Brake Job - Need confirmation of these parts

[Rider_FJR]

I own a 2007 FJR and looking to do front and rear brakes.

Before I place my order. Is these the correct quantity of parts which I need?

 

[RossKean]

Assume you are changing coolant at the same time (Yamacool)??? I usually only do coolant when I do a valve clearance check since the coolant has to be drained at that time anyway.

Probably should take the opportunity to flush brake systems (and clutch) while you are at it so you should pick up some DOT4 brake fluid at your local car place. Remember to bleed the left front caliper from the front brake lever and the upper right front caliper bleeder with the front brake lever. There is a second bleeder on the right caliper (lower) which is bled using the rear brake pedal (as is the rear brake caliper). (Part of the linked braking system) Clean and lube front brake lever, clutch lever (make sure you do the brass bushing) and the rear brake pivot. Clean/lube shifter linkage too.

Brake pad kits are correct and are the right quantities.
Personally, I use EBC HH sintered pads at about half the cost - (the EBC fronts come four pads per pack unlike the Yamaha are 2 pads per pack). It is all I have ever used on my FJRs. I check front pads with every tire change and swap inside-outside if they are wearing unevenly.

In 185,000 miles on my '07, I NEVER replaced the "Pad Support" Clean them up with some brake cleaner and paper towel and they will be good to go.

When you have the calipers out, extend the pistons (carefully) and wipe down the sides with a soft cloth before pushing them back in. (Don't push them out too far or you will have a mess.) You don't want to push dirt past the seals (new pads are thicker)! Careful removing the slide pins. They are sometimes difficult to break loose and the Allen socket heads can get messed up. I clean the pins and lube lightly with silicone grease. A very small amount of anti-seize on the threads may help future removal.

I only went into this much detail because you seemed uncertain about the parts - first time changing pads on the FJR? Ask away if you have any questions.
If you are experienced with this stuff but just wanted part verification then I apologize for the long and unnecessary post.

 

[Rider_FJR]

Assume you are changing coolant at the same time (Yamacool)??? I usually only do coolant when I do a valve clearance check since the coolant has to be drained at that time anyway.

Probably should take the opportunity to flush brake systems (and clutch) while you are at it so you should pick up some DOT4 brake fluid at your local car place. Remember to bleed the left front caliper from the front brake lever and the upper right front caliper bleeder with the front brake lever. There is a second bleeder on the right caliper (lower) which is bled using the rear brake pedal (as is the rear brake caliper). (Part of the linked braking system) Clean and lube front brake lever, clutch lever (make sure you do the brass bushing) and the rear brake pivot. Clean/lube shifter linkage too.

Brake pad kits are correct and are the right quantities.
Personally, I use EBC HH sintered pads at about half the cost - (the EBC fronts come four pads per pack unlike the Yamaha are 2 pads per pack). It is all I have ever used on my FJRs. I check front pads with every tire change and swap inside-outside if they are wearing unevenly.

In 185,000 miles on my '07, I NEVER replaced the "Pad Support" Clean them up with some brake cleaner and paper towel and they will be good to go.

When you have the calipers out, extend the pistons (carefully) and wipe down the sides with a soft cloth before pushing them back in. (Don't push them out too far or you will have a mess.) You don't want to push dirt past the seals (new pads are thicker)! Careful removing the slide pins. They are sometimes difficult to break loose and the Allen socket heads can get messed up. I clean the pins and lube lightly with silicone grease. A very small amount of anti-seize on the threads may help future removal.

I only went into this much detail because you seemed uncertain about the parts - first time changing pads on the FJR? Ask away if you have any questions.
If you are experienced with this stuff but just wanted part verification then I apologize for the long and unnecessary post.

Thank you for all the details which you have shared.
Yes, I will also change coolant. In addition, I will pick up DOT 4 Brake fluid. Is there an online article that shows the process/steps on how to flush brakes system and clutch?
Also, can you share link to where you purchased EBC front and rear pads.
I will exclude Pad Support hardware.
Just wondering, which sparkplugs do you use?

 

[RossKean]

Is there an online article that shows the process/steps on how to flush brakes system and clutch?

I can't remember one that is FJR-specific. It isn't difficult but if you haven't done it before, it would be very useful if you could solicit some help from someone local. Do you have a copy of the factory service manual? I had no trouble with brake and clutch flush the first time I did the FJR but I had done other motorcycles before.

Also, can you share link to where you purchased EBC front and rear pads.

I usually get them from my local dealer for the sake of convenience. Probably can get them on Amazon or many of the usual on-line parts places. I don't know the EBC part numbers off-hand.

Just wondering, which sparkplugs do you use?

I usually use the NGK CR8E conventional plugs (same as NGK 1275)
I have also used the NGK CR8EIX which have an Iridium center electrode for longer life. No discernable difference in performance.

 

[Rider_FJR]

What did you use to activate the ABS manually? This video shows to use a jumper cable.

Is there alternative option for 2007?

 

[RossKean]

Read this
Test ABS System... Link

Simple means to activate ABS in your garage to help flush out the ABS parts. I don't usually bother doing this when I refresh brake fluid but I make a point of "exercising" the ABS on a semi-regular basis - maybe once per month if an opportunity arises. Empty paved parking lot with a little sand on it works well... Doesn't hurt to practice a bit with the ABS so you know what to expect in an emergency braking situation.

If you don't have the factory service manual (FSM), it wouldn't hurt to get one.

 

[infrared]

Rider_FJR,

Speedbleeders.com will make the brake bleeding job into an easy one-guy operation. They will know what the FJR needs for the brakes and the clutch cylinder. They have a nifty fluid-catch bag that you will be happy to have, also.

You can get bleeder-equipped banjo bolts for the handlebar master cylinders. Makes it easy to bleed the vertical brake lines. From the right shop, these bleeder-banjo bolts cost ~US$15-$20 each, and maybe twice that price from the wrong shops. If you replace the banjo bolts, always use new hydraulic washers there; do not re-use the old ones.

In addition, just my US$.02 worth: You want the bleeder hose to be vertical going from the bleeder screw for about the span of one palm, before turning down into the catcher. You will get better results if you let the brake lever (front or rear) snap back as fast as it can, rather than releasing the brake lever in any other way. This trick moves more brake fluid for you. Bleed out the air, sure, but continue the bleeding process until only new fluid comes out of the bleeder, in every case. Do not use stored old brake fluid; use only new fluid of the correct type for your bike (specs are on the master cylinder caps). If the rear brake lever is stiff or "sticky" on the return, clean and lube the pivot. Clean and lube the brass bushing in the front brake lever (not the lever pivot - the brass bushing pushes the rod going into the brake master cylinder). Replace the bushing (US$5) if worn. HTH.

 

[RossKean]

Personally, I have never felt the need for Speedbleeders on the FJR. (Didn't even know people used banjo bleeders on FJRs.) Certainly Speedbleeders are not a bad suggestion and lots of people love them. They can make the job a little easier with less potential for making a mess. Guess I am a little old school... Keep brake fluid off painted surfaces. If not cleaned off ASAP, it will eat the paint.

Whether or not the levers or rear brake pivot feel sticky, I service these annually along with the shift linkage. That brass bushing in the clutch lever will last indefinitely if maintained or could need replacement after a couple of years if neglected.

Note: The owners manual has replacement intervals for hydraulic hoses as well as coolant hoses. There is rarely any need IMHO but they should be inspected for cracks, friction rubs, bulges, wear and leaks. Same with brake seals - inspect and replace if they leak or rubber has hardened.

 

[harper]

Rider-

How many miles on your 2007 and how worn are your brake pads? At 67000 miles I replaced all the OEM brake pads on my 2006. The rear pads were below minimum spec. They each had about 0.010" pad remaining. Two of the front were at minimum spec with about 0.020" of remaining pad. The six other fronts varied from 0.030" to 0.070" remaining. I wondered if you were seeing similar wear rates.

 

[Rider_FJR]

Harper - I have ordered all my brake parts. I will measure the old pads and give you the specs. Bike has 57,000 miles. Still on original pads. Also, I did order Yamaha pads, so I hop to get additional 50,000 miles on those.

 

[RossKean]

Pad lifetime depends on how and where you ride. Longer life if you do mostly highway and shorter in mountain twisties with aggressive braking. I think I got 65,000 miles or so out of my OEM pads on my '07. Did a little better with the second set (EBC HH) - mostly because I swapped them around (inside-outside) to balance wear. I usually go one and a half to two sets of front pads for every set of rear pads. Sometimes, the front lower right pad pair does not get changed with the others - these pistons are actuated by the rear brake circuit only and typically see less wear if you habitually use more front brake.

You shouldn't have an issue yet (especially using OEM pads and rotors) but it is a good habit to inspect and check rotor thickness with a micrometer when you change pads. I have heard of a few that ended out below the minimum thickness spec. (Carbone Lorraine pads were responsible for excessive rotor wear in at least one case.) I still had the original rotors on my '07 at 186,000 miles when I sold it - worn but still within spec.

 

[RiderJoe]

I recently did a full brake pad change and brake line/clutch fluid flush on my '06. The bike at that time had less than 8,000 miles on it, but obviously it has been sitting for many years. So to refresh everything and to make sure that all systems work I opted to go through the procedure. I strongly advise what others mentioned on this thread. Strictly follow the bleeding procedure/order recommended. Don't rush. Cover all painted surfaces below the reservoirs with towels to avoid paint damage from spilled fluid. If you are bleeding the lines by yourself, Speed Bleeder valves will make your job much easier and faster. (at $15 apiece for for 5 of them with the clutch will add up in price, but I think they worth it in time saved). Keep a very close eye out for the fluid level in the reservoirs as you are pumping the levers/pedal. They don't hold a lot of fluid and their levels can drop surprisingly fast during pumping. If you hear a slurping sound from the reservoirs during pumping, stop. Take a deep breath, and get comfortable with the idea that you just extended your bleeding procedure by 10-15 minutes (or more) because air has entered the lines, and you must get rid of all of it before you are done. You should have enough fresh fluid on hand to be able to do that in case it happens, or make sure that it won't happen to start with. Oh, one more thing: after topping off the fluid in the reservoirs during pumping, remember to loosely place the inner rubber covers on top of the reservoir openings before you start pumping again. During pumping a stream of fluid will be expelled from the bottom holes and can make a big mess by spraying brake fluid indiscriminately on everything nearby. Good luck!

 

[RossKean]

During pumping a stream of fluid will be expelled from the bottom holes and can make a big mess by spraying brake fluid indiscriminately on everything nearby

Not a bad idea - I found out about fountaining DOT4 fluid the first time I did a brake flush. I don't put the rubber covers on while I am bleeding the lines but I am VERY careful to squeeze and release the lever slowly and carefully without sudden movement.

 

[SwollenRaccoon]

Great advice from everybody. As stated, relax and take your time. It's not a difficult job if you aren't in a hurry. I know some people are fans of Speed Bleeders, and others don't care one way or another, but I had them on my 98 SuperHawk, and the first time I needed to flush some brake fluid on the FJR, I installed them, and don't regret it a bit. Good modification, in my book. Hope it goes well.

 

[BigOgre]

after topping off the fluid in the reservoirs during pumping, remember to loosely place the inner rubber covers on top of the reservoir openings before you start pumping again. During pumping a stream of fluid will be expelled from the bottom holes and can make a big mess by spraying brake fluid indiscriminately on everything nearby.

An old trick is to drop a coin in there while pumping. It'll stop the spray and when you're done and pull it out with a pair of needle-nose you'll have a shiny coin to boot.

 

[RiderJoe]

Just a note about Speed Bleeders: if you opt to replace your stock bleeder valves with them, keep the original valves in a safe, easy-to-find place. I think that Speed Bleeders are very useful if you are doing your own brake fluid flushes without needing a helping hand. And, that is all that most people need to do for routine brake maintenance besides replacing worn out brake pads. However, if brake caliper or master cylinder overhaul, or brake line replacement is needed where a lot of air enters the brake system, then the (original, or direct replacement) free flow valves need to be installed to do your first fluid fill/flush after the repair (unless you can use a vacuum system - MityVac, or similar - that can pull the air out of the system through the bleeder valve). The reason for this is that air is compressible, and it may not be possible to build up enough pressure by pumping the levers/pedal to overcome the spring pressure in the Speed Bleeders. Free air flow is needed to get rid of the large air volume trapped in the brake lines. Once most of the air is out, the Speed Bleeder valves can be reinstalled to help you finish the job.

 

[RossKean]

For what it's worth, I can easily manage front/rear brake flush as well as clutch on my FJR without Speedbleeders and without assistance.

 

[RiderJoe]

That is great! Good for you. No doubt that we all have different skill and knowledge levels. Some find specific tools helpful in getting their tasks done faster and more efficiently, and those tools may not be necessary at all for others to get theirs done just as well. To each his own. At the end, it's all good if you know that the job is done correctly, and feel good about riding your bike afterwards!