norcal1
Well-known member
Today I was trying to remove my bikes battry. The bolt holding the clamp together won't budge. Not even one tiny bit. There is no rust or corrosion in the area..
Any ideas? :blink:
Any ideas? :blink:
Bolt won't budge
- Thread starter norcal1
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Try some type of penetrating oil/spray on it? Maybe just need to put a wrench on the bolt and give it few taps with a hammer?
0Face
Well-known member
Sell the bike and get a new one?
lnewlf
Well-known member
righty tighty, lefty loosey :biggrinsmiley:
righty tighty, lefty loosey :biggrinsmiley:
righty tighty, lefty loosey :biggrinsmiley:
I like Kroil (Kanolabs) also. Works well.
HotRodZilla
GOD BLESS AMERICA
Use a torch!
Kroil is the shiznit! A little dab'll do ya....
Bustanut joker
Well-known member
Yer a real fart smucker ya know it?
Tossing around a flame on top of the battery?His lawyers will be in contact
TheZsdad
Mr. Bill goes for a ride!
garyahouse
newbs need the forum
+1 on the Kroil recommendation. As far as I know, it's the best commercially available penetrating oil on the market. However, there's an even better product... well, sort of. Read on:
Penetrating oil 101
Trusted solutions to rusted delusions
We’ve all been there. It’s late at night, I’ve got a couple more rusted bolts to remove and I can finish up for the night. I spray on a little WD 40, grab a quick coffee, and after a brief soak, begin removing the last two bolts. SSNNAAPP!!! Since I try real hard not to swear, the scope of words I can choose at this moment is rather sparse. DAG NABBIT… DOGGONE IT!!. Wise old Chinese mechanic say, “Only tin worse den rusted bolt is busted bolt.”
So I got to thinking… I wonder if there’s a product out there that can loosen up these crusty old bolts a little better. Has anybody out there done some REAL research, or do I just ask for opinions on my favorite forum? So, after doing a little research, I discovered that there are as many opinions as there are products. Everybody claims that Brand A,B or C is the best penetrating oil.
We all know that if you can get an oxy-acetylene torch on the thing, it’ll loosen it right up. It’s still the best solution for loosening rusted bolts. But since most of us don’t have one handy, what products are available that will do the job? Is it true that most penetrant sprays are pretty much the same? Does anybody know for sure? Here’s what I found:
The following information has been on the web for several years now.
According to several websites, the April/May 2007 issue of Machinist Workshop magazine tested several popular penetrating oils for their ability to loosen rusted nuts in a controlled environment. Using ½ inch nuts torqued to 50 ft/lbs and treated with a 10% saltwater solution that was allowed to rust, their results were:
Penetrating oil . Torque req’d..... Price per ounce
None ................ 516 pounds
WD-40 ............. 238 pounds..... $0.25
PB Blaster ....... 214 pounds..... $0.35
Liquid Wrench ... 127 pounds..... $0.21
Kroil ................... 106 pounds..... $0.75
ATF/acetone mix… 53 pounds..... $0.10
The winner was an ATF-acetone mix (50/50) mix. Blog entries from various websites pointed out that the acetone, which is a GREAT penetrant, caries the ATF deep into the threads.
A little advice:
-Since acetone evaporates so quickly, it leaves the ATF behind to do the work. Remember, acetone, is nasty stuff. You don’t want it on your skin or in your eyes. You know the drill, use with caution in a well-ventilated area as with all flammable vapors. And do not get this stuff on plastic or painted surfaces.
-thread locker cement requires a little heat. Put the torch to it.
-for really stubborn screws, try this: apply some heat, then quench it with Kroil. However, do not try this with the acetone/ATF mix. Acetone and heat are a bad idea.
Gary
darksider 344
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Road_Runner
Accelerati Incredibilus
Whaddua mean it won't budge? That's a pretty small bolt. Can you get to thhe other side opf the bolt? With some penetrating and a wrench or some vise grips on the other side you should have no problem persuading it to turn.
dsmack
"Old, Slow, but Lucky"
I've been a long time user of many penetrating fluids, with varying successes.
#1: **** can any container of WD-40. It is the poorest excuse of any of the products listed. May suffice for bathroom door hinge pins, if you are lucky and the moon is in the right quadrant when applied.
#2: If you are lucky, your arsenal of penetrating fluids includes an unassuming little orange and white can labeled Kano Labs KROIL Penetrating Oil. Use it. End of problem ~ 95% of time. Excellent stuff!
#3: If your can of KROIL is empty because your cat knocked it over on the shelf and you had not replaced the protective cap,
Try PB Blaster. It is OK, and I have had many successes with it, but I don't like the spray can because it wastes too much, and the KROIL just works better.
If none of the above work, you are going to be reduced to trying heat, which will screw up the finish on not only the bolt, but surrounding parts/pieces as well.
Trust all the above recommendations for the KROIL... they are NOT just blowing smoke up your kilt... the stuff works! :yahoo:
Don
#1: **** can any container of WD-40. It is the poorest excuse of any of the products listed. May suffice for bathroom door hinge pins, if you are lucky and the moon is in the right quadrant when applied.
#2: If you are lucky, your arsenal of penetrating fluids includes an unassuming little orange and white can labeled Kano Labs KROIL Penetrating Oil. Use it. End of problem ~ 95% of time. Excellent stuff!
#3: If your can of KROIL is empty because your cat knocked it over on the shelf and you had not replaced the protective cap,
Try PB Blaster. It is OK, and I have had many successes with it, but I don't like the spray can because it wastes too much, and the KROIL just works better.
If none of the above work, you are going to be reduced to trying heat, which will screw up the finish on not only the bolt, but surrounding parts/pieces as well.
Trust all the above recommendations for the KROIL... they are NOT just blowing smoke up your kilt... the stuff works! :yahoo:
Don
good stuff all... interested in the ATF/Acetone blend...
regarding putting heat to a bolt in an area that cannot tolerate a flame:
take a soldering iron and apply the tip to the thread or bolt head, whatevers exposed... hold it there.
it will achieve a similar result, though not as quickly of "opening up" the metal/metal contact a bit and can enhance penetration of whatever oil you are using...
and once again, Kroil rocks...
regarding putting heat to a bolt in an area that cannot tolerate a flame:
take a soldering iron and apply the tip to the thread or bolt head, whatevers exposed... hold it there.
it will achieve a similar result, though not as quickly of "opening up" the metal/metal contact a bit and can enhance penetration of whatever oil you are using...
and once again, Kroil rocks...
mferriter
Occasionally trying to get work done
Be careful with anything with acetone in it around painted parts and plastic. It's a really good solvent for these things - including the plastic cover for your battery and the nice shiny finish on your bike.
Have you tried a bigger wrench, or a breaker bar? They're great for breaking the heads off bolts, then you can practice using an Easy-Out!
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NMRoadRunner
A Bulls work is never done!
Been using Kroil since the 70s, rebuilding rock crushers back when they repaired the roads here in the US. If it works there, it'll work anywhere!
I checked with our senior materials/chemistry guy: His thoughts on the topic:
I’m not surprised that ATF/acetone work better than WD-40.
WD-40 was developed back in the 50’s and stands for "Water Displacement, 40th formula"; the main ingredient I believe is Stoddard solvent, which is a light hydrocarbon. It has good penetrating power because of its relatively low molecular weight but it is “oily”, which is why it displaces water. It works OK for what it was designed for as well as many household uses but it was never optimized for freeing rusted bolts.
On the other hand, ATF is also an oil but its chemical functionality is much more polar than WD-40. The polar functional groups are often located at the ends of long dangling hydrocarbon groups so that they interact with polar groups on the friction surface of an automatic transmission torque converter. It would have an easier time wetting rusted surfaces because of the oxygen in iron oxide. Acetone is also a polar material but is very volatile, which is why it makes an excellent solvent for the ATF; it carries the ATF deep into rusted parts and then flashes off leaving behind a well wetted oily ATF that serves as a lubricant when backing out the bolt.
Just in case you were wondering.
I'm glad there are lots of smart folks out there that figure this stuff out.
I’m not surprised that ATF/acetone work better than WD-40.
WD-40 was developed back in the 50’s and stands for "Water Displacement, 40th formula"; the main ingredient I believe is Stoddard solvent, which is a light hydrocarbon. It has good penetrating power because of its relatively low molecular weight but it is “oily”, which is why it displaces water. It works OK for what it was designed for as well as many household uses but it was never optimized for freeing rusted bolts.
On the other hand, ATF is also an oil but its chemical functionality is much more polar than WD-40. The polar functional groups are often located at the ends of long dangling hydrocarbon groups so that they interact with polar groups on the friction surface of an automatic transmission torque converter. It would have an easier time wetting rusted surfaces because of the oxygen in iron oxide. Acetone is also a polar material but is very volatile, which is why it makes an excellent solvent for the ATF; it carries the ATF deep into rusted parts and then flashes off leaving behind a well wetted oily ATF that serves as a lubricant when backing out the bolt.
Just in case you were wondering.
I'm glad there are lots of smart folks out there that figure this stuff out.
garyahouse
newbs need the forum
Was talking to a friend recently and I mentioned the acetone/ATF mix. He told me he knew all about it. I was a little shocked, as most people have not. He told the story of having used it for years with amazing results. He didn't seem to know much about the online research on the web about it, but instead had learned about it many years ago from his father.
Some considerations: Acetone evaporates extremely quickly. That means that letting something soak over time won't work. Also, it doesn't play well with others: especially if those others are open flame, hot exhaust, paint or most plastics.
By the way, you'll have to shake them up real well just before using. The mixture is just like so many products that recommend that you shake before using.
Gary
Some considerations: Acetone evaporates extremely quickly. That means that letting something soak over time won't work. Also, it doesn't play well with others: especially if those others are open flame, hot exhaust, paint or most plastics.
By the way, you'll have to shake them up real well just before using. The mixture is just like so many products that recommend that you shake before using.
Gary
