Brake roters

[iboldguy]

When changing my tires, I tried to take off the disks and the bolts wouldn't budge. I rounded out the allen socket in two bolt heads and stopped before more damage. I think they are lock tited. How do you get them off. How to get the wrecked bolts out.

I ended up leaving them on and using a 2x4 frame to avoid the roters hitting the floor. It would be easier if I could just remove them.

 

[SkooterG]

Don't remove the rotors for tire changes!!!!! As you have found out, you just increase the PITA factor my orders of magnitude by trying to do that.

To remove the rotor bolts, you need heat and an impact driver. A search of the forum will yield previous topics on trying to get those pesky buggers out.

For the one's that you have fubar'd, I believe drilling them out is your only recourse left.

BTW, once removed, you generally should replace those bolts as they do tend to get rounded during removal. And you are supposed to use loctite on them when installing them.

 

[RadioHowie]

Don't remove the rotors for tire changes!!!!! As you have found out, you just increase the PITA factor my orders of magnitude by trying to do that.
To remove the rotor bolts, you need heat and an impact driver. A search of the forum will yield previous topics on trying to get those pesky buggers out.

For the one's that you have fubar'd, I believe drilling them out is your only recourse left.

BTW, once removed, you generally should replace those bolts as they do tend to get rounded during removal. And you are supposed to use loctite on them when installing them.

+1

And SkooterG doesn't mean a heat gun, or a BIC lighter when he's talking heat.

You need some serious heat to melt the red loctite on those bolts.

You MIGHT luck up on the FUBARd bolts by driving a torx bit into the stripped holes...AFTER getting them glowing red hot.

You gotta remember, those bolts have gone through some serious heat-cycling attached to the disc rotors, so heat, patience and an impact driver are pretty much necessary getting them out.

Take 100 deep breaths and get back to work.

'Howie

 

[MT home]

There are special extractors made for stripped out internal socket head cap screws - essentially low-profile E-Z Outs. I see a listing in the MSC catalog (www.mscdirect.com) offering made in USA extractors, in 1/32" increments. They are listed about $3 each for most sizes up to 1/2" [12.5 mm]. Auto parts supply houses may offer the tools locally.

I defer to others regarding the need for and the amount of heat on the bolts themselves.

Good luck on getting the little buggers out.

 

[jet mechanic]

If you end up having to drill them out, and if you're good with a drill, try to drill through the entire lenght of the bolt. Apply more heat , then try to easy out.

Some members have complained about breaking off easy outs and really being screwed. By drilling all the way through you can knock out a broken extractor with a punch.

I went back with hex bolts, plenty of clearence and easier to remove later on .

+1 on the propane torch!

 

[BrunDog]

Dude! Step away from the toolbox!

FJR maintenance manual should be referenced for all things wrenching. If that is not available, consult this forum. If neither are at hand, admire an intact, functional FJR and leave the dirty work to the pro's.

-BD

 

[GalaxyBlue]

I rounded 2 of them out, And used an angle grinder to notch the head. THEN used heat and a large impact driver...

Some of us had to learn the hard way!

 

[iboldguy]

Regarding heat to release the lock tite, is there any concern about effect on wheel bearings and seals?

 

[cadman]

Regarding heat to release the lock tite, is there any concern about effect on wheel bearings and seals?

no, see post #3.

 

[dcarver]

Sounds like something I would do, good luck.

 

[wheatonFJR]

For FUTURE reference look at FJRTech website. They have easy to read instructions with photos for those of us who can't/won't read.

or

Go to a FJR Tech Day near you.

 

[ahchiu]

Use a saw horse to put wheel on, if I remove the rotors I install all new bolts.. no need to remove rotors everytime you change tires.

 

[Patriot]

When my motor was swapped, I had the shop replace the steering head bearings to fix a click that occured high in the frame on hard braking which became more pronounced and was felt at easier and easier braking experiences.

Well, rode the new engined bike for a couple thousand miles, and now I feel a click on hard braking from somewhere lower.

Was riding close to the shop and stopped in. Aaron Graves put the bike up on the center stand to check the stearing head bearings and the bars turned oh so smooth and freely. He then took the Feej for a ride up and down the highway in front of the shop (so that's what the doppler sound of a Feej at 9k revs sounds like) and did some harder and harder stops.

Rode back in and blocked the bike up with front wheel free. He started spinning the front wheel and braking hard. Holding the brake, he started rocking the wheel back and forth.

Bottom line, he says there's a microscopic bit of play in the rotors as they are "floating rotors" with bolts and inserts that wear over time. He said to just leave it alone, or to remove the rotors and replace the attchment hardware.

Any thoughts, comments, etc.

Thanx in advance,

Mike in Nawlins'

 

[bramfrank]

Any thoughts, comments, etc.

I vote for leave it alone - it isn't as if the rotors are falling off.

 

[mcatrophy]

...Bottom line, he says there's a microscopic bit of play in the rotors as they are "floating rotors" with bolts and inserts that wear over time. He said to just leave it alone, or to remove the rotors and replace the attchment hardware.

Any thoughts, comments, etc.

Thanx in advance,

Mike in Nawlins'

When I first got my bike, I could hear this. Took it back to the shop, "Head bearing needs adjusting" says I.

Mechi put front brake on, rocked it, "Clonk" says the bike.

Mechi grabs brake rotor, twists to and fro. "Clonk, clonk" goes the bike. Tries the other side, bike remains silent.

Mechi says "Floating rotors, not uncommon, not a problem, may quieten with time and crud, don't worry" (I paraphrase).

That was 3 years 4 months and nearly 20,000 miles ago.

So, to me it's a non-issue. Nothing's broken or fallen off, the brakes work very well, I still occasionally hear this clonk, but I totally ignore it.

I suggest you do the same.

 

[Constant Mesh]

"You gotta remember, those bolts have gone through some serious heat-cycling attached to the disc rotors, so heat, patience and an impact driver are pretty much necessary getting them out."

I don't believe those bolts get all that hot due to the floating disc construction. The outer radius of the disc gets hot from pad friction. The inner radius where the bolts are located is to a large extent isolated from that heat because of the floating connection.

"Warping is often caused by excessive heat. When the disc's friction area is at a substantially higher temperature than the inner portion the thermal expansion of the friction area is greater than the inner portion and warping occurs. This can be minimized by using "floating" rotors which decouple the friction area from the inner portion and allow thermal expansion to occur at different rates."

The FJR's rear disc doesn't float so more heat gets transferred to the the mounting bolts and wheel hub. But the rear brake is not typically used very aggressively so disc heating may not be a big issue there.

 

[FJRBluesman]

iboldguy - Don't ask me how I go these URL of lessons learned. Rotor Removal/Installation Clicky.

 

[johnny80s]

Some of us had to learn the hard way!

Ain't that the truth. Learned many lessons that way.

 

[72Duster340]

When bolts or studs are heated to loosen Loctite you can apply a wax candle to any exposed threads and the melted wax will wick in along the threads and help in the removal of the fastener. This was a recommendation from a Loctite representative during a product seminar. I've tried it and it works, (I have a couple of small "birthday candles" in my toolbox for this use).