Clutch lever problem...defective design?

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SouthernCruizer

Is it Beer:30 yet?
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I have an '08, with about 67K on it. I have been noticing the last few weeks that there seemed to be some play in the clutch lever, especially up and down movement. I also noticed that the clutch has been engaging as soon as I start to relax pressure on the lever, whereas before, it would move a few mm before it started engaging. I finally quit procrastinating and pulled the clutch lever off to investigate.

The bushing in the main mount is worn out badly, and the little brass cylinder that the plunger fits into is totally out of round, and actually almost worn completely thru and thru. If I remember correctly, the wall thickness on the brass cylinder should be uniform, but as you can see in this picture, it has worn paper thin and is actually broken in some spots.

brasscylinder1.jpg


Here is another angle showing how out of round it has become.

brasscylinder2.jpg


This picture shows the slop in the whole damn thing.

completeunit.jpg


and here again...

completeunit2.jpg


Here is a picture of the main bushing that is worn out..

clutchlever1.jpg


And this last picture shows that the bolt and plunger are still in round, and normal..

boltandplunger1.jpg


I dont think that 67K miles is enough to trash the lever...my '04 had over 75K and was in good shape. Could this be a defect? Or worse, a design problem? Anyone experience the same problem?

 
The Bushing is there to take the wear. Just buy and insert a new bushing, part 3GM-26455-00-00 .

Unfortunately, it doesn't look like the main bushing is replaceable from Yamaha. I bet you could find one somewhere and replace it, instead of buying a whole new lever. I don't now why it would wear that way, unless the center bolt was too tight and caused it to bind. I just had mine apart to lubricate it and, at 50K miles, it doesn't look anything like yours.

 
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A little grease once a year will make that thing last a long time. Had the same thing happen to a previous Yamaha (Venture). Clutch feels notchy and the bearing wears prematurely if left dry.

Ross

 
Dude! You ever lube that thing? A little grease goes a looong way.

I replaced that brass bushing once (in 226k miles) because it was wearing (not as bad as yours) because I wasn't lubing as much as I should have been.

 
Can't think of a small maintance effort that pays a better return. Got an 04 with 85k and that barrel looks like new.

 
Two words...clean & lube.

Now you've got an excuse for a set of aftermarket levers, of course with a new bushing! ;)

--G

 
My usual method is to spray WD-40 in the clutch lever, front brake lever, rear brake lever, foot pegs, kickstand safety switch, and shifter every time I wash the bike. I use silicon on the rear brake light switch. I use white lithium grease in the kickstand about 3 times a year. I guess in this case it was not enough lube on the clutch lever, although, after having 3 other bikes with hydraulic clutches, this is the first lever to fail on me. I got one coming from Yamaha..$50.00.

Thanks for the replys.

 
It really is as simple as following the service manual and using the lubricants that are recommended. WD-40 is a lot better solvent than it is a lubricant. My guess is that bushing would have lasted a lot longer had you simply done nothing and left the original grease there, instead of washing it away with WD-40.

 
Yep, do as Momma Yamma says... lube every 4k miles. Don't forget to check the seal on the pushrod going into the mastercylinder. Mine had come loose and needed to be reseated. Easy-peasy :lol:

 
I've never had that problem on my bike :p
That damn AE model totally screws up the dealerships when looking for the part. I called 4 different dealers, and all 4 couldn't find the clutch lever because they were looking at the first FJR model that was listed, the AE! :rolleyes:

p.s.s they ranged in price from about $50 to about $75

 
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I clean both levers every year, and lube with white lithium grease. I notice smoother action after I clean and lube.

 
+1 to the report that WD40 probably caused this. Although people use it for all sorts of stuff now, WD40 was never originally intended to be used as a lubricant. Only a Water Displacer (hence the WD) and was designed for "rust prevention, solvent and degreaser" use, according to their own web site's historical account. It doesn't really have a thick enough film to prevent wear on a plain bearing like that one.

There are some other thin, penetrating type lubes that will dry to a lubricating film, like Boeshield T-9 or Dupont Teflon Spray lube, but probably the best lube for this application is just good ole' grease.

 
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...WD40 probably caused this. Although people use it for all sorts of stuff now, WD40 was never originally intended to be used as a lubricant...
Though in an emergency it can be used as an un-sticker, say for instance to free up a sticking brake pedal. ;)

 
+1 to the report that WD40 probably caused this. Although people use it for all sorts of stuff now, WD40 was never originally intended to be used as a lubricant. Only a Water Displacer (hence the WD) and was designed for "rust prevention, solvent and degreaser" use, according to their own web site's historical account. It doesn't really have a thick enough film to prevent wear on a plain bearing like that one.

There are some other thin, penetrating type lubes that will dry to a lubricating film, like Boeshield T-9 or Dupont Teflon Spray lube, but probably the best lube for this application is just good ole' grease.
I guess I should have used grease, but as i stated earlier, i've had 3 other bikes with similar lever, including a 2004 fjr, and all three bikes racked up miles using only WD40 and never failed. Guess it was just luck.

 
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