Brake Pads Soaked in Brake Fluid - Salvageable?

[RossKean]

Did you bake them out in an oven?

 

[Fred W]

Have you tired the cleaned pads yet? I wonder if the heat generated when you apply the brakes would bring any remaining brake fluid to the pad surface or just vaporize it. Is brake fluid flammable? Internet is my friend for that one and the answer is yes. https://garrett-engineers.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=79&Itemid=82

I kind'a doubt your brakes will reach 1000 degrees F used in that test. At that temperature almost everything burns. If they did get that hot there isn't a DOT rating available that would prevent the fluid from boiling into oblivion.

Even brakes that are being heavily used will only reach maybe ~ 300F. Brake fluid in the pads is not going to burst into fiery flames of death. Even if the residue was to reach the flashpoint there wouldn't be enough in there to sustain a flame

 

[Donal]

"there wouldn't be enough in there to sustain a flame" That's the killer punch right there...................................

 

[Bounce]

If they could, you'd be competition for Gold Wingers and their "Ring Of Fire" light kits.

 

[Afast03nNJ]

Even brakes that are being heavily used will only reach maybe ~ 300F. Brake fluid in the pads is not going to burst into fiery flames of death. Even if the residue was to reach the flashpoint there wouldn't be enough in there to sustain a flame

300 Degrees is nothing. The disc and pad surface can see temps upwards of 1,000 degrees under severe use. At that temperature Cementite forms on the disc surface which is one of the causes of brake judder (warped rotors) felt on cars. To further that, the description most use, warped rotors, isn't really what happens, it's pad material transfer that causes brake judder. And that actually happens when the operating temperature of the brake pads is exceeded and that's way past 300 deg. Brake fluid doesn't directly see those temps (but can) as it's isolated by the pad and caliper itself. Under normal operating conditions most of the heat is on the rotor and pad surface. Venting on the rotor cools things down between stops.

 

[Fred W]

That's true, I was thinking of the fluid's temps in its normal position behind the pistons, not the pads and rotor. Still, I fail to see how there could be a flame on the pads with so little fluid in them. If it burnt, it would just oxidize and be gone. Even less reason to be concerned IMO.

 

[PhilJet09]

I get a "Brake Overheat" cas message in the Gulfstream at 650*C (about 1200*F). I've seen as high as 500*C doing landing currency for three pilots, even leaving the gear hanging.

I know...not exactly relevant here, but still interesting to see some of the temps certain brake systems can tolerate.

 

[Fred W]

Phil,

Are those temps in the calipers or are there sensors on the rotors or pads somewhere? Must be the latter.

 

[PhilJet09]

Honestly, I'll have to look a little closer next time I go in to work. I know the general location of the sensors, but couldn't say for sure if they're in the calipers or somewhere in the stack.

 

[PhilJet09]

Here's a good link Fred. https://code7700.com/g-450_landing_gear_wheels_and_brakes.html

The sensor is in the inner chassis of the brake pack which contains the 5 pistons (caliper, if you will).

 

[Fred W]

So the whole caliper gets that hot? Wow. How do they keep the fluid from boiling? The dry boiling point of the best auto brake fluids (DOT 5) is only 500F.

 

[PhilJet09]

Good question, Fred. I tried unsuccessfully to find the boiling point of Skydrol. Surely, it has to be lower than 650C. Now I have another question to annoy my instructors at my next recurrent class.

 

[majicmaker]

The fire point of Skydrol is 350F. The auto ignition point of Skydrol is 880F. It's even less if its vaporized.

 

[Fred W]

Wasn't familiar with Skydrol, had to google it. Trade name for a Phosphate Ester based hydraulic fluid. Can't find any boiling point specs anywhere, just the flashpoint/burning temps.

Seems the stuff is pretty nasty, so not in common use as brake (or other hydraulic) fluid on non-commercial airline applications. They use it there for its fire resistance attributes.

Most smaller airframe manufacturers (and the military) are still specifying mineral based fluids or more recently, synthetics for hydraulics. Seems the latest synthetic spec is MIL-PRF-87257, which is supposed to have the fire retardant-ness of Skydrol and maintain viscosity at low temps better than the minerals.

 

[rp.foster]

James,

The FJR brake system is one of the most advanced brake systems on the road today. Unified braking, ABS, multiple pistons, sensors, ECS, ECU you name it, it's packed in there. Even with all this technology, the bike wont stop if the pads are not performing as designed...you know the answer. Fred is right, with proper knowledge, attention and preventive maintenance and tools anything is possible. Another element is the human. If you are used to performing preventive maintenance, performing preflight (and post flight) inspections, shaving pads, and have access to some of the manufacturing tools (ovens) mentioned above, you very well could reduce your risk. If you are like the other 95% of the folks on the road, buy new ones.

 

[majicmaker]

Wasn't familiar with Skydrol, had to google it. Trade name for a Phosphate Ester based hydraulic fluid. Can't find any boiling point specs anywhere, just the flashpoint/burning temps.
Seems the stuff is pretty nasty, so not in common use as brake (or other hydraulic) fluid on non-commercial airline applications. They use it there for its fire resistance attributes.

Most smaller airframe manufacturers (and the military) are still specifying mineral based fluids or more recently, synthetics for hydraulics. Seems the latest synthetic spec is MIL-PRF-87257, which is supposed to have the fire retardant-ness of Skydrol and maintain viscosity at low temps better than the minerals.

It IS nasty Fred. You have No idea. If you touch that stuff with your bare hands, your skin will feel like its on fire. You will run as fast as you can to the nearest sink to wash your hands for 15 minutes before the burning goes away. When the burning stops, you will think that you got all of it off. Then, the next time you have to go to the John for a leak and unzip your pants and pull your tallywhacker out, you will find out immediately that you didn't. Don't ask me how I know that! (About a dozen times!). )

 

[Peter Murray]

OK, so I'm a cheap *******.I bought some spare calipers, which came with 7k mile pads, these look brand new. The problem is that the brainiac who pulled these off and wrapped them up for shipping in plastic wrap, didn't bother to drain out the brake fluid out of the calipers.

By the time I received the calipers (with the pads), the pads were soaked in brake fluid.

I would love to be able to make use of these practically new pads, saving myself what here costs around $350 of new OEM pads.

I have tried to clean them off with brake parts cleaner, which made a difference, but I feel there is still fluid in the material. I thought of soaking the pads in gas for a day or so, but am concerned that it would impact the adhesive securing the pad material to the backing plate.

Does anyone know, if there is any way to salvage these brake fluid soaked pads so that they can be safely used?

TIA.

It's your LIFE why not !

With out creating a extensive list of Disabilities vs Death go ahead use the oil soaked ****..

IQ ?

GOOD GRIEF WTF !

 

[FJRay]

OK, so I'm a cheap *******.I bought some spare calipers, which came with 7k mile pads, these look brand new. The problem is that the brainiac who pulled these off and wrapped them up for shipping in plastic wrap, didn't bother to drain out the brake fluid out of the calipers.

By the time I received the calipers (with the pads), the pads were soaked in brake fluid.

I would love to be able to make use of these practically new pads, saving myself what here costs around $350 of new OEM pads.

I have tried to clean them off with brake parts cleaner, which made a difference, but I feel there is still fluid in the material. I thought of soaking the pads in gas for a day or so, but am concerned that it would impact the adhesive securing the pad material to the backing plate.

Does anyone know, if there is any way to salvage these brake fluid soaked pads so that they can be safely used?

TIA.

It's your LIFE why not !

With out creating a extensive list of Disabilities vs Death go ahead use the oil soaked ****..

IQ ?

GOOD GRIEF WTF !

If you read the original post it states they were soaked in brake fluid NOT oil. Huge diference.

You are allowed your opinioncause they are like ********, we all have one but insulting a persons motives and questioning their inteligence shows yours.

WTF??

 

[JamesK]

Did you bake them out in an oven?

No, but will try it before installing or hit them with a heat gun.

 

[RossKean]

Shouldn't be a problem - just ensures that there's little in the way of organic residue. The hydraulic fluid is, in fact, water soluble and I seriously doubt that there is any issue at all - not "oil" as someone suggested. I changed pads a few days ago and the hose popped off the bleeder during the process and a little fluid dripped over the pads. Just hosed it off with water and finished the service. No ill effects and did not expect any.