Cam chain tensioner [CCT}

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sparkyduc

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Are the tensioners hard to replace ? Found the survey but nothing about how to change. Just got done checking valve clearances, have all bodywork off. Thanks for any help.

 
Just did my first one today. Yeah, they are kind of a pain in the ass. All because of that lower bolt. If you can get a tool that fits it, not as bad.

BTW, how did your valve check go?

I've been party to 3 valve checks in the last two weeks and all needed re-shimming.

 
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Just did my first one today. Yeah, they are kind of a pain in the ass. All because of that lower bolt. If you can get a tool that fits it, not as bad.

BTW, how did your valve check go?

I've been party to 3 valve checks in the last two weeks and all needed re-shimming.
All within specs, what did you use to remove the lower bolt? that is really tite!!!!

 
Most folks sacrifice an 8mm box wrench by cutting the other end off and making a short wrench. That's the only way you can turn the bolt far enough, because a full length wrench won't go through enough of a circle to catch the next set of points on the socket.

My own solution was to remove the clutch cover, stuff a rag in the bottom so nothing would fall into the crankcase, and the resulting opening gave me plenty of room to swing a normal wrench.

Make sure you remove the crank cover, too, and zip-tie across the chain to keep it tight while the tensioner comes out. Wouldn't want the chai to drop off the crank sprocket and slip a tooth or two. . . .

 
Just did my first one today. Yeah, they are kind of a pain in the ass. All because of that lower bolt. If you can get a tool that fits it, not as bad.

BTW, how did your valve check go?

I've been party to 3 valve checks in the last two weeks and all needed re-shimming.
All within specs, what did you use to remove the lower bolt? that is really tite!!!!
Mine was done at a guy's place who had lots of tools. We ended up using two 8mm craftsman 12 pt combination box/open-end wrenches. One was a ignition wrench. I would alternate back and forth between the two wrenches as they had different 'angles'. I could not get one full stroke with either wrench, but alternating between the two could get that full stroke.

Good ideal Walt. If you don't have the proper tool for that lower bolt, removing the clutch cover may be a good, even if PITA, way to go.

 
I don't know if you have Kincrome Gear Spanners in the USA.

I just made sure that the ratchet is fine enough to swing in the space.

The first ring spanners I bought was too wide to fit along side the CCT

Kincrome Gear Spanners

8mm part # K3108

10mm part # K3110

The story of my CCT change

 
I don't know if you have Kincrome Gear Spanners in the USA.

I just made sure that the ratchet is fine enough to swing in the space.

The first ring spanners I bought was too wide to fit along side the CCT

Kincrome Gear Spanners

8mm part # K3108

10mm part # K3110

The story of my CCT change
Not available here Ken. Thanks for the try however. Seems that wrench might not work on a Gen I from one of the links I read?

Could you post a photo of your Desert Metallic? I always liked that color and wish we would have had that option here in the states.

 
I found a 5/16" ignition wrench also fit on the 8 mm bolt. I had a couple and they were different enough in angle to get that lower bolt loose.

 
Be VERY CAREFUL when it comes to getting that lower bolt loose! I rounded the corners of mine because of a crappy wrench (which I thought was a good wrench). It took me two days to figure out how to get that thing off! I finally got it off by cutting down a Craftsman 8mm socket (the type that grips the side of the bolt, not the angles) and drilling a hole through the back of it to provide a way to turn it.

 
If you don't have ignition wrenches available, take any good 6 point box end and cut the open end off until you are left with about 3" or so. You can work from the bottom and now have way more swing clearance with the shorter wrench.

 
Most folks sacrifice an 8mm box wrench by cutting the other end off and making a short wrench. That's the only way you can turn the bolt far enough, because a full length wrench won't go through enough of a circle to catch the next set of points on the socket.

My own solution was to remove the clutch cover, stuff a rag in the bottom so nothing would fall into the crankcase, and the resulting opening gave me plenty of room to swing a normal wrench.

Make sure you remove the crank cover, too, and zip-tie across the chain to keep it tight while the tensioner comes out. Wouldn't want the chai to drop off the crank sprocket and slip a tooth or two. . . .
I read this approach from you, I think in Bluesman's thread. I also removed the clutch cover. Very easy to do. With that off, I used a 8mm craftsman ratcheting wrench and easily took off the old CCT, pulled it out the bottom, and reinstalled the new one. No need to cut wrenches or use something hard to find. Thanks for the tip.

 
I used a 1/4" drive 10mm socket at the end of a 10" long 1/4" drive extension through the inspection/adjustment hole on the frame. Worked a treat and I didn't have to ruin a wrench to do it. :dntknw:

How hard could it be?? :dntknw:

jeremy-clarkson.jpg


 
Removing the clutch cover was easier (and cheaper) than going to the tool store to find a long 1/4" extension.

That's one of the many useful items missing from my little tool shed.

 
Removing the clutch cover was easier (and cheaper) than going to the tool store to find a long 1/4" extension.

That's one of the many useful items missing from my little tool shed.
WFOOSHEE, You mean to tell me that you don't have a 1/4" drive 10" long extension in your bag of tricks? I have many that I don't use anymore, I'll bring one to you the next time I'm up there in Florida's frozen tundra! :D

 
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I used a 1/4" drive 10mm socket at the end of a 10" long 1/4" drive extension through the inspection/adjustment hole on the frame. Worked a treat and I didn't have to ruin a wrench to do it. :dntknw:

How hard could it be?? :dntknw:

jeremy-clarkson.jpg
Howie, haven't been able to get a 10mm socket through the hole on the three I've done (Gen 1 & 2)....... even tried a wobble extension.... and that only loosens the tensioner cap bolt.... the 8 mm bolts must be done from inside or bottom.

 
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