Chock

[FastSpy]

I strongly recommend against this idea. I tried it with my ST1100 when I first bought my Condor Chock and the bike ended up against the side of the trailer (enclosed trailer).
I really like Condor Chocks, but you have to respect the heavy bike, and tie it down front and rear to have a secure transport.

If you are just riding on level roads with large radius turns at modest speeds, you might get away with the lazy approach of two tie downs. It took less than 15 miles for my ST1100 to get into trouble.

An FJR is very similar in geometry and weight to an ST1100, and I would expect similar. I was not dumb enough to try it with the FJR.

One other comment on the Condor Chock. If you don't want the entry lip on the chock to dig a hole in your lower cowl, cut the lip off the chock, and make sure you've picked your pivot point so that it will fully clear the cowl under all suspension excursions. I transported my FJR in a Condor Chock about 1350 miles on one trip, and I did not have the pivot in its optimal position. I powdered a fair amount of plastic with this mistake.

In general I like Condor Chocks, but Condor did not get along as well with my FJR as it does with my other bikes. And I certainly wouldn't trust the two tie down method. Looks cool. Didn't work for me.

Did one of your straps come loose or unhooked to allow your bike to tip? I don't know how the bike could tip without this happening. I have pulled mine side to side as hard as possible and there is no way the bike will tip unless a strap breaks or if it comes off a tie down point. I use clips hooks which will not come off the tie down points.

As for your suggestion about the chock digging into the lower cowl. I'm not sure if you are aware but you can reverse the chock mechanism in the bracket that lowers the contact point and minimizes any interference with the cowl on bikes such as the FJR. Mine is several inches from the lower cowl and will not ever touch it.. no matter what. I'll photograph it soon to show clearly what I'm talking about.

 

[RinconVTR]

I think this question comes up because some manufactures claim you dont need to use tie downs with their chocks but people doubt that and try quick methods to feel safer. Well, I'm all for using tie downs with these clamp style chocks, but tieing the tire to the chock is not using the tie downs effectively.

IMO, tie the bike down (in addition to the clamp style chocks) almost as you would when we didn’t have these self supporting style chocks.

If you’re only going to use two ties, then pick any place from mid bike to the handle bars or triple to tie to, then angle the strap forward to a tie down point to create a forward pull on the bike. This is most commonly recommended by the chock manufactures.

For longer trips, I use 4 tie downs then tie all 4 corners of the bike to the four corners of the trailer. Basically the chock is used just to hold the bike up while I tie it down, effectively becoming an old school chock.

Oh…and don’t forget to block the rear tire for side to side movement in any case...

 

[Allnight]

I've got the Condor SC2000 (the trailer-only model mentioned above).

I've only trailered the FJR once, about a thousand miles. I had one strap holding the tire tight to the vertical part of the chock, and then two straps at the far end, similar to what their video shows. Lots of bumps and turns, no issue.

Sorry to hear about the damage, El Toro...and relieved it didn't happen to me!

 

[cdc]

I have one more question after watching the video (Condor) i think they recommend the tire to be off the base?

Ideally, is the tire supposed to touch the base of the chock while being held front and rear? (In the 3 points shown below?)

 

[na1g]

I don't think it's a good idea to use a wheel chock as the only support for the front end of a 640 pound motorycle. The front wheel is not designed to take lateral forces that could be encountered in a hard turn. Use a Canyon Dancer or similar but only snug enough to prevent side-to-side movement. BTW, Canyon Dancer has a new model with cups that go over the bar ends to keep the cross-strap off the switch gear and protect the twist grips.

I don't do a lot of trailering but have used the Baxley Sport Chock (Baxley was one of the first to come out with the clamping wheel chock and it's a very nicely designed item)), Canyon Dancers, and tie-downs at the rear. Plenty secure, even on our Massachusetts "roads".

pete

 

[RinconVTR]

I have one more question after watching the video (Condor) i think they recommend the tire to be off the base?
Ideally, is the tire supposed to touch the base of the chock while being held front and rear? (In the 3 points shown below?)

There is supposed to be a slight gap at the base, ideally. This gives you visual assurance the tire is pinched 100% using its weight to its full effectiveness and not resting some of its weight on the base of the chock.

 

[El Toro]

I've got the Condor SC2000 (the trailer-only model mentioned above).
I've only trailered the FJR once, about a thousand miles. I had one strap holding the tire tight to the vertical part of the chock, and then two straps at the far end, similar to what their video shows. Lots of bumps and turns, no issue.

Sorry to hear about the damage, El Toro...and relieved it didn't happen to me!

My test of the Condor chock was many years ago, and the ST1100 was a tough bike. I don't think I had to actually replace any parts. No harm no foul.

I have several of the trailer only models. I use them in trailers (two in one, one in one), I use them on lifts (one on hydraulic lift, one on air lift), I use one on the chassis dyno. The trailer only chock can actually be bolted down to any surface, so its not really trailer only. It just isn't free standing without bolting it down.

I also have a couple of the free standing model. I use them in the garage, to check oil, and to hold bike steady if I'm not using the overhead winch system.

Hey, you'all can tie your bikes down however you want. When I did the ST1100 test, it was my first test with a Condor, and I was impressed by the video. I was hoping it would be legitimate, and I took the bike on a fairly wild ride up and down the Cumberland plateau, off camber switchbacks, and trailer straining stuff. I wanted to see if it was worth the risk of hauling a more valuable bike 1500 miles.

My experience was that it was not worth the risk, and at that time I made the trip with a Canyon Dancer Bar Harness and a set of Ancor tie downs to the frame at the rear.

I did not get the FJR until several years later, and I never tried the video recommended method with the FJR.

It takes so little extra effort to tie a bike in carefully, that I'm not going to chintz on this activity.... YMMV, just like everything else.

One thing I would point out is that I did not say that the Condor would dig into your lower cowl. I said to be sure you've positioned the pivot point so that it won't, and I suggested cutting off the entry lip, which really adds nothing to the locking or loading capability of the Condor.

 

[JamesK]

IMHO the only time a bike like the FJR belongs on a trailer is when either it or you are damaged. As far as I'm concerned any kind of riding is better than not riding!

If you have any HD buddies/neighbors ask them, most of them are experts at trailering bikes

The first time in 90k miles that my '07 FJR lost it's trailer virginity is when it was picked up to get shipped overseas. If the wife doesn't want to ride "there" my answer is you drive/fly whatever but my FJR is not a trailer queen.

 

[frito1]

I was a 'bit' afraid to ask, but I am glad I did and thank you for your responses.I have not done too many long rides and we are going to Clarksville (AK) for two days of riding around the area, but it is 550 miles from Houston; so to me, the idea of a 9+hr ride is not fun.

I thought Alaska (AK) was more than 550 from TX. :huh:

I brought my FJR home last week on a trailer (I wasn't sure of the tire condition prior to the point of sale). I used my dads trailer (he's 72 and sometimes rides and/or trailers) and a proven combination. We used axle straps similar to this https://tinyurl.com/22qlgd6 and two sets of good quality ratchet straps hooked into the axle straps at slightly different angles (one set of anchor points is slightly forward of the other). We loop the axle strap over the lower tree and compress the forks to about 2/3rds of their travel. I don't tie the wheel to the Pingel chock, unless the chock moves from the trailer floor it's not going anywhere. IMHO, if the ties break or come loose a strap to the chock isn't gonna save your ride. We use another set of straps and ratchets to anchor the rear tire to the trailer floor to prevent any bounce or side to side movement. This easily held the FJR and has held my dads #800 HD for many a mile without issue.

 

[cdc]

IMHO the only time a bike like the FJR belongs on a trailer is when either it or you are damaged. As far as I'm concerned any kind of riding is better than not riding!
If you have any HD buddies/neighbors ask them, most of them are experts at trailering bikes

The first time in 90k miles that my '07 FJR lost it's trailer virginity is when it was picked up to get shipped overseas. If the wife doesn't want to ride "there" my answer is you drive/fly whatever but my FJR is not a trailer queen.

JamesK - I admire 'hard core riders', in my case I have not done real long rides, longest one day has been ~250 miles. I was planning a 550 miles ride in one day to meet a group to ride for two days and then return home when someone offered space in a trailer, so I jumped!

So you took yours out of the country and I will take mine out of state

Thanks.

cdc

 

[jmdaniel]

Rear wheel:

Front wheel:

All together now:

After these pictures were taken, I did modify the tie down point for the front straps slightly, to make sure they wouldn't move. Besides the fact that this brand new Kendon trailer was a total POS, this collection of tie downs worked well. In fact, the trailer's horrible shaking really created a good stress test. All Ancra straps and soft ties.

And if you don't trailer your bike, hooray for you! But riding with those ginormous nuts must be awful uncomfortable, big fella!

 

[cdc]

I was a 'bit' afraid to ask, but I am glad I did and thank you for your responses.I have not done too many long rides and we are going to Clarksville (AK) for two days of riding around the area, but it is 550 miles from Houston; so to me, the idea of a 9+hr ride is not fun.

I thought Alaska (AK) was more than 550 from TX. :huh:

I brought my FJR home last week on a trailer (I wasn't sure of the tire condition prior to the point of sale). I used my dads trailer (he's 72 and sometimes rides and/or trailers) and a proven combination. We used axle straps similar to this https://tinyurl.com/22qlgd6 and two sets of good quality ratchet straps hooked into the axle straps at slightly different angles (one set of anchor points is slightly forward of the other). We loop the axle strap over the lower tree and compress the forks to about 2/3rds of their travel. I don't tie the wheel to the Pingel chock, unless the chock moves from the trailer floor it's not going anywhere. IMHO, if the ties break or come loose a strap to the chock isn't gonna save your ride. We use another set of straps and ratchets to anchor the rear tire to the trailer floor to prevent any bounce or side to side movement. This easily held the FJR and has held my dads #800 HD for many a mile without issue.

frito1 - sorry I confused your state with AK ! (I fixed the post)

I will check the link too.

Thanks!!

 

[FastSpy]

One other comment on the Condor Chock. If you don't want the entry lip on the chock to dig a hole in your lower cowl, cut the lip off the chock, and make sure you've picked your pivot point so that it will fully clear the cowl under all suspension excursions. I transported my FJR in a Condor Chock about 1350 miles on one trip, and I did not have the pivot in its optimal position. I powdered a fair amount of plastic with this mistake.

One thing I would point out is that I did not say that the Condor would dig into your lower cowl. I said to be sure you've positioned the pivot point so that it won't, and I suggested cutting off the entry lip, which really adds nothing to the locking or loading capability of the Condor.

All you have to do is flip the chock in the rails to position the extended lip forward of the tire and have the non extended end in the back. You do not need to cut anything off.

 

[BwanaDik]

Is anybody using the Harbor Freight chock? Hard to beat the price. Just wonder if it fits the Feej front wheel.

I use Canyon Dancers, not the best but better than straigh hooks. Looking for a Canyon Dancer II now, probably easier on the bars.

And yes cdc, it's a ***** to live 600+ miles from either a corner or a change in elevation. Most of the "never trailer" types live closer to interesting roads or better weather (I'd take 103F 15%RH anyday over the **** we've been having around here lately) than we do. I've quit riding to NM, I must have done the I-45/287/40 thing a half dozen time this last year. Rather do it in a day in the truck with wifey than take an extra 3 days of 1200 miles of useless wear on the tires/bike, just to say I can do it.

 

[jmdaniel]

I've quit riding to NM, I must have done the I-45/287/40 thing a half dozen time this last year. Rather do it in a day in the truck with wifey than take an extra 3 days of 1200 miles of useless wear on the tires/bike, just to say I can do it.

+1

This was my one day ride back from Denver in July.

Once I got past Raton, it wasn't worth the wear and tear. If I head up there next year, I'll be trailering. With my tiny nuts comfortably ensconced...

 

[RinconVTR]

Is anybody using the Harbor Freight chock? Hard to beat the price. Just wonder if it fits the Feej front wheel.

Yep. I used the Harbor Freight version on my 4X8 trailer for some time. Works great, and almost as rock stable as a once borrowed LA Chock. But as noted above, I use 2-4 tie downs when I trailer so it makes no difference. I did not fit the FJR on the trailer (or the garage), but I've had a number of bikes on there from an HD FXDX, HD Streetglide, 98 VTR, 02 VFR, and an SV1000s. It will hold the FJR just fine...

 

[El Toro]

One other comment on the Condor Chock. If you don't want the entry lip on the chock to dig a hole in your lower cowl, cut the lip off the chock, and make sure you've picked your pivot point so that it will fully clear the cowl under all suspension excursions. I transported my FJR in a Condor Chock about 1350 miles on one trip, and I did not have the pivot in its optimal position. I powdered a fair amount of plastic with this mistake.

One thing I would point out is that I did not say that the Condor would dig into your lower cowl. I said to be sure you've positioned the pivot point so that it won't, and I suggested cutting off the entry lip, which really adds nothing to the locking or loading capability of the Condor.

All you have to do is flip the chock in the rails to position the extended lip forward of the tire and have the non extended end in the back. You do not need to cut anything off.

It appears they've changed the pivoting piece. I've had mine for a long time, and it does not look like your pictures. After cutting it off, filing smooth, and repainting, it looks like your picture. Maybe they decided that the lip was a dumb idea and fixed it in subsequent versions.

Some one else has posted some pics of the Harbor Freight chock. I bought one of these once because they were so cheap in price.

I gave it away because it was so cheap in quality.

I know ..... ymmv

 

[cdc]

Is anybody using the Harbor Freight chock? Hard to beat the price. Just wonder if it fits the Feej front wheel.
I use Canyon Dancers, not the best but better than straigh hooks. Looking for a Canyon Dancer II now, probably easier on the bars.

And yes cdc, it's a ***** to live 600+ miles from either a corner or a change in elevation. Most of the "never trailer" types live closer to interesting roads or better weather (I'd take 103F 15%RH anyday over the **** we've been having around here lately) than we do. I've quit riding to NM, I must have done the I-45/287/40 thing a half dozen time this last year. Rather do it in a day in the truck with wifey than take an extra 3 days of 1200 miles of useless wear on the tires/bike, just to say I can do it.

The one on the first post is a Harbor Freight.

 

[RinconVTR]

The one on the first post is a Harbor Freight.

Yes, but they make two and some stores sell 3.

The Gray one is a light duty chock for trailer (or bolted to something) use only.

The all black version is heavy duty 1/8" welded steel chock (its a tank) sold with and without a front bar for standalone use and/or trailer use. The bar for standalone use comes off with two bolts and then you have a chock to bolt to a trailer.

There are also multiple mounting holes (for the chock itself) that allow it to move back and forth about 6-8 inches, and this has come in VERY handy while towing various bike on the same trailer in order to balance the trailer.

The black version is one thing coming from Harbor Freight that isn’t cheap. It’s actually over built. The price is low because of the material...steel vs aluminum.

 

[ctfjr]

I am using the Condor front wheel chock and only plan on using two straps as they suggest in this video plus I"ll be strapping the front tire to the chock. Tried it yesterday on the freeway and it went well.
Condor Chock with only two straps click on trailer only videos when link opens

thoughts???

.

This is an approach I had not seen in my 'week long research' on the subject. A common suggestion is to tie the bike pulling forward, toward the chock and this guys are suggesting to use only two straps in the middle back... looks risky to me, but I am am sure it works or they would not be saying so.

I strongly recommend against this idea. I tried it with my ST1100 when I first bought my Condor Chock and the bike ended up against the side of the trailer (enclosed trailer).

I really like Condor Chocks, but you have to respect the heavy bike, and tie it down front and rear to have a secure transport.

If you are just riding on level roads with large radius turns at modest speeds, you might get away with the lazy approach of two tie downs. It took less than 15 miles for my ST1100 to get into trouble.

An FJR is very similar in geometry and weight to an ST1100, and I would expect similar. I was not dumb enough to try it with the FJR.

One other comment on the Condor Chock. If you don't want the entry lip on the chock to dig a hole in your lower cowl, cut the lip off the chock, and make sure you've picked your pivot point so that it will fully clear the cowl under all suspension excursions. I transported my FJR in a Condor Chock about 1350 miles on one trip, and I did not have the pivot in its optimal position. I powdered a fair amount of plastic with this mistake.

In general I like Condor Chocks, but Condor did not get along as well with my FJR as it does with my other bikes. And I certainly wouldn't trust the two tie down method. Looks cool. Didn't work for me.

Although I agree with much of what you say El toro, I haven't had any problems whatsoever with the FJR & Condor.