Valve clearance check at 103,400 miles on 2014 ES

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gbrmksmith

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Fourth valve check at 103,400 miles on 2014 ES.

Finally having the reshim the intake valves. All four cylinder's intake valve clearances have tightened by 0.001 to 0.0015 inches, to 0.0050 and 0.0055 inches.

Intake valve clearance s/b 0.0059 to 0.0087 inches. Prior valve check at 80,412 miles.

Cam lobes look beautiful, no scratches or signs of wear.
 

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Since you are doing it anyway, change all the intakes to around 70% of the max allowable and you may be good for another 100,000 miles.
For my 2007, I sold the bike at 187,000 miles and only ever had to adjust intake valves. They were close to minimum from the first check, but I didn't have to actually make changes until maybe 80,000 miles or more. One more adjustment at 160,000 miles or so. Exhaust valves never needed adjustment in the time I owned the bike.
 
Fourth valve check at 103,400 miles on 2014 ES.

Finally having the reshim the intake valves. All four cylinder's intake valve clearances have tightened by 0.001 to 0.0015 inches, to 0.0050 and 0.0055 inches.

Intake valve clearance s/b 0.0059 to 0.0087 inches. Prior valve check at 80,412 miles.

Cam lobes look beautiful, no scratches or signs of wear.
Is this the first time you needed to shim valves? I have a 2014ES as well and after 74,000 miles and three valve checks no adjustments needed. I am anticipating perhaps two more years of riding which would be about 12,000 more miles. I will be 85 years old and hope to be able to reflect on the past 42 years of motorcycling with great memories.
 
Good report for 100K plus miles. I'm anticipating needing to shim at least three (3) intakes on my '15 at next (75k) check. Next check is at least a year off so I have time to decide a plan of action!

~G
 
Interesting post... and a good picture is always nice. You may be the only FJR owner who has ever done 4 checks in 100K miles. But checking is relatively easy and a good peace-of-mind knowing what the clearances are or how they are trending. As others have stated, probably best to add a little clearance on those intakes and you're good to go.
Mr. BR
('05 w/86K, 2 checks since purchase at 48K miles)
 
Mid process of swapping for thinner shims, dropping all the intake shim by 5/100th of a mm. Factory shims were mix of 1.85 and 1.90 mm.
 

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As service manual suggests, I tied up the timing chain.
I have never bothered. I zip-tie the chain to both of the sprockets on the cams so it cannot possibly drop. I have never had to change an exhaust shim and the intakes can be changed by lifting out just the intake cam and laying it at an angle. The chain from the crank to the exhaust cam never moves and the timing between the cams is fixed by having the chain tied to both. Only thing to watch is that you don't have a tooth slip at the crank (DAMHIK).

When looking at parts fiches, I discovered that Yamaha lists THREE different part numbers for valve lifters (shim buckets). Be careful to not switch them around. (I assume they may be slightly different diameter and/or thickness.) I did not realize that until AFTER I did my first valve adjustment. No problems so maybe I was lucky. No idea which is "normal" or if, like shims, they use whatever fits best in the factory.

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That would have been a lot simpler, I wish I had thought of that. I'm keeping all the buckets organized back into their original locations and making sure that they rotate freely once reinstalled. Sometimes following the service manual results in more work than necessary.
 
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