Brake bleeding on an 05

[SigepKat]

Am I missing something here? I've bled both front calipers, there's no air in the line that I can tell and I still don't have front brakes...I don't have speed bleeders or a mityvac. Is there some technique I'm supposed to use or should I just hang up the wrenches (or, in this case, the tube and bottle.)

Thanks

Chris

 

[GPRIDER]

Gen I FJRs are fairly easy to bleed. Strange that you don't have front brakes. May still be air in the lines. I have a mighty vac, but used to do them the old fashioned way and never had any problems. If you have original brake lines, there's a possibility the lines could be expanding. I had a Yamaha Venture that did that and I replaced the OEM lines with steel braided ones. Night and day difference. Hope this helps some. If not, I'm sure someone else will chime in.

GP

 

[SkooterG]

What procedure are you using for bleeding?

 

[SigepKat]

I think I did right side then left side,then done...Is 3 steps a procedure?

CM

 

[SkooterG]

What I meant was: While you are performing your bleed are you closing the bleed nipple before letting the lever retract? Making sure no air is re-introduced into the system? How much fluid did you run through the lines? Were you having problems with your brakes before the bleed? How long since the last brake bleed?

When you say you have no brakes, what exactly does that mean? Lever goes to grip with no resistance whatsoever? Brakes are not squeezing at all? Pumping doesn't help?

To help you diagnose your problem, you need to provide more information other than 'don't have front brakes'.

 

[SigepKat]

Yes, standard bleeding procedure, squeeze lever, open screw, let air/fluid out, close screw, release lever, repeat. No real problems with brakes before, just seemed like a good time to replace the fluid.

When I say no brakes, I mean, a small amount of feedback when lever is 3/4 of the way to the grip. at that point there is some braking but no where near what it should be. I've pumped them plenty, still no change.

 

[wfooshee]

Some have bungied the brake lever to the grip overnight, the theory being that air in the lines that refuses to pump into the caliper and out the screw (bubble moves, then floats back up between cycles, staying pretty much where it is while you "bleed" the system) will eventually bubble back up into the master cylinder. Those that say to do the procedure swear it helps. Personally, I've not seen it. My own brakes are softer than before the flush and bleed, but not so much to be called actually soft. Someone who didn't ride the bike before would think nothing of the feel right now. but it can't hurt.

Squeeze the brake lever and wrap it with something to hold it squeezed overnight. Release it in the morning and see if it's better.

 

[escapefjrtist]

Instead of the old pump / release, pump / release try this.

-Get a good clear length of vinyl tubing that fits tightly over the nipple.

-Clear container, add an inch or two new fluid.

-Box end wrench and vinyl tubing over the nipple.

-Put tubing end in container with new fluid. Fluid provides a seal against air.

-Pump/release once or twice, just enough to get fluid in tubing.

-Crack bleeder, keep the master cylinder full, and slowly pump the brake lever.

-When you've pumped fluid and the bubbles are gone, hold the lever and tighten the bleeder.

I've been using this method since a buddy convinced me it works. Problem with the pump/release, is the threads on the bleeders are loose enough to let air past them if you're not super careful. It'll drive you nuts...trust me on this!

Good luck.

--G

 

[Donal]

If you choose not to install speed bleeders that's fine. However you really should find a suitable thread sealant similar to the sealant installed on the speed bleeders. This stuff really works and can make all the difference no matter which method you use

Don

 

[Donal]

Some have bungied the brake lever to the grip overnight, the theory being that air in the lines that refuses to pump into the caliper and out the screw (bubble moves, then floats back up between cycles, staying pretty much where it is while you "bleed" the system) will eventually bubble back up into the master cylinder. Those that say to do the procedure swear it helps. Personally, I've not seen it. My own brakes are softer than before the flush and bleed, but not so much to be called actually soft. Someone who didn't ride the bike before would think nothing of the feel right now. but it can't hurt.

Squeeze the brake lever and wrap it with something to hold it squeezed overnight. Release it in the morning and see if it's better.

I have heard of this procedure before and those that use it, swear by it, haven't used it myself.

When I tried to rationalise it, I just couldn't understand how it could work. Once the brake lever is squeezed then there is no way for the air to escape, it's a closed, pressurised system. Then the penny dropped; when you put the squeeze on, the air bubble(s) are compressed and being much smaller are more likely to 'float' to the top. They collect there until you release the brake lever. At that point they will come out naturally through the now open return port.

One addition to the procedure is to 'tap' the calliper and lines to help dislodge any trapped air. I guess the important bit is to leave it overnight in the compressed state. :blink:

Don

 

[Harald]

If you choose not to install speed bleeders that's fine. However you really should find a suitable thread sealant similar to the sealant installed on the speed bleeders. This stuff really works and can make all the difference no matter which method you use

Don

Anybody know the name of a suitable sealant? I've always just smeared some wheel bearing grease around the threads when air is getting sucked past there using a mity-vac, but a sealant would be easier and less messy.

 

[wfooshee]

Teflon tape on the threads, like for water pipes?

 

[Donal]

If you choose not to install speed bleeders that's fine. However you really should find a suitable thread sealant similar to the sealant installed on the speed bleeders. This stuff really works and can make all the difference no matter which method you use

Don

Anybody know the name of a suitable sealant? I've always just smeared some wheel bearing grease around the threads when air is getting sucked past there using a mity-vac, but a sealant would be easier and less messy.

You can get some here. There should be a way to find it on the Speed Bleeder site but............................. Edit: finally found it here

Don