sparkyduc
Member
Are the tensioners hard to replace ? Found the survey but nothing about how to change. Just got done checking valve clearances, have all bodywork off. Thanks for any help.
All within specs, what did you use to remove the lower bolt? that is really tite!!!!Just did my first one today. Yeah, they are kind of a pain in the ass. All because of that lower bolt. If you can get a tool that fits it, not as bad.
BTW, how did your valve check go?
I've been party to 3 valve checks in the last two weeks and all needed re-shimming.
Mine was done at a guy's place who had lots of tools. We ended up using two 8mm craftsman 12 pt combination box/open-end wrenches. One was a ignition wrench. I would alternate back and forth between the two wrenches as they had different 'angles'. I could not get one full stroke with either wrench, but alternating between the two could get that full stroke.All within specs, what did you use to remove the lower bolt? that is really tite!!!!Just did my first one today. Yeah, they are kind of a pain in the ass. All because of that lower bolt. If you can get a tool that fits it, not as bad.
BTW, how did your valve check go?
I've been party to 3 valve checks in the last two weeks and all needed re-shimming.
Not available here Ken. Thanks for the try however. Seems that wrench might not work on a Gen I from one of the links I read?I don't know if you have Kincrome Gear Spanners in the USA.
I just made sure that the ratchet is fine enough to swing in the space.
The first ring spanners I bought was too wide to fit along side the CCT
Kincrome Gear Spanners
8mm part # K3108
10mm part # K3110
The story of my CCT change
+1 to that!!Cut a screwdriver slot in both bolts before you replace them..
I read this approach from you, I think in Bluesman's thread. I also removed the clutch cover. Very easy to do. With that off, I used a 8mm craftsman ratcheting wrench and easily took off the old CCT, pulled it out the bottom, and reinstalled the new one. No need to cut wrenches or use something hard to find. Thanks for the tip.Most folks sacrifice an 8mm box wrench by cutting the other end off and making a short wrench. That's the only way you can turn the bolt far enough, because a full length wrench won't go through enough of a circle to catch the next set of points on the socket.
My own solution was to remove the clutch cover, stuff a rag in the bottom so nothing would fall into the crankcase, and the resulting opening gave me plenty of room to swing a normal wrench.
Make sure you remove the crank cover, too, and zip-tie across the chain to keep it tight while the tensioner comes out. Wouldn't want the chai to drop off the crank sprocket and slip a tooth or two. . . .
WFOOSHEE, You mean to tell me that you don't have a 1/4" drive 10" long extension in your bag of tricks? I have many that I don't use anymore, I'll bring one to you the next time I'm up there in Florida's frozen tundra!Removing the clutch cover was easier (and cheaper) than going to the tool store to find a long 1/4" extension.
That's one of the many useful items missing from my little tool shed.
Howie, haven't been able to get a 10mm socket through the hole on the three I've done (Gen 1 & 2)....... even tried a wobble extension.... and that only loosens the tensioner cap bolt.... the 8 mm bolts must be done from inside or bottom.I used a 1/4" drive 10mm socket at the end of a 10" long 1/4" drive extension through the inspection/adjustment hole on the frame. Worked a treat and I didn't have to ruin a wrench to do it. :dntknw:
How hard could it be?? :dntknw:
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