clutch cable adjustment

[wonderdawg]

I have a 2005 fjr. I would like to adjust the tension on the clutch cable. I want to do this because when I shift from into second gear there is a load mechanicle clunk sound. So I am assuming the clutch is not engaging completly and making that clunking sound. Any help, questions, or opinions would be of great assistance.

Regards,

W. D.

 

[mdisher]

the FJR's Clutch is hydraulic, the only adjustment is at the lever.

If it's a 2005 and the fluid is original you might want to consider replacing it.

-MD

 

[SkooterG]

the FJR's Clutch is hydraulic, the only adjustment is at the lever.

If it's a 2005 and the fluid is original you might want to consider replacing it.

-MD

You were WAAAAY too nice my friend. I would have had some fun with this one.

 

[mdisher]

the FJR's Clutch is hydraulic, the only adjustment is at the lever.

If it's a 2005 and the fluid is original you might want to consider replacing it.

-MD

You were WAAAAY too nice my friend. I would have had some fun with this one.

I thought about it but it's not Friday yet

 

[painman]

It's usually neutral into first and usually only when bike is cold do "we" get the "clunk". And yes, do keep the clutch fluid fresh. PM. <><

 

[ionbeam]

...when I shift from into second gear there is a load mechanicle clunk sound. So I am assuming the clutch is not engaging disengaging completly and making that clunking sound...

[/Friday] One time newbie exemption.

With your FJR fully warmed up, running, on the center stand and in neutral, pull in the clutch lever and shift into second gear and hold the clutch lever in right to the bar. Is the rear wheel turning? If the wheel isn't turning, the clutch is fully disengaged. If it is turning fairly rapidly then the clutch is not fully disengaged and may indeed dragging. If the rear wheel is turning fairly slowly, carefully touch the tire with the toe of your BOOT. Did it come to a stop with almost no pressure? If you did the toe thingie and it stopped with little to no effort then the clutch is fully disengaged.

If there is air in the clutch hydraulic system the clutch may not fully disengage. Now would be the time to not just bleed the system but flush the system.

If the clutch is indeed disengaging then it may be time to service the shift linkage system which involves removing the foot pedal assembly to access the key pivot on the inside of the pedal assembly which is known to bind up when dirty. This should be done as part of normal maintenance and it will affect the way the gear changes are made. If you decide to do this normal maintenance job let us know so we can advise you about how to deal with the conical compression washer on the pivot.

 

[wmadoty]

Preload the shifter before pulling in you clutch. These bike do not like the first to second shift much at all. They also do not like lazy shifting. Shift sweet as hell when you go through them fast but that gets you a performance awards (tickets). Preloading the shifter seems like a pain, but you will get used to it fast.

 

[smellthat?]

Wait, wha? Clutch cable . . . doesn't ring a bell.

 

[HaulinAshe]

Oh hell! Do you have any idea how many clutch cables I have to go adjust!!!?

 

[wfooshee]

Always wondered what that l'il box was for, up there by the clutch lever . . . . .

(It's Friday in Japan, where the thing was made. That counts, right?)

 

[wonderdawg]

Thanks one and all for your advice. I did not realize it was a hydraulic clutch, but that is why I am a FNG. The bike I rode for the last 13 years was all very mechanical as it was a 1983 yamaha XJ900 Seca. So hydrualics, fuel injection, ABS, electronicly raised or lowered fairings are all new to me. But again thanks for your advice.

Regards,

W. D.