Cam chain tensioner [CCT}

[RadioHowie]

I used a 1/4" drive 10mm socket at the end of a 10" long 1/4" drive extension through the inspection/adjustment hole on the frame. Worked a treat and I didn't have to ruin a wrench to do it. :dntknw:

How hard could it be?? :dntknw:

Howie, haven't been able to get a 10mm socket through the hole on the three I've done (Gen 1 & 2)....... even tried a wobble extension.... and that only loosens the tensioner cap bolt.... the 8 mm bolts must be done from inside or bottom.

First of all, you're right...the mounting bolts are 8mm, the cap bolt is 10mm.

I slid the extension through the inspection hole FIRST, and plugged it in to the socket I already had placed on the bolt heads, held in place with a shop "magnet-on-a-stick". It was a wobble extension, so not being a perfectly straight shot at the socket didn't matter.

 

[road runner]

I used a 1/4" extension and a 8mm swivel socket. Stick the ext threw the frame, then use a pair of long needle nose to put the swivel socket on the ext.

For the install I used a hack saw to cut a slot in the top of all 3 bolts. Then used the same screw driver used to adjust the tensioner, to install the bolts. Then snug them with a wrench and done. Installing with a screw driver was way easier.

 

[MNFJR]

Most folks sacrifice an 8mm box wrench by cutting the other end off and making a short wrench. That's the only way you can turn the bolt far enough, because a full length wrench won't go through enough of a circle to catch the next set of points on the socket.

My own solution was to remove the clutch cover, stuff a rag in the bottom so nothing would fall into the crankcase, and the resulting opening gave me plenty of room to swing a normal wrench.

Make sure you remove the crank cover, too, and zip-tie across the chain to keep it tight while the tensioner comes out. Wouldn't want the chai to drop off the crank sprocket and slip a tooth or two. . . .

Did you have to replace the clutch cover gasket?

 

[Micro33]

Ok just replaced my first CCT on my 05 FJR with 52K miles on her. The sound I heard would come after a few minutes of warming up and only at idle. The sound was sort of like rattling loose chain in your pocket (well maybe not) but it was not ticking. Anyway, using the only the several directions posted here I was able to replace it with absolutely no problems. A little tight of course as mentioned several times but not really that bad. I took the route of taking the clutch cover off and I think this made all the difference in the world. I did make sure to cover the large opening down into the lower crank case, but other than that it was very straight forward. Tied up the cam chain of course, I would like to mention here though, don’t over tighten the zip tie or when you go to replace the cover the rear guide rod may not line up very well and with the new CCT under tension it proves a little tricky but not that bad. I did not replace the gasket on the clutch plate or the cam chain plate, since I did not think to order them, but with the small amount of oil in each area it may not be a problem, right? I'll keep an eye on it just in case.

After reading a couple horror stories here, the first time you hit the starter makes you pucker, no matter what but she purrs like a kitten!!

Anyway, I just wanted to let everyone know who is a little apprehensive about this job, it’s not that bad at all. Just follow the directions here and take your time!!

I would suggest a good bright headlamp, and take pictures of which bolts go where as some are longer than others!!

Thanks to everyone who took the time to share their knowledge here, it is greatly appreciated!!

Regards,

Al

 

[MNFJR]

Just did my 05 as well. I concur on removing the clutch cover.The biggest pain in the ass was getting the old gasket off of the cam chain cover.

Also, notching the bolts for the cct is the ticket. Big time saver.