Brake Pads Soaked in Brake Fluid - Salvageable?

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Buy new pads....yeah, you'll spend more money but how much will it cost you if you're off work and in a hospital for months?? Or worse??

Your life "could" depend on this decision.

 
I would spray them with brake cleaner and then use a strong mixture of Dawn dishwashing liquid and water to finish washing them off.

Then I would dry and put them on the bike and take it out for an EASY test ride to see if they want to grip well and if they do, you are good to go.

 
JamesK,I do not recommend trying to grind away some pad material, trying to find a limit in the contamination. It's about impossible to do that job accurately enough. You will end up with pads that are always partly in contact with the disk, and your brakes will always be running hot.

Let me say it again: when it comes to brakes, the risks involved far outweigh the rewards of saving a few coins.
These are your opinions, and clearly you are entitled to them, but I do not see anything factual in your post to back up your dire claims of doom and general hand waving. Yes, brakes are important. There is no doubt about that. They do require regular attention to perevent unwarranted surprises.

In fact, this is why you should have serviced your own brake calipers before they would no longer retract properly, overheated your brake rotors and eventually seized. Dirty caliper pistons cause such wheel locking calamities, not dirty (or contaminated) brake pads. A simple inspection and cleaning of the caliper pistons at each tire change is enough to head off any such problems such as yours.

Shaving / sanding down old pads is not to be feared. Yes, you will have to re-bed them in again, just like you do with a new pads installed on previously used rotors, but that happens relatively quickly in both cases.

If the pads were going to provide less than adequate friction, which is the basis of the big fear with contaminated brake pads, you would know this upon initial use. It would not be something that would increment further over time (assuming you fixed the source of contamination).
Fred,

Yes, those are my opinions, on the contamination. This contamination is an unknown hazard, and I see no consensus on what (if anything) is an adequate remedy. The pad material itself is a variable, and the pad's bonding to the backing plate is another variable. The depth of penetration of the contamination is yet another variable. What worked well for one rider here may not do the job in every case. I admit, I prefer caution over coins, but every rider owns their personal decisions. If a mistake causes a problem later, I would not want to see a bad choice cause others to suffer, that's all.

As for shaving pads, I like to think that I could do that job well enough, but experience proved otherwise. There was/is no defect in my calipers, which easily accepted new brake pads, and have worked flawlessly to this day. I would not have spoken up if my issue was simply a matter of inadequate maintenance of the calipers. I would prefer that others do not repeat my mistake in shaving brake pads, if given the choice. It does seem possible, but I'd want the pads milled, before I would try that trick again. I believe the savings then would be little or none, so new brake pads seem to be a reasonable choice, and the absolute minimum of risk for this issue. Caution over coins, when it comes to maintenance items. YMMV.

 
Wow, that is very strange. I cannot begin to explain why shaving a millimeter or two from the pad would result in pad drag, rotor heating, and eventually wheel lockup. Unless... Maybe these shaved pads were crooked enough to get cocked in their slides? Then the mechanical binding in the caliper slides might have resulted in all of the above. But it still seems like a stretch.

But you and the others who recommend pad replacement are correct in one important way: If you replace the pads you will definitely not have to worry about it. Sometimes that peace of mind is worth the price of replacement.

 
IMHO shaving the pads a bit should be just fine if done carefully so you don't get to much taper although they wear that way and still work. It seems the only way you could get a lock up is if the fluid was really old and water contaminated to the point the water boiled and created expansion. I've had it happen on drum brake systems and heard of it on disc brakes. A good reason to do a regular system flush with new fluid.

Tthe modern sintered pads are dense enough that I don't see much chance of getting soaked . I've got some EBC pads that I don't know what they fit soaking as we speak. I'm going to give them a few days in the hot sun and then do an autopsy to see how far the contamination goes into the surface.

Should be interesting.

 
EBC HH pads for FJR on Ebay..... deals are out there to be found, I prefer those pads over OEM...
<HIJACK>

I have used several sets of EBS HH pads in the past. They work as good as OEM but produce prodigious amounts of black brake dust that is hard to get off the wheels and the reason I have used several sets is because they wear out quickly (on my mostly 2-up riding). The last set of EBS HH pads put a hurting on my rotors, I dunno why all the other sets were fine but this last set really ground down my rotors. I have gone back to OEM pads and will suck up the $$$ and stay with OEM over EBS.

</HIJACK>
This has been my experience too with the EBC pads, resulting in new rotors. I even have a set of the EBC rotors which didn't work very well with the EBC pads...

I did run Carbon Lorraine pads (SBK5 I think) for a while, but the savings on the purchase price were negated by the considerably shorter pad life and shipping costs to Japan. For a while now have been back on OEM rotors (new) and OEM pads and other than the costs of the pads am happy.

 
...I would spend the 40 bucks and replace them if they were on my bike...
If that was all the pads cost I'm pretty sure James wouldn't be in the boggle he is in. Expect to pay over $100 for a right/left set.
Closer to $200 for the eight pads required for the Gen II front - 4 packages of 2 pads/pkg! At least EBS sells them in packages of 4. I have had really good experience with the EBC HH. Excellent longevity without tons of dust and my rotors are still good after 99,500+ miles; more than half that was on the one set of EBC pads I have used. I wonder if they used a different recipe for the Gen II pads?

 
I'm in the "clean 'em up and try um" camp. I guess to be safe, you could ride easy to a testing place (large, empty parking lot, deserted back road) and do some hard braking. You will know if they are up to the task after that.

 
Ok I am done searching. I put frj 1300 brake pads in a search. Pads I found were cheap. There was a set that had all three, two front and one rear, for $47. You guys needs to buy your parts elsewhere if you are paying $200 for pads!!

 
Ok I am done searching. I put frj 1300 brake pads in a search. Pads I found were cheap. There was a set that had all three, two front and one rear, for $47. You guys needs to buy your parts elsewhere if you are paying $200 for pads!!
You mind sharing that vendor's info
rolleyes.gif


 
Ok I am done searching. I put frj 1300 brake pads in a search. Pads I found were cheap. There was a set that had all three, two front and one rear, for $47. You guys needs to buy your parts elsewhere if you are paying $200 for pads!!
Are you looking for Gen II pads?? Typical OEM price from on-line discount sellers is $45-$55 a "set" which (from Yamaha) is 2 pads. You need four sets (8 pads) for the front brakes. EBC is about half that (come in "sets" of 4). As JamesK asks, share your information if you have found a vendor that is a lot cheaper.

 
Wild1 has a 1st gen. James has a 2nd gen.

1st gen pads are (relatively) cheap. 2nd gen (and later) takes more pads due to the linked braking and they are much more money.

 
Wild1 has a 1st gen. James has a 2nd gen.
1st gen pads are (relatively) cheap. 2nd gen (and later) takes more pads due to the linked braking and they are much more money.
Yes, more money for pretty much the same exact thing.... SAD.... Same amount of brake pads though....

I'm highly doubting they came up with some NEW technology for brake pads to justify the increase in cost.

Looks like the UK has some brembo ceramic pads for FJR, replacement rotors as well, too bad shipping price is spendy from UK.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-FJR1300-06-09-Brembo-Carbon-Ceramic-Front-Road-Pads-/130836194550?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item1e7671e4f6

 
...You need four sets (8 pads) for the front brakes. ...
Probably only three sets, the linked-from-the-rear pads don't wear so quickly. Even if they do need replacing, you'll usually find two of the "main" six will have enough wear left to use for the linked pair.
 
IMHO shaving the pads a bit should be just fine if done carefully so you don't get to much taper although they wear that way and still work. It seems the only way you could get a lock up is if the fluid was really old and water contaminated to the point the water boiled and created expansion. I've had it happen on drum brake systems and heard of it on disc brakes. A good reason to do a regular system flush with new fluid.
FJRay,

Yep, water in the brake fluid will boil out first, but clean new brake fluid (as in my case) will also boil and lock the brake, if things get hot enough. The different DOT numbers on brake fluid indicate (among other things) the temperature needed to boil the new brake fluid. The mis-alignment or taper of the brake pad surfaces (which I caused by trying to "shave" them) was not visible, but it was enough to cause the problem stated. A digital dial caliper might have spotted the taper that I caused, but I did not have one, and now I would not bet my bike on it, anyway. New brake pads, and no other maintenance, fixed the problem in one move for me. If I had been on the freeway, my outcome would have been very much less fortunate. Disk brakes in heavy use often operate near the boiling point of brake fluid (maybe closer than most people may want to believe). The only symptoms for my bike was an unexpected "loss" of power, and a brake lever that was locked rigid against the stops. Any sudden loss of free play in the hand brake lever or foot brake lever is cause for an unscheduled stop, right now, to investigate. You may get no other warning.

Every rider makes their own decisions, though. Based on my own (lucky) experience, I do not recommend shaving brake pads. Nobody is required to listen to me.

 
I followed FJRoy's advice (with a small twist), I boiled the pads for 30 mins in a soapy solution. That helped after which I soaked the pads in gas and scrubbed them down with a brush (plastic bristles). Here are the before and after shots, I was hesitant to use the "before" pads, but feel pretty ok with trying the 'after" pads. Not sure how clear the difference will show up in the iPhone pics, but it's a lot in real life.

Before

IMG_0608.jpg


After

IMG_0623.jpg


 

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