the rest of your days. Way to go guys! May the rest of the trip be a safe one.

 

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