Clock Resetting/changing time

[RockRidge]

Hi guys, I've searched previous posts on this but most seem to be when the engine is started. My clock changes time when the ignition key is turned off and then back on. Not always but quite regularly. Almost all the time after overnight but sometimes even after a short stop/fuel fill. I've started noting the time when stop and then when put key in again, sometimes goes back to 01.00 sometimes just changes by a variable amount. When press the starter the time stays the same as it was before the starter pressed, whatever that was.

I have no starting issues and engine turns fine and starts every time first time. It's a Gen 2 2010 model.

Any ideas please

 

[RossKean]

If it is not happening when starting then it isn't a function of the voltage being drawn too low by a high current draw or a bad battery (the usual cause of reset). The only other thing that occurs to me is a poor connection at the battery or a bad ignition switch. I have never heard of this problem. Good luck.

 

[Dodahdude]

I kind of... had the same problem on my 2004. Oddly, the battery was 8 years old and still held a cranking charge. I changed the battery out and the clock issue went away. I talked to the dealer and they have never seen anything like it. Especially, that old of a battery that read good! Hope that helps you some.

 

[Fred W]

The power that goes to the instrument panel for the clock doesn't go through the ignition switch. I don't see how key switching the bike on would reset the clock.

Backup Power to the clock, trip odometer, and windshield drive mechanism comes from the battery at all times via the "Main" fuse, and the "Backup" fuse. And if the backup fuse were blown for some reason none of these things would work at all since there is no alternate power path when the key is switched on.

It is a very common symptom of a battery on its way out that you get clock and trip odometer resets when starting the bike. This happens because the starter loads the battery voltage down too low during starting. Counter-intuitively this symptom seems to first appear during hot starts (not cold ones) for some reason never fully determined. It may continue to start the bike with the resetting electronics for some time until the battery is no longer able to turn the bike over fast enough, or the voltage drops too low for the fuel injection to work.

In any case, I'd be looking at replacing the battery for the reset symptom 1st.

edit - Unless... this is some sort of symptom of a bad ground path for the instrument panel? Another spider sutuation we hadn't heard of before?

 

[eflyguy]

There are many factors that can make a battery appear to have a full charge when it in fact does not, and ability to start the bike does not indicate that it is healthy. It is quite possible for a battery to lose voltage as the plates are contaminated - again, for multiple reasons - and could still start the bike as the load would "break through" some of those deposits on the plates.

Replace the battery, then report back.

 

[RockRidge]

Thanks for comments guys. I'm hesitant to just replace what seems like a good battery, just to see if clock doesn't reset. Surely if it was the battery then the reset would occur when the engine is turning, when power drain the highest. Not just when the ignition is turned on. Not sure if this is a coincidence but the clock problems started at the same time that the auto-retract function of the wind shield stopped working.

 

[Bounce]

When the ignition is turned on there is a spike in load while the system check happens (dials sweep) yet no support from the charging system. Short of the actual starter and headlight, that would be the worst case load.

 

[Fred W]

Thanks for comments guys. I'm hesitant to just replace what seems like a good battery, just to see if clock doesn't reset. Surely if it was the battery then the reset would occur when the engine is turning, when power drain the highest. Not just when the ignition is turned on. Not sure if this is a coincidence but the clock problems started at the same time that the auto-retract function of the wind shield stopped working.

Wait... Auto retract is not working? As I mentioned earlier, the clock, trip meter, and auto retract are the three things powered by the Backup power fuse. Check the backup power fuse before you buy a new battery.

 

[RockRidge]

Cheers Fred W, do you know where the backup fuse is? The trip meter does reset also so sounds like could be this.

 

[Fred W]

Yep. From the 2nd Gen Owners Manual, Fuse labeled 5

In case you do not recognize it from the picture, the fuse box is right behind your battery in the front right faring.

 

[RossKean]

It does sound like the fuse. The question is, of course, what caused the fuse to blow in the first place? Were you doing anything "electrical" on the bike?

 

[RockRidge]

Thanks guys again. Had a proper look tonight. Took the fairing off so can get to all the fuses, battery and a lot of the wiring.

1. Checked backup fuse and ok intact.

2. Checked all fuses in both boxes - again all ok.

3. Measured voltage across battery. Approx 12.5V when key not in. When ignition on about 12.3V. When engine turning drops to about 10.5V, returns to 12.5V when engine started.

If I turn ignition on after long rest (i.e. overnight) generally clock at 1.00 and trips reset. While ignition on set clock to correct time. Then turn key off, wait couple of minutes and turn ignition back on, time still correct to what I set. Start the engine and time still correct. Turn key off for a couple of minutes and then back on - time generally still correct. Leave ignition off for couple of hours generally wrong time when turned back on = sometimes 1.00 sometimes random time.

It's as if the clock is being reset while ignition is off, but only for a long period of time. It then resets to 1.00 and then depends how long passes before I turn ignition back on. If resets to 1.00 at some point while turned off and it then say 2 1/2 hours later turn ignition on, it would show 3.30.

Hope that makes sense. Got me totally beat. Seems to just rest at random times while ignition is off for a period of time. Generally keeps time/trip ok when turned off for just a short period of time.

While fairing off I've given all the connectors a spray with ACF50 in case water getting in.

I've also put battery on overnight charge just to see if that makes any difference.

Any ideas would be greatly received.

Cheers

 

[Fred W]

"returns to 12.5V when engine started."

This is not good. You should see ~ 14V at the battery terminals when the bike is running. It could be that your charging system is in trouble, but I think we are back to suspecting that your battery is toast.

 

[SouthernCruizer]

13.8 to about 14.4 is the usual range showing when my bike is running. I vote for bad battery also.

 

[RockRidge]

I'll double check again tonight voltage when running as had battery on charge overnight.

 

[Joel S.]

just get the battery tested at a place like batteries plus or something, they would have an electronic tester, not an old school load tester.

i would pull the panel and ride to get it tested, or bring the battery to get tested, should be great, but speculating on diagnostic steps usually adds tons of wasted time.

does the clock reset turning the key on, or after cranking the bike ?? reread, looks like just turning the key on. hmm

sounds like a cluster/ wiring issue vs a battery issue, if riding is good, never resets, so that might eliminate loose/poor connections based on vibration. might be a voltage drop, then a battery discharge too would amplify this.

tough to diagnose intermittents for sure.

 

[Bounce]

If the clock has a capacitor in the circuit that buffers bike's dips and spikes, the way it's acting could account for the capacitor maintaining a constant v during short off duration but become problematic over longer off times as the capacitor discharges.

 

[Snudge]

Was this problem ever resolved?

Reason for asking is that my 2010 model (41000 miles) started to exhibit exactly the same symptoms about four weeks ago, clock resets to 1.00 when ignition off, both trip meters reset to clear,and wind shield does not auto retract when ignition key turned off.

Fuses all OK, battery is about 15 months old.

Ground spider S6, under glove box was cropped off and all six wires soldered together 5 years ago. S1, S2, S3, S4, S5, S7 & S8 were opened, cleaned and filled with NOALOX jointing compound about 10000 miles ago. S4 and S6 are earthed direct to the negative battery terminal and S7 & S8 direct to the chassis at the headstock.

I normally have a battery tender connected when the bike is not in use, but haven't done so since last June when some scrote broke into my garage and stole my XT500, since then the power socket has been connected to an old TV antenna, in case they make a return visit.

The bike has been standing, unused, for two weeks and when I checked the battery this afternoon, it was showing 12.2 volts, no problem starting the bike and at tickover the battery was showing 13.5 volts, after stopping the engine it dropped to 12.5 volts, this increased to 13.2 volts after 4 hours on the battery tender, and is now up to 14.24 volts after eight hours, so the battery seems to be accepting a charge.

The bike is not used for short trips but for touring or tank full to empty days, so minimum 200 miles a time.

Anybody got any ideas, all suggestions welcome and much appreciated.

 

[Bounce]

Most often it's a low battery or bad connections. Load test the battery and clean all connections between the battery and the engine and ECU.