Changing Clutch Engagement Point WITHOUT Adjusting the Lever

[nwrider1]

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll check out the Pazzo levers, but I like bustanut's simplicity of putting a spacer in the slave cyl. I'm sure you wouldn't want to compromise the depth that the push rod seats into the slave cyl. too much because the spacer will reduce the lateral support available for the push rod. Bustanut, Did you find that the length of the modified screw was proportional to the movement of the engagement point?

 

[Bustanut joker]

Sure did. I had it too thick at first and experienced slight clutch slippage when I got on it.. ground it back some and cured that..

Damn I wish I'd have wrote down how thick that thing is. Then again I think it's going to vary bike to bike.

re the Pazzos. Pretty much a drop in deal.. I believe Frank Tompa has a set and told me this.

:jester:

 

[nwrider1]

Thanks,

It'll be a few days, but I'll report back on what length works on my bike.

 

[Zorlac]

A piece of .187" (3/16") dia scrap steel rod from something or other cut to .128" (1/8") long dropped into the clutch slave piston cup where it presses on the clutch push rod has put my friction zone just about mid way on the clutch handle at adjustment position 5 (closest) Thanks Bust!

This tweak and the R1 shift lever mod have made my FJR shift like a whole new bike! :yahoo:

 

[Fred W]

Zorlac,

Could you expound further on this mod, and your exact experience?

My understanding of the way that hydraulic clutch master and slaves was that it wouldn't matter how long the clutch push rod is because the master cylinder will just "auto adjust" to the new slave cylinder position. Just as if the clutch lining was wearing or the linings had just been replaced.

 

[Zorlac]

Fred, could I just call you?

It's too much typing.

 

[nwrider1]

Zorlac,

Thanks for the follow up I'll give .128 a try.

 

[nwrider1]

Ok, I ended up with .1875" diameter and 0.200" overall length. I counter drilled one end to cup and center the clutch rod, so the effective length is about 0.150". With the clutch lever adjustment on #4, the engagement starts about 1/3 of the lever travel from the handlebar. Much better -- thanks for the suggestions.

 

[Fred W]

That's awesome that this works. I admit to being skeptical, but if multiple folks are getting the same positive results, well you just can't argue with results! Nice work.

This is definitely one of those nagging little things that people complain about on 2nd gens. So the hot setup would seem to be replace the clutch slave for easier pull and insert a spacer to move the engagement point out to where you want it.

 

[road runner]

Nice work guys.

Does anyone know what is the lenght and diameter of the push rod ? Also is it straight, and what kind of ends does it have ( ball or cup ) ?

I know for auto engines you can order custom length and dia. adjustable pushrods. I don't know how much one would be though. If you know the overall lenght you can order one in a non adjustable rod also. Just thinking out loud.

I think the spacer is an easy and effective way to go.

 

[nwrider1]

I can't tell you the length of the push rod since I haven't taken it out. However, the diameter of the push rod is 5.5 mm and the end is rounded to fit in the cupped hole in the slave cylinder. The 3/16" rod = 4.8 mm. I bought a 36" long rod from the hardware store for $2. I center punched one end and used a 3/16" drill bit to drill the end just enough to be sure to center the clutch rod. I then cut it at 0.200" and chamferred the edges of the cut end with a file to help center the spacer in the slave cylinder.

 

[Bustanut joker]

I too thought it would just be a lesson in futility Fred, but the thick spacer proved me wrong when I had a bit of slippage.

:jester:

 

[johnny80s]

I am going to try this. My engagement point is too close to the grip with my grip puppies on. I had to adjust my Pazzos out to compensate. I want them in farther.

Now I have another project. Thanks guys.

 

[not2shabby]

Hmmm, I'm going to have to try this. My engagement point is way to close to the grip, but I've just dealt with it.

 

[not2shabby]

Ok, got a stupid question...it is Friday, so wtf! I assume you can remove the slave cylinder to add the spacer w/o draining the clutch fluid...correct?

 

[Zorlac]

Not stupid.

Yes.

 

[not2shabby]

Sweet! Thanks.

 

[nwrider1]

Here's an update on the addition of a spacer on my FJR GenII with a GEN I clutch slave cyl.

I first reported using a spacer of 0.20 inches in length with one end counter drilled (CD) to center the clutch rod. I noticed a bit of slippage --- like the engagement point changed from starting out from a stop vs shifting up through the gears once moving.

I then made another spacer at 0.145 + CD. When starting out from a stop the engagement point is still quite close to the grip, but no slippage was noticed.

I made yet another spacer at 0.182 + CD. The initial engagement point didn't change, but I did notice brief slippage before the engine had warmed up completely. I was unable to repeat the slippage once the engine was up to temperature. When shifting up though the gears and slightly preloading the shift lever, smooth shifts were made with the clutch lever about 2/3 of the way out with the adjustment at "5". I must say, I'm baffled as to why the initial clutch engagement from a stop comes at different point than when shifting when moving. I have several other bikes with hydraulic clutches, and none exhibit this trait.

Thoughts?

 

[road runner]

Just a thought.

I can shift mine quite nice without using the clutch while moving. So it seems to make sence that you would need less clutch movement while moving.

 

[nwrider1]

Well, I just got back from a 350 mile ride today (including the Rose City 250). The clutch slipped several times while passing. Rolling off the throttle slightly was enough to allow the clutch to hook up again. So, it's back to the 0.145 spacer. The GEN I + GENII 08 -10 clutch slave cyl's reduced effort is really nice though. This was my first long ride with the "new to me" 07.

Roadrunner -- since I haven't done clutchless shifts since my early Beemer days, I hadn't thought about that -- could be.