Can the fuel tank be raised to high changing the plugs?

[428Cobra]

[SIZE=12pt]Removed & replaced my sparkplugs last night. All went well (thanks fjr forum!). The only problem was getting the front fuel tank allen bolts in. The tank seemed to have moved back just enough to make it difficult to start them. Also the starboard, aft tank plastic trim allen bolt did not want to line up without a healthy push forward on the tank. :blink: [/SIZE]

Bottom line is I got all bolts/trim pieces on and tank bolted in. In retrospect did I raise the tank to high causing the tank to shift causing the mis-alignment?

Or since I got it all back together (with no leftover parts ), forget it and just ride?

 

[Ignacio]

I'm not sure if a Gen 1 and Gen 2 are different in this respect, but what you describe is common in my experience.

You probably just removed the two bolts at the top of the tank and lifted up? If so, then the tightened single bolt at the back will turn slightly grudgingly, but the whole affair will seems tweaked when you put the tank back down. It's not...it's just that back bolt bracket shifted position.

For more piece of mind loosen that bolt slightly when you do the process and things will line up more smoothly.

 

[Khunajawdge]

For more piece of mind loosen that bolt slightly when you do the process and things will line up more smoothly.

When I had the tank up on my 'O5 (Gen I), I took the opportunity to make a small 1/2 inch block with appropriately drilled holes through it, to raise the front of the tank 1/2". I did need to get some slightly longer 10mm bolts to hold the tank down atop the wooden block, but it was amazing how much cooler the Gen I bike became when riding on a Hot day. This became one way of opening up the fairing on a Gen I for more air flow through the engine bay. Not sure if this mod will do any good at all on a Gen II, other than allowing for possible new bolt alignment/tank adjustment?

 

[Wolfhound]

I just take the one more bolt out , disconnect lines & remove the tank completely, pretty easy. Slips right back on. You are right again Iggy, It the same "problem" with Gen II front tank bolts. Insert smiley

 

[428Cobra]

[SIZE=12pt]Thanks for the quick replies! [/SIZE]

That rear bolt is what I did not figure into the mix.

Roger that - I'll keep that in mind next time I'm under the tank!

 

[GPRIDER]

I used to use a piece of wood, on my 04, to gently wedge under the back of the tank and push it forward just enough to get the bolts in at the front of the tank. Doesn't work the same with the 08. My piece of wood won't fit in the same spot to push it forward. I think I pushed on the rear of the tank this last time with my hand just enough to get one of the bolts started. Just make sure the bolt at the rear of the tank is loose. FJRobert is right. It's not that much harder to take the tank completely off. Leaves a lot more room for working in that area.

GP

 

[ELP_JC]

Perfectly normal on the GenII as well. I also asked myself 'WTF happened here' the first time. It's just normal braket play. And since removing the tank wouldn't help you to synch your TBs, I looked for a different solution. It came in the form of a Suzuki SV1000 tank prop I found long after selling the bike (oops!). Just had to widen the round base a bit, and install the part shown to hold the tank at the height I wanted. You could buy one for nothing at a junk yard. Hope this helps the gang. Later.

 

[CHRIS_D]

ELP JC

Nice tool to prop up the tank!!

By the way dont' forget to tighten that long bolt on the tank. The nut will fall off if it's loose. Don't ask me how I know this.

 

[SouthernCruizer]

Perfectly normal on the GenII as well. I also asked myself 'WTF happened here' the first time. It's just normal braket play. And since removing the tank wouldn't help you to synch your TBs, I looked for a different solution. It came in the form of a Suzuki SV1000 tank prop I found long after selling the bike (oops!). Just had to widen the round base a bit, and install the part shown to hold the tank at the height I wanted. You could buy one for nothing at a junk yard. Hope this helps the gang. Later.

*************************

now THAT is a useful tip!! Thanks :clapping:

Jay

'04 FJR 1300

 

[SkooterG]

When I don't use Warchild's rope method, I just use a 2X4 to hold up the tank, same as that metal rod.

 

[428Cobra]

[SIZE=12pt]Thanks for the tool tip ELP_ JC! [/SIZE]

FJR forum is the best. :yahoo:

 

[ELP_JC]

I just use a 2X4 to hold up the tank, same as that metal rod.

And does it fit under your pillion seat? Didn't think so :lol: . And which one looks better? Just kidding man. Forgot to say the rod is rubber-coated at the base.

Chris, that tank nut was the first thing I changed when I raised the tank for the first time. I put a NYLOCK nut instead, so I left it a bit loose without fear of losing it. Now I don't have to fight the tank to install the front allen bolts, and tank goes up and down without creaking and moaning, and without having to loosen that sucker every time. Perfect solution. Hope this helps as well.

JC

 

[kawabeemer]

The 'heavy wire prop' for fuel tanks is a standard tool for ALL brands in the shop that I work in. Technicians tend to find the tools that are most useful.

 

[motochick]

Perfectly normal on the GenII as well. I also asked myself 'WTF happened here' the first time. It's just normal braket play. And since removing the tank wouldn't help you to synch your TBs, I looked for a different solution. It came in the form of a Suzuki SV1000 tank prop I found long after selling the bike (oops!). Just had to widen the round base a bit, and install the part shown to hold the tank at the height I wanted. You could buy one for nothing at a junk yard. Hope this helps the gang. Later.

Darn I just sold my SV1000 last week with the tool :blink:

Right now I'm trying to get the tank up to do a TB sync and unwind that spring but it doesn't seem like my tank goes up far enough to get in there to work :angry: .

 

[2WheelTiger]

Wooden dowel rod.

 

[Harald]

No need for a fancy smancy tool. With the tank raised as far as it will go with the rear bolt still in place but loosened, measure the distance between the tank front mount flange and frame mounting point (where the tool will go to hold the tank up). Deduct about 1 inch from this measurement and cut a piece of 2x4 lumber to that length. Take 4 small finishing nails and drive 2 into each end of your 2x4 so that only about 1/4 inch sticks out and they align with the mounting holes. Now you can use this "tool" to hold the tank up and not worry about the 2x4 slipping out and dropping the tank on your head. :axesmiley:

 

[mcatrophy]

QUOTE (Harald @ Oct 22 2008, 11:23 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

No need for a fancy smancy tool. With the tank raised as far as it will go with the rear bolt still in place but loosened, measure the distance between the tank front mount flange and frame mounting point (where the tool will go to hold the tank up). Deduct about 1 inch from this measurement and cut a piece of 2x4 lumber to that length. Take 4 small finishing and drive 2 into each end of your 2x4 so that only about 1/4 inch sticks out and they align with the mounting holes. Now you can use this "tool" to hold the tank up and not worry about the 2x4 slipping out and dropping the tank on your head.

A bit like this?

(Click on any image for larger view)



I find the single dowel quite adequate, although the bottom could possibly slip on the frame. It's never done yet (touches the wood).

And, in case anyone's not sure of that rear tank bolt,

 

[Warchild]

I just use a 2X4 to hold up the tank, same as that metal rod.

And does it fit under your pillion seat?

The rope fits easily most anywhere on the bike.... but it may not be high-tech enough for some..... :lol:

FJRTech: Working under the fuel tank

 

[turbodave_98]

I use two each bungie cords to hold up the tank on my AE. attach the hooks to the forward tank attach holes and then stretch the bungies aft and attach them to the pillion handhold. carry the bungies along for road side use.