Clutch and brake fluids

[moondog]

To all the FJR experts out there: How do you know when to change the clutch and brake fluid? The clutch fluid on my FJR '05 looks clean in the indicator window but the brake fluid looks all black. Is this normal? I have only 20k on the bike, everything is working fine.

 

[08FJR4ME]

To all the FJR experts out there: How do you know when to change the clutch and brake fluid? The clutch fluid on my FJR '05 looks clean in the indicator window but the brake fluid looks all black. Is this normal? I have only 20k on the bike, everything is working fine.

The dealer told me to change it out every season. He also said just do the resevoirs. Suck it out and add new oil. Eventually it will mix all in. Or you can do it 2 or 3 times a year like me. Cheap insurance.

Dave

 

[Ignacio]

How about looking at the service schedule that says every two years. It's mostly time dependent...not mile dependent. 2005 model....it's 2010......maybe it's time to change it.

 

[reecebike]

If its looks black it needs to be changed!!!

 

[FJRBluesman]

How about looking at the service schedule that says every two years. It's mostly time dependent...not mile dependent. 2005 model....it's 2010......maybe it's time to change it.

The good Mayor said it politically correct. On a Friday no less. Ig, you're loosing it.
A sudden influx of these have hit today.

 

[charismaticmegafauna]

How do you know when to change the clutch and brake fluid?

It's mostly time dependent...not mile dependent.

It's also considerably 'locale' dependent. IOW, if your FJR spends its life (mostly) in the arid desert Southwest it's a lot less likely to have its, hydroscopic, hydraulic fluid contaminated by moisture than, say, a Midwest FJR (in a similar time period).

 

[cougar8000]

Some of us local to you will most likely be getting together shortly to take care of just that, brake/clutch fluid. let me know if you want to join on the fun and get yours changed as well.

 

[Geezer]

I try to get to it once a year. Sometimes I get lazy and let it go 2 years. Same on my cars and trucks. It only takes a half hour at most, and a few dollars woth of fluid. If you do it often enough you don't have to worry about getting every drop of the old stuff out.

 

[RadioHowie]

How do you know when to change the clutch and brake fluid?

It's mostly time dependent...not mile dependent.

It's also considerably 'locale' dependent. IOW, if your FJR spends its life (mostly) in the arid desert Southwest it's a lot less likely to have its, hydroscopic, hydraulic fluid contaminated by moisture than, say, a Midwest FJR (in a similar time period).

No offense, CMM, but this "climate/moisture" assertion has always bugged the hell outta me.

The system is closed. Sealed. Ninguna entrada, por favor. If it wasn't, then brake/clutch fluid would be leaking all over the damn place.

So how in hell is moisture gonna get in there, unless someone's constantly taking the reservoir cover off for no good reason?

 

[fjr mississippi]

How do you know when to change the clutch and brake fluid?

It's mostly time dependent...not mile dependent.

It's also considerably 'locale' dependent. IOW, if your FJR spends its life (mostly) in the arid desert Southwest it's a lot less likely to have its, hydroscopic, hydraulic fluid contaminated by moisture than, say, a Midwest FJR (in a similar time period).

No offense, CMM, but this "climate/moisture" assertion has always bugged the hell outta me.

The system is closed. Sealed. Ninguna entrada, por favor. If it wasn't, then brake/clutch fluid would be leaking all over the damn place.

So how in hell is moisture gonna get in there, unless someone's constantly taking the reservoir cover off for no good reason?

+1 This has never made sense to me. I change mine every couple of years maybe and I most certainly live in a "high moisture area".

 

[S76]

To all the FJR experts out there: How do you know when to change the clutch and brake fluid? The clutch fluid on my FJR '05 looks clean in the indicator window but the brake fluid looks all black. Is this normal? I have only 20k on the bike, everything is working fine.

The dealer told me to change it out every season. He also said just do the resevoirs. Suck it out and add new oil. Eventually it will mix all in. Or you can do it 2 or 3 times a year like me. Cheap insurance.

Dave

I'm not sure I'm buying that theory. The fluid in the lines and calipers just shuttles back and forth. It doesn't really return to the resevoir. I think a flush is way more effective.

And for those that want to know how moisture gets into a sealed system..........................that's a good question. Can only happen when the cap is off. Moral-Don't take the cap off.

I flush mine every two or three years. What you really want to protect is the ABS module. That thing is going to be serious money of it gets fouled up with corrosion.

 

[HaulinAshe]

Moisture can (and does) seep into the fluid systems from the various seals. Both "ends" of the systems are sealed with rubber, but over time moisture does make its way in.

I like to change them all once per year. Suck the reservoirs dry, fill with fresh, then vacuum all the bleeders until fresh fluid is pulled all the way through the systems. You can watch it turn from caramel to clear.

 

[Blind Squirrel]

I can assure you moisture DOES get into the brake system somehow. My hydraulic ABS component rusted because of it. $1200 to replace it. I will be changing my fluids at least once a year.

 

[BigOgre]

Now yas gots me thinkin'

Probably hasn't been the best idea putting the open bottle back on the shelf waiting for the next change, right?

 

[xcsp]

And for those that want to know how moisture gets into a sealed system..........................that's a good question. Can only happen when the cap is off. Moral-Don't take the cap off.

Just a guess, but the brake fluid gets hot and then cools, which may cause condensation (moisture) to form in the system.

Brake fluid is cheap, sounds like you guys with ABS can run into costly repairs if you prolong the fluid change intervals.

BigOgre, correct, best not to use brake fluid from an opened container.

 

[cougar8000]

Last night I have installed Speed Bleeders all around and bleed the system. What made no sense is when I checked the manual there was no mention of the LEFT front side as far as bleeding is concerned.

Do not forget that front right has two nipples. Yes, I said nipples, I like nipples. :yahoo: bottom one is activated by the rear brake BTW.

 

[RadioHowie]

Just a guess, but the brake fluid gets hot and then cools, which may cause condensation (moisture) to form in the system.

Spontaneous Generation? Nah...won't happen. It's gotta already be in there to condense after a heat cycle.

Brake fluid is cheap, sounds like you guys with ABS can run into costly repairs if you prolong the fluid change intervals.

Yeppers! +1

 

[mcatrophy]

How do you know when to change the clutch and brake fluid?

It's mostly time dependent...not mile dependent.

It's also considerably 'locale' dependent. IOW, if your FJR spends its life (mostly) in the arid desert Southwest it's a lot less likely to have its, hydroscopic, hydraulic fluid contaminated by moisture than, say, a Midwest FJR (in a similar time period).

No offense, CMM, but this "climate/moisture" assertion has always bugged the hell outta me.

The system is closed. Sealed. Ninguna entrada, por favor. If it wasn't, then brake/clutch fluid would be leaking all over the damn place.

So how in hell is moisture gonna get in there, unless someone's constantly taking the reservoir cover off for no good reason?

Not sure about the Yamaha, but my Trophy's brake reservoir did have a very small groove in the lid across the seal, probably for air ingress to allow for pad wear requiring more fluid in the pistons.

As for moisture getting into all of the fluid, there is always a small amount moving between reservoir and line during normal braking, and it will gradually permeate throughout all the fluid over time.

 

[RadioHowie]

Not sure about the Yamaha, but my Trophy's brake reservoir did have a very small groove in the lid across the seal, probably for air ingress to allow for pad wear requiring more fluid in the pistons.

I'm still not convinced. That's why the "seal" between the reservoir and the lid is a mini-bellows that can expand/contract with the reservoir level.

I just seems funny that I can leave a VERY hygroscopic compound sealed only in a paper bag on my kitchen shelf for five years and NO moisture gets absorbed (read: 5lb bag of sugar), yet the mineral oil in a sealed system sucks humidity right out of the air through rubber hoses and aluminum fittings.

I'm still calling it an Urban Myth. Wonder what these guys would say about it?