braking distance

Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum

Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I remember reading a test simular to this awhile back, posted somewhere else, But it did help me in my decision to buy a FJR with ABS:

https://www.msf-usa.org/imsc/proceedings/a-...ingDistance.pdf

This is not the exact test I read, as the one I read they ran this test using 3 groups of riders, Expert-racers, long time riders, and new riders. I can not however find the link to this re-do of the above test.

The conclusions were the same, other than the fact that they did find that the "expert" riders could achieve better stopping distances on DRY roads without ABS. However, even the most expert rider on a non ABS bike could not out stop even a "new" rider on a ABS equiped bike when the conditions were wet or sandy.

And as most of the roads in this great country of ours are not perfectly dry or free of debris, the addition of ABS is pretty much a no brainer when it comes to options offered for a motorcycle.

If anyone can find the link to the test I am speaking of, let me know. ...

EDIT:

Here it is:

https://www.ibmwr.org/prodreview/abstests.html

(was found off Hycyles link)

KM

 
Last edited by a moderator:
If you want shorter braking distances, just run BT021's (OE on the C14) at 38/41 instead of the stock BT020's. The front will wear more evenly, albeit faster, and you WILL stop faster.

 
I for one really like the handling and breaking carictoristics of my 06, you just need to respect her wieght and size and be some what pateint with her. So far I havent been in a situation where I did not confident with my breaking ability.

 
This is an excerpt of the MSF ABS article I referred to in a previous post in this thread. The URL in the link was not valid, I think I found the new home of the report.

The following is another data point. This is from a document off of the Motorcycle Safety Foundation's web site. To read the entire report >>CLICK HERE<<

The opening text:

In 2003, the U.S. Department of
Transportation, National Highway Traffic
Safety Administration (NHTSA) in cooperation
with Transport Canada (TC) conducted a
motorcycle brake research project. The
objective of this testing program was to assess
the effectiveness of anti-lock braking systems
(ABS) and combined brake systems (CBS) on
motorcycles using various braking maneuvers
and loading conditions.

Testing was performed with six motorcycles,
representing the dual-purpose, sport, and sport
touring segments for motorcycles. The
following motorcycles were used in the tests:
1. 2002 Honda VFR 800 with ABS & CBS
2. 2002 BMW F650 with ABS
3. 2002 BMW R 1150R with ABS & CBS
4. 2002 BMW R 1150R without ABS or CBS
5. 2004 Yamaha FJR1300 with ABS
6. 2004 Yamaha FJR1300 without ABS

The closing data table:

BrakeTable.jpg


NOTE: 2004 FJRs were available at the end of 2003.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
A friend road my Gen 3 FJR when I first got it (he has C14 (2012) and was his first ride of a Gen 3) and commented that the brakes felt a lot stronger on the C14.

Now seeing that the rotors are actually larger on the FJR 320F vs 310 and 288R vs 270 and assuming pads/pistons etc are as closely to equal in sizing I was surprised at his comment.

I then rode his C14 and this is my take on it. (if you hold very light brake pressure slowing from say 60mph the brakes would get more aggressive the hotter they got without at all changing the breaking pressure). (stock pads on both). The FJR does not exhibit this.

IMO the pads are more aggressive on the 14 and if both bikes had the exact same pad material, the braking would be pretty much identical.

Note the issues C14 owners have/had especially in the early model years with pad build up/ causing feeling of warped rotors .

This seems a non issue with FJR

YMMV

 
I love braking discussions, because everybody talks about everything except the right thing.
Speaking physics-wise, braking is acceleration. You're applying an acceleration vector opposite your direction of travel.

Cornering is acceleration. You're applying an acceleration vector across your direction of travel.

Yanking throttle and running up the gears is acceleration. You're applying an acceleration vector straight ahead.

In all of these situations, the number one factor in how much the acceleration vector affects the bike is the grip available at the tire/road interface.

Brakes do not stop bikes (or cars.) Tires stop bikes. Brakes just convert kinetic energy to heat, and hopefully dissipate that heat.

So when comparing stopping differences, you must consider not just surface quality, temperature, and weight, but the tire.

(I wonder if Jeff would consider adding brake testing to his tire testing, maybe with some pressure differences.)

Bikes have a huge disadvantage in tires compared to cars. My '95 Probe GT has four 225/50-16 paws on the ground, weighs half again what a Miata weighs, has smaller rotors than the Miata, and will out-stop it every time. At least the first time. The Miata's larger brakes can dissipate more heat, so I get brake fade sooner. Anyway, that 225mm tread width is all on the road, in a very wide contact patch. A bike tire has maybe 15 or 20% as much rubber on the road. Partly from having half as many tires, but mostly from having tires with a round, not flat, profile. That flat area on your rear tire after 2000 slab miles? That's all the rubber you put on the ground.

We make up for it by using incredibly soft rubber. If your bike tire had the same rubber as your SUV, you couldn't ride it. Breathe on the throttle, you'd spin the rear. Breathe again on the brake lever and you'd stop the front tire cold. To make our bikes usable, we put up with tire mileage we'd never accept for our cars, just to get the grip we need.

That grip is what runs, turns, and stops our bikes. Not the engine, not the handlebar, not the brakes.
That pretty much says it all. Michelin would probably be happy to have you as a spokesperson!!

 
Top