Changed all fluids...

[Mark0212]

Well, finally got around to changing all fluids on my 2008 AE. Bought the bike in 2009, and my guess is that it had been sitting for awhile. Was one of those AE leftovers nobody wanted. Well i'm sure am glad I bought for it!!

Anyway, 3 years and 20K miles later, it was time. Started with the fork; bought Honda fork oil and combined 10w with 5w. The oil that came out was like silver water. :huh: Added new mixture, and the fork is once again up to task if not better than new. Continued with the brakes via MityVac and then moved over to the clutch and finally changed the final drive oil. I was sweating this a little due to the cartridge style fork, automatic clutch and linked braking system, but it was a breeze. :yahoo: I won't wait as long next time. Maybe do it once a year!

 

[odot]

Don't forget to lube up the kanuter valve while yer at it....

 

[wheatonFJR]

Congrats.

I would get yourself an Owners and Service manual to find the recommended intervals between changes.

The FJR is incredibly simple to work on...even for a beginner like me.

 

[Fred W]

Well, finally got around to changing all fluids on my 2008 AE. Bought the bike in 2009, and my guess is that it had been sitting for awhile. Was one of those AE leftovers nobody wanted. Well i'm sure am glad I bought for it!!

Anyway, 3 years and 20K miles later, it was time. Started with the fork; bought Honda fork oil and combined 10w with 5w. The oil that came out was like silver water. :huh: Added new mixture, and the fork is once again up to task if not better than new. Continued with the brakes via MityVac and then moved over to the clutch and finally changed the final drive oil. I was sweating this a little due to the cartridge style fork, automatic clutch and linked braking system, but it was a breeze. :yahoo: I won't wait as long next time. Maybe do it once a year!

Mark, (I assume that is your name from your forum handle)

You may find that, even with cutting the Honda 10W with their 5W, you will have to back off quite a bit on the damping clickers with that in there. THe OEM suspension fluid is most accurately described as a 3W oil. That might have been part of why you said it looked watery. It was considerably thinner than the Honda 5W when it was brand new.

Here's a link to a fairly comprehensive suspension fluids chart that shows the cold and warm viscosity properties of a bunch of different fork oils. It can be helpful in trying to achieve a certain damping response.

 

[Bounce]

now that you've done it once and aren't askeert of it any more, consider doing:

clutch/brake/coolant/forks: no less than every other year

rear "dif": no less than every year

your bike will respond by not hitting you with high repair costs as often.

 

[Intech]

Satisfying doing your own maintenance on your bike isn't it? Makes you feel more a part of it.

 

[escapefjrtist]

For those using the stock fork internals, Pro Honda SS-7 is an economical and very close viscosity match to Yamaha 01 fluid. You'll need three pints for a fill.

As others have mentioned, get to know the bike...it's simple to maintain (even for a caveman) and you'll have the satisfaction of saving some $$$ and knowing it's done right.

--G

 

[odot]

Oh, god....even for a caveman?.....yer dead, buddy...................DEAD.

 

[escapefjrtist]

odot, thinking of anyone in particular?

--G

 

[Mark0212]

Well, finally got around to changing all fluids on my 2008 AE. Bought the bike in 2009, and my guess is that it had been sitting for awhile. Was one of those AE leftovers nobody wanted. Well i'm sure am glad I bought for it!!

Anyway, 3 years and 20K miles later, it was time. Started with the fork; bought Honda fork oil and combined 10w with 5w. The oil that came out was like silver water. :huh: Added new mixture, and the fork is once again up to task if not better than new. Continued with the brakes via MityVac and then moved over to the clutch and finally changed the final drive oil. I was sweating this a little due to the cartridge style fork, automatic clutch and linked braking system, but it was a breeze. :yahoo: I won't wait as long next time. Maybe do it once a year!

Mark, (I assume that is your name from your forum handle)

You may find that, even with cutting the Honda 10W with their 5W, you will have to back off quite a bit on the damping clickers with that in there. THe OEM suspension fluid is most accurately described as a 3W oil. That might have been part of why you said it looked watery. It was considerably thinner than the Honda 5W when it was brand new.

Here's a link to a fairly comprehensive suspension fluids chart that shows the cold and warm viscosity properties of a bunch of different fork oils. It can be helpful in trying to achieve a certain damping response.

Your right, it is Mark!

And I have noticed that the fork is a little harsher with the same settings I had previously. I definitely need to back off the compression and maybe a little on the rebound. I did not know it was 3w instead of 5w. So now I'm somewhere around 7w, so i'll have to tweak it a bit, but I think it will work better for me, since I tend to be somewhat aggressive in my riding style.

 

[Fred W]

Well, finally got around to changing all fluids on my 2008 AE. Bought the bike in 2009, and my guess is that it had been sitting for awhile. Was one of those AE leftovers nobody wanted. Well i'm sure am glad I bought for it!!

Anyway, 3 years and 20K miles later, it was time. Started with the fork; bought Honda fork oil and combined 10w with 5w. The oil that came out was like silver water. :huh: Added new mixture, and the fork is once again up to task if not better than new. Continued with the brakes via MityVac and then moved over to the clutch and finally changed the final drive oil. I was sweating this a little due to the cartridge style fork, automatic clutch and linked braking system, but it was a breeze. :yahoo: I won't wait as long next time. Maybe do it once a year!

Mark, (I assume that is your name from your forum handle)

You may find that, even with cutting the Honda 10W with their 5W, you will have to back off quite a bit on the damping clickers with that in there. THe OEM suspension fluid is most accurately described as a 3W oil. That might have been part of why you said it looked watery. It was considerably thinner than the Honda 5W when it was brand new.

Here's a link to a fairly comprehensive suspension fluids chart that shows the cold and warm viscosity properties of a bunch of different fork oils. It can be helpful in trying to achieve a certain damping response.

Your right, it is Mark!

And I have noticed that the fork is a little harsher with the same settings I had previously. I definitely need to back off the compression and maybe a little on the rebound. I did not know it was 3w instead of 5w. So now I'm somewhere around 7w, so i'll have to tweak it a bit, but I think it will work better for me, since I tend to be somewhat aggressive in my riding style.

That's the way to do it. :thumbsup:

If you find that after adjustment you still don't like the response of the forks, try a different weight oil. Using a heavier (or lighter) oil will affect the response of the fork in more ways than just those that the clickers can impact.

 

[TwoWhldTerror]

How hard was it to change the fork oil? I have never done it and could imagine it needs it (2006 model).

 

[odot]

It's a pain in the ass. First you have to drill a hole in the bottom of the forks to drain out the oil. Then you have to get some fast weld or duct tape to cover that hole up(your choice). Then you have to drill another hole on top that is big enough to put oil in the fork. Remember to cover that hole up also since you don't want to get any dirt er sumpin in there. About seven ounces if I recall correctly is what it takes to fill that sucker up.

 

[wheatonFJR]

How hard was it to change the fork oil? I have never done it and could imagine it needs it (2006 model).

Not too bad. Why doncha have a gander at this...and decide for yourself.

Either way, you should do it, or a dealer should do it. 6 years is probably not the recommended service interval in the manual...

 

[900gc]

It's a pain in the ass. First you have to drill a hole in the bottom of the forks to drain out the oil. Then you have to get some fast weld or duct tape to cover that hole up(your choice). Then you have to drill another hole on top that is big enough to put oil in the fork. Remember to cover that hole up also since you don't want to get any dirt er sumpin in there. About seven ounces if I recall correctly is what it takes to fill that sucker up.

To quote Dr. Phil: "How's that working for you?"

 

[SeattleTy]

Following all the maintenance intervals will benefit you greatly and the overall motorcycle performance

 

[RaYzerman19]

It's a pain in the ass. First you have to drill a hole in the bottom of the forks to drain out the oil. Then you have to get some fast weld or duct tape to cover that hole up(your choice). Then you have to drill another hole on top that is big enough to put oil in the fork. Remember to cover that hole up also since you don't want to get any dirt er sumpin in there. About seven ounces if I recall correctly is what it takes to fill that sucker up.

I'm having a problem getting the duct tape to stick. Is there some magical cleaning procedure or adhesion promoter I should be using? I did notice that the drip on the bottom of the forks does miss the edge of the tire, so thought that was a good thing.

 

[odot]

edge sealer, dude......