Botched 06A Ignition Switch Recall

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jwit6

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Need some help here. The dealer tech decided to cut the pigtail on the original switch in order to make it easier to remove. Don't ask me how this would have helped, but he did it anyway. It was cut while the switch was still connected up to the main harness and the battery was still in the bike. The new switch was then installed. Now you can start the bike, but only in neutral, but as soon as you pull in the clutch and slip it into gear, the engine cuts out immediately. It won't crank when in gear even with the clutch lever pulled in. So I think there is something wrong with the interlock/safety start relays associated with the clutch lever, gear position sensor and side stand switch circuitry. There may even be a problem with the ECU, but I'm not sure without a good wiring diagram. It seems when he cut the pigtail with his side cutters, he back fed 12 volts through all the wires in the switch pigtail and toasted something.

After 5 hours in the waiting room at the dealer I talked my way in to the shop and found out what happened. They're tearing the bike apart and really don't even know what they're looking for. It's pretty brutal to watch. The bike is good and f'd up now. Sad to see it sitting there with an oil can wedged between the tank and the foam/foil engine heat insulator all smashed and folded up.

They were already on the phone with yamaha tech and they had nothing to offer. Any ideas on what to look for would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Admin Note: This thread is about the specific botching of a repair job. See this thread about the recall.

 
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I would look for a new mechanic. Sorry to be a smart *** being a FNG but I couldn't pass it up. But seriously I wish you good luck getting it cured.

 
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The dealer tech decided to cut the pigtail on the original switch in order to make it easier to remove.
Oops....and they had such a detailed and specific technical bulletin to follow. Oh well. There's a lesson they've learned......with your patience as collateral damage.

Now you can start the bike, but only in neutral, but as soon as you pull in the clutch and slip it into gear, the engine cuts out immediately.
Maybe a total coincidence and the chances or small, but maybe a faulty sidestand switch. If you had described all this independent of their changing the switch out...it's the first thing I would have though of.

 
Pretty unforgivable, but at the risk of being crude, it's their problem. If you stick your hands in the tar baby, expect to make a mess and get stuck at this point. However, before accepting the bike, I'd make sure to have them show me (tank lifted) that there are no new splices or other workmanship botches.

Then never go back.

 
IIRC 4 wires input to the switch;

2 power wires

2 interlock wires for things like side stand switch? Me thinks I'd make sure them two were electrically connected.

.02 backyard worth.. :rolleyes:

 
Something similar happened to mine on the first switch failure and I believe there is a "relay unit" somewhere in the vicinity of the headlights that was fryed....I seem to remember it working in conjunction with the clutch switch, sidestand switch, neutral switch, and the starting circuit cutoff. My memory is definitely not as good as it used to be though so the information might be totally wrong. :unsure:

 
Something similar happened to mine on the first switch failure and I believe there is a "relay unit" somewhere in the vicinity of the headlights that was fryed....I seem to remember it working in conjunction with the clutch switch, sidestand switch, neutral switch, and the starting circuit cutoff. My memory is definitely not as good as it used to be though so the information might be totally wrong. :unsure:
Axe got it all correct. In Gen I parlance it is called a Starting Circuit Cut-Off Relay; Gen II simplifies life and calls it a Relay Unit. This relay has a wire going to the Ignition Switch.

Another thing to to verify is that the butchers hackers numbnuts mechanics haven't caused a problem with the clutch switch on the handlebar.

 
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Sorry to hear about your problem, hope they fix it. This is precisely why i will hold off having these (they are everywhere, especially in Floriduh) butchers touch my bike. I have the Brodie relay installed so will wait until or more like if the IS gives me problems, or until i can find a dealer who let's me do the swap myself.

 
I'm getting ready to take mine in next week.

Thanks for the post as I will ask a few questions instead of just dropping it off. They said they can't order the part until they have the bike and it should take a week. I"m out of town for a few days so the timing works.

I will ask about the tech spec and how they plan on doing it correctly.

 
They said they can't order the part until they have the bike and it should take a week. I"m out of town for a few days so the timing works.I will ask about the tech spec and how they plan on doing it correctly.
They're fibbing on that one. They can order a kit without having the bike in their possession.....they just won't. It's a $35.71 kit.

If they won't do that for you...especially on an issue that is safety related as this one....I would reconsider using them.

Chances are they haven't done this fix yet or probably even looked at the actual bulletin.

 
Just dropped mine off yesterday. If they don't get it back to perfect, I'd be asking for a new bike. Better stick to your guns on this one!

Good luck,

Murph

 
You guys are scaring me. I'm planning to drop my '08 off at the selling dealer in Chesterfield (St. Louis) Saturday. They have ordered kits, but haven't done one yet. It is possible mine would be the first. Go for it or wait?

 
You guys are scaring me. I'm planning to drop my '08 off at the selling dealer in Chesterfield (St. Louis) Saturday. They have ordered kits, but haven't done one yet. It is possible mine would be the first. Go for it or wait?

You might suggest that they RTFM before tearing into it.

As to FJR1300Mark - That's BS about not being able to order the kit before hand. Start a Repair Order, they get the VIN and other info, you sign it, then tell them to call you when the parts are in. If they refuse, speak to the manager or owner, and calmly tell them what you have been told, and that you'll never darken their doorway again, then leave.

Far too often a bike dealer keeps bikes for weeks because they are lazy SOBs that won't stock parts or order them for customers in advance. That's weeks you are w/o your ride. Unacceptable. Give your money to someone that understands you bought your bike to ride, not to park in their dealership.

 
Hey jwit6...I notice you're from NE OH. When I talked to my dealer late last week, they said that someone had dropped their bike off for the recall work - was that yours? What dealer effed up your bike? Let me know so I can avoid them!

 
My local dealer, the one I bought the bike from, called me and let me know they had ordered a recall kit and would call me when it arrived. They called me to set up an appointment. They will do it Saturday morning. They say I should be able to pick it up in the afternoon. I did not start the process and the shop has initiated all of the recall steps. I don't know if they will do the repair properly but they have been a class act so far.

They do not have to have the bike to order the part.

 
I heard from my friend with an '07 today that the Dealers are only getting 1 hour of labor time for the ignition switch recalls. It takes more than that, so this might partly explain some of the issues we are reading about with corner cutting.

 
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