Clutch is sticking

[Steel_Gin]

Now that my FJR (’12) is in hibernation this is the time to take care of a problem that is getting worse. With under 1000 miles her the clutch started to stick and ended up taking it in with about 1500 miles on her for a clutch soak. (done in May & covered under warranty) The sticking issue was gone for about 1500 miles then the sticking started again and has slowly gotten worse as time goes on. Didn’t bring it back in because I didn’t want to lose out of anymore riding. (8100 on the ODO now) When it’s cold the plates stick, once I shift through the gears a few times and it’s really warmed up it shifts better now than it did before the soak, I think anyway. The last two times I have gone for a ride it has sat for four or five days, I start it up, let her warm up to two bars, clutch is pulled in, kickstand is up, pop it in to first and with a pretty sudden jump forward it quits/stalls. The first time that happened and I almost went down. (In August it sat for a week when the family and I went on vacation and this did not happen the next time I took it out.)

Talked to the dealer about this last week, I was asking questions about putting in after-market clutch plates. They suggested trying full synthetic oil (Yamalube) to see if that helps before spending a bunch of money. (Was using Semi-Syn Yamalube before) Sounded reasonable to me and simple enough so why not give it a try. After changing to full-syn and 50 miles later the bike sat for about a week, let her warm up to two bars, clutch pulled in, kickstand is up, this time grabbed some front brake, popped it in to first and with a pretty good jolt trying to go forward it quits/stalls again. Put in to neutral, start it up again, pop it in to first and it goes in beautifully just like it should from the get go.

So here are my questions: 1) should I give the different oil more time? 2) I’m thinking about after-market clutch plates and curious if anyone has installed some on their FJR? What brand did you use, do you like them, any sticking issues and how many miles would be reasonable to get out of them? Would I just need plates or do I need additional parts? What is the price range for the parts I would need?

Even with this issue I still love this bike and can’t wait until spring rolls back around again. I just want this resolved before some sort of damage is caused.

 

[petey]

Now that my FJR (’12) is in hibernation this is the time to take care of a problem that is getting worse. With under 1000 miles her the clutch started to stick and ended up taking it in with about 1500 miles on her for a clutch soak. (done in May & covered under warranty) The sticking issue was gone for about 1500 miles then the sticking started again and has slowly gotten worse as time goes on. Didn’t bring it back in because I didn’t want to lose out of anymore riding. (8100 on the ODO now) When it’s cold the plates stick, once I shift through the gears a few times and it’s really warmed up it shifts better now than it did before the soak, I think anyway. The last two times I have gone for a ride it has sat for four or five days, I start it up, let her warm up to two bars, clutch is pulled in, kickstand is up, pop it in to first and with a pretty sudden jump forward it quits/stalls. The first time that happened and I almost went down. (In August it sat for a week when the family and I went on vacation and this did not happen the next time I took it out.)

Talked to the dealer about this last week, I was asking questions about putting in after-market clutch plates. They suggested trying full synthetic oil (Yamalube) to see if that helps before spending a bunch of money. (Was using Semi-Syn Yamalube before) Sounded reasonable to me and simple enough so why not give it a try. After changing to full-syn and 50 miles later the bike sat for about a week, let her warm up to two bars, clutch pulled in, kickstand is up, this time grabbed some front brake, popped it in to first and with a pretty good jolt trying to go forward it quits/stalls again. Put in to neutral, start it up again, pop it in to first and it goes in beautifully just like it should from the get go.

So here are my questions: 1) should I give the different oil more time? 2) I’m thinking about after-market clutch plates and curious if anyone has installed some on their FJR? What brand did you use, do you like them, any sticking issues and how many miles would be reasonable to get out of them? Would I just need plates or do I need additional parts? What is the price range for the parts I would need?

Even with this issue I still love this bike and can’t wait until spring rolls back around again. I just want this resolved before some sort of damage is caused.

The warranty should take care of this problem. If, some of the clutch plates are damaged, then mama yamy should replace them, PERIOD!

 

[odot]

You should be running with amsoil to begin with.

After that, I'd find the leak on the hydraulic clutch line and fix that.

 

[Steel_Gin]

I agree Yamaha should take care of this, that will be my first approach. I'm putting this question out there to have a plan B to fall back on it they don't.

As far as a hydraulic leak, that thought has crossed my mind and been keeping a close eye on the fluid. The level hasn't changed. Besides, after it warms up it shifts great so I'm not too convinced that is the problem yet keeping an eye on the fluid anyway.

 

[John d]

When cold, I operate the clutch a few times before putting it into first. That helps a lot. Most times it just snicks into gear then. To make it even smoother when cold, pull the clutch lever, and give it a small rev.

 

[odot]

I agree Yamaha should take care of this, that will be my first approach. I'm putting this question out there to have a plan B to fall back on it they don't.

As far as a hydraulic leak, that thought has crossed my mind and been keeping a close eye on the fluid. The level hasn't changed. Besides, after it warms up it shifts great so I'm not too convinced that is the problem yet keeping an eye on the fluid anyway.

Um, bleed down check?

 

[UHOH]

After changing to full-syn and 50 miles later the bike sat for about a week, let her warm up to two bars, clutch pulled in, kickstand is up, this time grabbed some front brake, popped it in to first and with a pretty good jolt trying to go forward it quits/stalls again. Put in to neutral, start it up again, pop it in to first and it goes in beautifully just like it should from the get go.

I'm a minimalist.

So leave your bike in first gear when you park; on riding - gear up,

then push your bike back so it's headed out, still in first gear.

Only then start bike, first gear still engaged/clutch in, ride off within seconds.

Screw the engine warm up. Start it and ride. Problem solved.

 

[roger dodger]

Minimalist is best....path of least resistance....lowest cost fixes first.

Since I didn't want to do a clutch soak, I changed the oil (1/2 syn) w/ some gains.

Then I started to count to 4 before shifting w/ some more gains.

Then I BLED the CLUTCH and got significant gains w/ (almost) perfect shifts. YMMV

 

[HotRodZilla]

I'm wondering if you just don't have some air in your clutch line. Its possible, just not common. I would bleed that line and replace the fluid before I spent more money chasing a fix.

 

[odot]

Man, you gurus are ON today. Keep up the good work.

 

[Falko]

One way I knew it was my plates sticking and not a bleeding issue, when shifting, pull the clutch in then rap the throttle with the clutch pulled in. It would break the plates loose every time. If there is a bleeding problem, they will loosen but go back to sticking when the rpms fall.

 

[Fred W]

Let's discuss...

If there was an air bubble in your air lines it could definitely cause some clutch drag. Why? Cause when you pull the clutch lever in it will only displace so much volume. If there is air in the lines, then you use up some of the master cylinder stroke just compressing the air before you even start to accomplish any real work at the slave end. Bleed your lines if you have any question at all. (Good suggestion 'zilla).

OTOH, if you can pull the clutch in, while in neutral, and blip the throttle a few times, and this then results in a let violent gear engagement, then air isn't the problem. The problem in this case is that the clutch plates have too much friction even when the springs are released. This is what the clutch plate soak thing is all about.

My persoanl experience limited to 1st gen FJRs (which have the same clutch assembly as 2nd gens, but the hydraulic actuation is different) is that I can start my bike in gear with the clutch in, and this results in no "kerchunk" at all. But I generally only do that when the bike is warm and the oil is thin. With a cold engine, the battery has enough trouble turning over the engine to not want to add the load of the clutch drag for the initial start. YMMV here.

Because you have a late 2nd gen, I must ask if you have the clutch lever adjusters set for a smaller pull. If so, try cranking them out so that you have a longer reach, and therefore a longer master cylinder stroke. Many a 2nd gen rider has complained about clutch dragging symptoms and the root cause has been that they have adjusted to lever in closer to the bars. Don't. You want full dis-engagement, leave the levers all the way out. Problem solved.

 

[LAF]

I had the same lurching and instead of a clutch soak I installed a Barnett clutch pack and Scorpion Spring Kit.

At 0 miles!

Not too bad on cost and I really have no issues now. However I run Mobil 1 and Risoline as a ZDP additive.

 

[Steel_Gin]

Thank you very much everyone for your thoughts on this. I really appreciate all your help!!

Being an IT guy, when I fix computer problems I always try and make sure the simple things are tried first. If those don’t work then roll up your selves and really ding in to it. Trying to keep it simple, the clutch lever was set at 3 so I changed it to 1. Weather tomorrow looks pretty good so I will try to take it out tomorrow and see if anything changes. I’ll report back if I can get a one hour pass from my bride.

If that doesn’t seem to fix the problem the most popular thought is bleeding the hydraulic line, I will try that next. Since I have never done this before on the FJR let alone haven’t done this in a very long time, it will take a bit longer to report back the results. Need to read up on it and buy some fluid. I have seen a hand pump in a post someplace in this forum people have used and might buy one, so that could add a little more time on the report back.

After market clutch plates & springs, I will look at the ones LAF used. I don’t want to spend a bunch of money on this, yet if it will solve the problem I will be much happier. Before that I will lean on Yamaha a bit more, the bike isn’t a year old yet after all.

Thanks again for all your ideas!! Hope to report back tomorrow.

 

[RadioHowie]

LAF, why is your forward motor mount bolt and collar missing?

Remove a slider to remove the plastic?

 

[LAF]

LAF, why is your forward motor mount bolt and collar missing?

Remove a slider to remove the plastic?

Yes the sliders I have will not come through the plastic on the right side. I have to snake an extension into the pinch bolt from the front then remove the slider to pull the right side plastic. Left one is fine.

I also want to mention that Barnett says to soak the plates 20 minuets and that is it. I called them and also asked and they said after 20 minuets everything that is coated and absorbed is done. While it goes against everything that is stated on this forum, I went with it, hell these guys are clutch experts after all.

 

[Steel_Gin]

Thank you very much everyone for your thoughts on this. I really appreciate all your help!!

Being an IT guy, when I fix computer problems I always try and make sure the simple things are tried first. If those don’t work then roll up your selves and really ding in to it. Trying to keep it simple, the clutch lever was set at 3 so I changed it to 1. Weather tomorrow looks pretty good so I will try to take it out tomorrow and see if anything changes. I’ll report back if I can get a one hour pass from my bride.

If that doesn’t seem to fix the problem the most popular thought is bleeding the hydraulic line, I will try that next. Since I have never done this before on the FJR let alone haven’t done this in a very long time, it will take a bit longer to report back the results. Need to read up on it and buy some fluid. I have seen a hand pump in a post someplace in this forum people have used and might buy one, so that could add a little more time on the report back.

After market clutch plates & springs, I will look at the ones LAF used. I don’t want to spend a bunch of money on this, yet if it will solve the problem I will be much happier. Before that I will lean on Yamaha a bit more, the bike isn’t a year old yet after all.

Thanks again for all your ideas!! Hope to report back tomorrow.

Didn't get out yesterday. Hope things free up over the holiday and the weather holds.

 

[Pegasus]

I've just become the happy owner of an 08 model. Am having the well documented clunk/grind into first and stiff shifting in the rest of the box ( except to/from 5th ). As my roster gives me five days off starting today and it is my only transport to work I am striking while the iron is hot... or cold if you're a pedant.

On opening the clutch I found that the NSW Police shed gorillas had been in before me. The steel plates appear to have been treated with a wire brush and have no black gookus. Indeed, there is no black gookus anywhere. The lock tab on the large centre nut has been folded flat and the fibre plates had their pink marks distributed between the seven and twelve o'clock positions ( reference triangle marks being at 12 ). The inner and outer plates were wet as expected. The inner plates were pretty dry, but had oil on them once upon a time. The bike has 60KKM.

Questions;

Is the clutch centre nut known to wind off in these machines? Can I leave it, or just bend the washer up a little to provide resistance? The tab is exactly lined up with a corner of the nut.

Knowing that I don't know how long the plates have been in their 'wrong' positions, should I correct this or can I assume they will continue to play nicely together as-is?

All of the steel plates seemed a little bluer than I would expect, but they are not warped. Thoughts?

Can anyone tell me the service limit for the fibre plates and the torque settings for the bolts both inside the mechanism and the cover?

Cheers!

 

[Pegasus]

OK, forget the above question about wear limits and torque settings, found 'em online while I wait to take the plates out of the oil bath.