The threads are stripped at 12? Hmmmm....me wonder about your torque wrench calibration. And if you're calling them "brake pad bolts" I'm a tiny bit dubious since they're technically brake caliper bolts.
Not sure I've heard about this being a known problem on the FRONT caliper bolts. But both of us have certainly read about this being a known problem with the rear caliper bolts.
Yeah...When I saw the title, I thought for sure it was gonna be the rears. I know those strip because I stripped mine taking them out for the first brake pad change.
I respectfully disagree. Recommended torque values are exactly that. They ensure that the bolts are tight enough to stay in place, but not tightened enough to distort the component or fastener. If you use any kind of thread lubricant, including Never Seize, it is impossible to torque the fastener correctly, because the specs apply to dry threads only, although there are some applications where the manufacturer recommends using a light coat of oil or threads locker. The torque specs are adjusted to compensate for that.
You got me thinking so I went out and checked my hex sockets. I think the picture says it all. I put an an old L shaped hex key in the picture for reference. Why do they make em that way?
I have taken many to a bench grinder to square them up and it has prolonged the usefulness of them and makes them fit much better into the cap of the bolt.You got me thinking so I went out and checked my hex sockets. I think the picture says it all. I put an an old L shaped hex key in the picture for reference. Why do they make em that way?
on my '04, it's even more tricky to get a good "bite" with the 6 point socket etc because the amber reflectors are in the way+1 - to the grinder with those tools. Just be sure to grind it veeeeery sloooowly so you do not over-heat the bit and ruin the tempered hardening.
As to why they make them that way? My guess is that it makes it easier to fit the tool into the fastener quickly. IME quickly is seldom the best way.
FYI... I believe that what we are actually talking about getting "stripped" are item #8 in the illustrated parts breakdown, aka "Pad Pins" part number 3P6-25924-00-00 and list for $32.87 each
The torque spec for those is 12 ft-lbs. My guess is that your torque wrench may be incapable of accurately measuring 12 ft lbs. Anything with this low of a torque spec doesn't really need to be torqued. They are just in there to retain the brake pads. On the first gen, they are just clevis pinned into place (no threads)
The caliper bolts that everyone else is talking about in this thread, i.e. the fasteners that hold the caliper to the fork leg, are hex head bolts with a 29 ft-lb torque spec. Those are the bolts that you need to remove to take off the calipers for wheel removal. Those fasteners you do want to torque to spec.
Item number 8 on your link is correct. In the Gen 2 Service manual it is chapter 4, page 29 and item number 3 lableled "brake pad bolt"FYI... I believe that what we are actually talking about getting "stripped" are item #8 in the illustrated parts breakdown, aka "Pad Pins" part number 3P6-25924-00-00 and list for $32.87 each
The torque spec for those is 12 ft-lbs. My guess is that your torque wrench may be incapable of accurately measuring 12 ft lbs. Anything with this low of a torque spec doesn't really need to be torqued. They are just in there to retain the brake pads. On the first gen, they are just clevis pinned into place (no threads)
The caliper bolts that everyone else is talking about in this thread, i.e. the fasteners that hold the caliper to the fork leg, are hex head bolts with a 29 ft-lb torque spec. Those are the bolts that you need to remove to take off the calipers for wheel removal. Those fasteners you do want to torque to spec.
