Brake Job - Total cost from Boats.net

[SkooterG]

Where does one buy them cheaply?

You've got to STOP being an enabler Wayne..... My wallet can't take anymore!

 

[RadioHowie]

Ok, so MAYBE I might be willing try the EBC HH pads. Where does one buy them cheaply?

Okay, so IF you do go to EBC, be sure to mark down the mileage when you install them and see how long they last, okay?

 

[SkooterG]

Ok, so MAYBE I might be willing try the EBC HH pads. Where does one buy them cheaply?

Okay, so IF you do go to EBC, be sure to mark down the mileage when you install them and see how long they last, okay?

Believe it or not, many years ago I earned an engineering degree. So suffice to say, I DO have some anal-retentive tendencies. Which is the long way round of saying that I always log the mileage of any and every procedure I perform, from changing a headlight bulb, to tire changes, to suspension rebuilds, and yes, not only brake pad changes, but even when I swap them around for longevity.

Someday I'll get away from my paper-based methodology and actually put everything in an Excel spreadsheet so all that information will actually be able to be obtained later easily.

 

[rbentnail]

Ok, so MAYBE I might be willing try the EBC HH pads. Where does one buy them cheaply?

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Believe it or not, many years ago I earned an engineering degree. So suffice to say, I DO have some anal-retentive tendencies. Which is the long way round of saying that I always log the mileage of any and every procedure I perform, from changing a headlight bulb, to tire changes, to suspension rebuilds, and yes, not only brake pad changes, but even when I swap them around for longevity.

Someday I'll get away from my paper-based methodology and actually put everything in an Excel spreadsheet so all that information will actually be able to be obtained later easily.

Best price I found 2 yrs ago was from Alex at https://mishacycles.com/store/. Mention any forum and you'll prolly get a discount.

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I just keep a pocket-sized spiral wound notebook book in a ziplock bag with the MOM under the rear seat. Everything done, however minor, with mileage and date gets written in it. Also included is info like tire mfr & type, oil weight & filter model, etc. Just like my sig......

When I sold my last bike those records were a big hit with the buyer and his wife.

 

[SkooterG]

FYI: I just completed a parts order and went with Stadium Yamaha. They were a little cheaper than Boats.net. Also good to check is Yamaha Sports Plaza, Yamaha Sports Center, and CyclePartsWarehouse.

 

[bramfrank]

EBC isn't the only aftermarket provider. I use Carbone Lorraine pads on mine - great stopping power. Long life.

 

[Rider_FJR]

FYI: I just completed a parts order and went with Stadium Yamaha. They were a little cheaper than Boats.net. Also good to check is Yamaha Sports Plaza, Yamaha Sports Center, and CyclePartsWarehouse.

Just placed an order from Stadium Yamaha. Thanks for the link, theyhad the best prices.

 

[Rider_FJR]

Having 48K miles on the original pads, how do you measure/check if pads need to be replaced?

Or is 48K a good time to just change them?

 

[RossKean]

Having 48K miles on the original pads, how do you measure/check if pads need to be replaced?Or is 48K a good time to just change them?

Too many variables to say whether 48K is a lot or a little. If you haven't done it, its a good idea to swap the pads around because there is typically uneven wear between inside/outside pads.

You definitely need to check them. Much easier to check them with the caliper removed, especially since tou need to clearly see the pads on both sides of the rotor.

 

[extrememarine]

I agree with RossKean - you need to check them and evaluate them because of all the variables. There is a minimum material thickness listed in the service manual, maybe in the owner manual as well - I'll have to check when I get home if no one else has chimed in. The owners manual should also list how often to check them.

You can pull the calibers, or pull the retaining pins and take the pads out of the calibers. Keep track of what position they came out of, measure, and re-install, rotating them to opposite position if needed based on were.

Having 48K miles on the original pads, how do you measure/check if pads need to be replaced?Or is 48K a good time to just change them?

 

[Rider_FJR]

At that mileage did you all change your OEM pads?

 

[escapefjrtist]

At that mileage did you all change your OEM pads?

Direct answer, no I haven't needed to. There's a few of the PNW gang that also has not needed to change their pads at that mileage either. Take a look at the pads and measure how much friction material is left, that's the determining factor.

Replacement frequency all depends on how you use the binders...

--G

 

[rbentnail]

Do what I did. And no, I'm not independently wealthy. When you get upwards of 30k miles and you're pretty sure you're gonna keep the bike for another 20k at least, just buy the damn pads. Then, at your leisure, the next time you have a wheel off for a tire change or whatever, compare the new ones to the old ones. If there's 65% wear or more then replace them. If not, put them away and look again next time.

Given the differences in riding locales, styles, etc. IMO there's no set mileage for brakes that applies to all people. There's just too many variables to consider. The best we can do is 'be prepared' so it's what I try to do.

And IMHO so what if the new ones sit around for a while? When you need 'em, you got 'em. If someone traveling needs 'em, you got 'em. And you can always sell 'em or pass 'em forward if you don't use 'em.

 

[HotRodZilla]

65%?? WTF? That means there's still 35% left. I ain't changing **** till I'm down to about the last 5%...if that.

 

[SkooterG]

65%?? WTF? That means there's still 35% left. I ain't changing **** till I'm down to about the last 5%...if that.

Yeah, no ****! + a bazillion!

This is what the old one's should look like when you take them off!

 

[escapefjrtist]

Maybe not quite that far down ^^^^ not much friction material left and much too easy to get into metal...

Tires first and now brakes...skoot, you definitely get your money's worth out of parts!

--G

 

[RadioHowie]

Don't agree with SkooterG on this one...

Pads should look like THIS before you change 'em...

 

[Fred W]

Actually, Skooter's pad is worn to the exact point that you should replace it. The reason that I say that is that you can still (faintly) see the indicator tell-tale groove running down the center.

But... that pad is relatively evenly worn. And...the likelihood that all of your pads wear at the exact same rate is slim. Very slim.

So, yes, when any one of my pads wears to that point that is when I'd change them all. But I have a 1st gen (with only 2 pairs of pads) and I make a habit of rotating the inner and outer pads to try to equalize wear as much as possible.

OK, one more qualifier: If I was headed out on a long trip and the pads were in the last 10% or so, I'd probably change them early, same as I often do with tires, to avoid those nagging worries about whether they would make it through the trip. Peace of mind often has a price, but is usually worth every penny.

 

[SkooterG]

Maybe not quite that far down ^^^^ not much friction material left and much too easy to get into metal...

Actually, for my type of riding there is still a thousand or two more miles left in that worn pad. I was being conservative.

 

[Rider_FJR]

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