I performed this about 3 weeks ago.
Disclaimer: Try this at your own risk! Sorry I have no pix for this, as I thought it’d be easy and when it wasn’t, I was in no mood to share by stopping to take pix.
The beginning:
I love braided stainless steel lines for front brakes and clutch, and I’ve used Galfer lines on my last 4 bikes. I got a killer deal on a full set of Galfer hydraulic lines for a Gen1 ABS (specifically 2005). 9 cables in all: 6 cables for the front brakes and ABS stuff (look it up on the Galfer site why so many for the front, they have a pdf showing where they all go, etc.); 2 for the rear brakes/ABS; and one for the clutch. Clicky to Galfer 2005 FJR w/ABS pdf
I went to FJR1300info.com since they have such great “how to” documentation on this.
On my last Feej, 2005 NON-ABS, I did the front lines and clutch no issues pretty straight forward.
I decided to just look at the ABS mess and pulled the right side cover, not pretty. What they show you on FJR1300info looks all nice, easy, etc. My one brake line is way forward of the other line with NO room to really get at it. I’m sure during assembly in Japan it’s easier, but I’m gonna have a heck of time when I get there. So for now, I settled for just doing the clutch since I’ve done that, also helped another bloke at Fairlaners with his, so I’m “experienced” (laugh here).
I found some time one Saturday and thought, “all I need is about 2 hours I’ll be done, I’ve done this before”. Famous last words. I’ve never done one with ABS. What’s that your saying, “but Bluesy, ABS has nothing to do with the clutch”. Correct you are oh one of mechanical and hydraulic wisdom; however, it does matter in other ways my friend…. Read on for more enlightenment Mr/miss Skywalker.
I’ve enclosed a picture of the robust best year made Feej Gen1 2005. This shot from the manual shows the routing of the lines, wires, etc. Where the ABS come into play is here. Note: Front brake lines are on the right side of the bike. They enter at the steering head and at this point they are now solid rigid lines. They go inside the frame, then make an abrupt turn and head west, to the left side. They have multiple bends and run along the inner left side of the frame. They then come out near the engine tranny area and go under the starter and other goodies and come out on the right side of the frame not far from the ABS unit. The rigid lines have a rubber hose over each line to protect and insulate them.
“WOW! These two brake lines weren’t here last time I did this!” Duh. I also knew there was a nasty little bolt to take off on the inner left side of the frame that secured the clutch line. I was able to access my old bikes bolt form the top of the engine compartment, bolt on upper side of the clamp, not too hard got’er off, but not back on, helped lighten my bike.
But since this is the ABS model, that little bolt was now on the bottom of the clamp and I had the dualing front brake lines to deal with (see view A-A). As I s-l-o-w-l-y kept getting deeper into this operation, wondering when I should stop and say forget it, my mechanical mind tormented me to go deeper with every new obstacle. And I did always think, I can button ’er back up in a jiffy. But I kept thinking, “how hard can this be”? Well found out, a lot harder than I thought, well not really harder, now that I’ve done it, just more labor, etc, and caution as I went. I ended up pulling the left front fairing, side cover, tank up, T-bar out, rubber covers, disconnected a couple electrical couplings, etc.
https://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh271/FJRBluesman/FJRClutch.jpg
I had to finally pull the left side fairing and get to that nasty little bolt form the front side (see long arrow and note on pic). I used an 8mm open end to crack it loose then switched to my trusty 8mm ratcheting box end with thin walls. It really didn’t sit square on it, but enough to get it to work. Also needed to keep my other finger (on my other hand, wrapped around the rear side of the frame) on it so it wouldn’t fall off while ratcheting. Got the little bugger off and pitched the bolt and bracket, HUGE weight savings.
You’ll never get the bolt back in with the motor in so just chuck it. At first I was hoping to pull the cable thru the loosened clamp, but at the clamp point there was a rubber bushing with ears that would not pull past it, so I took the bracket totally off. BTW – There is also a bracket at the steering head (left side), very easy to access, reuse this one.
Now the other fun part was getting the clutch line out. I Mightyvac’d the fluid out and disconnected it. When I started yanking on the clutch line, parts of the rigid clutch line were bending, I’m now at the point of no return. Between the clutch line being under the two brake lines and there being a ton of other breather hoses and the wire harness bits (see area circled, they don’t show you this), the clutch line would not budge. After much carful tugging, looking, maneuvering, etc, I was fairly confident to just rip it out, and I did. Pulled it from the top and out (like peeling it out, not just pulling form one end), going to the clutch slave it finally broke loose of the tentacles of the other hoses and it came out like butter after that. To answer your other questions about the breather hoses, no way to remove those very easily, believe me.
I was almost temped to cut the line in spots and yank ‘er out. I thought better, DO NOT CUT IT OUT. I was in fear of having it slip past the wire harness and slit/cut some rather important electrical wires.
Ran the new line lickety-split, bleed it first with the Mightyvac, then fine-tuned it the old fashion way, using the lever, BAM! Back in business.
I know what you’re thinking, so Bluesy, how long did it take? From me removing the first bolt to putting away the last tool, FIVE BLOODY HOURS! My Saturday was GONE! And no, I’m not looking forward to the Front ABS lines at the rear of the bike, but I’ll get there.
BTW – If one strips, buggers, etc, the swedge connections on the rigid ABS lines, you are totally screwed. In order to replace the rigid lines the motor must be removed, no BS. Now I’ve thought of this issue for a while and my fix if this indeed happened would be, to have Galfer custom make me a couple lines, and I would have to reroute this on the bike. Probably cost a few hundred $$ max, but pulling the motor would be ginormous in labor $$.
Anyway, I hope this helps any other bone head like me replacing their Clutch line on an ABS Feej.
Disclaimer: Try this at your own risk! Sorry I have no pix for this, as I thought it’d be easy and when it wasn’t, I was in no mood to share by stopping to take pix.
The beginning:
I love braided stainless steel lines for front brakes and clutch, and I’ve used Galfer lines on my last 4 bikes. I got a killer deal on a full set of Galfer hydraulic lines for a Gen1 ABS (specifically 2005). 9 cables in all: 6 cables for the front brakes and ABS stuff (look it up on the Galfer site why so many for the front, they have a pdf showing where they all go, etc.); 2 for the rear brakes/ABS; and one for the clutch. Clicky to Galfer 2005 FJR w/ABS pdf
I went to FJR1300info.com since they have such great “how to” documentation on this.
On my last Feej, 2005 NON-ABS, I did the front lines and clutch no issues pretty straight forward.
I decided to just look at the ABS mess and pulled the right side cover, not pretty. What they show you on FJR1300info looks all nice, easy, etc. My one brake line is way forward of the other line with NO room to really get at it. I’m sure during assembly in Japan it’s easier, but I’m gonna have a heck of time when I get there. So for now, I settled for just doing the clutch since I’ve done that, also helped another bloke at Fairlaners with his, so I’m “experienced” (laugh here).
I found some time one Saturday and thought, “all I need is about 2 hours I’ll be done, I’ve done this before”. Famous last words. I’ve never done one with ABS. What’s that your saying, “but Bluesy, ABS has nothing to do with the clutch”. Correct you are oh one of mechanical and hydraulic wisdom; however, it does matter in other ways my friend…. Read on for more enlightenment Mr/miss Skywalker.
I’ve enclosed a picture of the robust best year made Feej Gen1 2005. This shot from the manual shows the routing of the lines, wires, etc. Where the ABS come into play is here. Note: Front brake lines are on the right side of the bike. They enter at the steering head and at this point they are now solid rigid lines. They go inside the frame, then make an abrupt turn and head west, to the left side. They have multiple bends and run along the inner left side of the frame. They then come out near the engine tranny area and go under the starter and other goodies and come out on the right side of the frame not far from the ABS unit. The rigid lines have a rubber hose over each line to protect and insulate them.
“WOW! These two brake lines weren’t here last time I did this!” Duh. I also knew there was a nasty little bolt to take off on the inner left side of the frame that secured the clutch line. I was able to access my old bikes bolt form the top of the engine compartment, bolt on upper side of the clamp, not too hard got’er off, but not back on, helped lighten my bike.
But since this is the ABS model, that little bolt was now on the bottom of the clamp and I had the dualing front brake lines to deal with (see view A-A). As I s-l-o-w-l-y kept getting deeper into this operation, wondering when I should stop and say forget it, my mechanical mind tormented me to go deeper with every new obstacle. And I did always think, I can button ’er back up in a jiffy. But I kept thinking, “how hard can this be”? Well found out, a lot harder than I thought, well not really harder, now that I’ve done it, just more labor, etc, and caution as I went. I ended up pulling the left front fairing, side cover, tank up, T-bar out, rubber covers, disconnected a couple electrical couplings, etc.
https://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh271/FJRBluesman/FJRClutch.jpg
I had to finally pull the left side fairing and get to that nasty little bolt form the front side (see long arrow and note on pic). I used an 8mm open end to crack it loose then switched to my trusty 8mm ratcheting box end with thin walls. It really didn’t sit square on it, but enough to get it to work. Also needed to keep my other finger (on my other hand, wrapped around the rear side of the frame) on it so it wouldn’t fall off while ratcheting. Got the little bugger off and pitched the bolt and bracket, HUGE weight savings.
You’ll never get the bolt back in with the motor in so just chuck it. At first I was hoping to pull the cable thru the loosened clamp, but at the clamp point there was a rubber bushing with ears that would not pull past it, so I took the bracket totally off. BTW – There is also a bracket at the steering head (left side), very easy to access, reuse this one. Now the other fun part was getting the clutch line out. I Mightyvac’d the fluid out and disconnected it. When I started yanking on the clutch line, parts of the rigid clutch line were bending, I’m now at the point of no return. Between the clutch line being under the two brake lines and there being a ton of other breather hoses and the wire harness bits (see area circled, they don’t show you this), the clutch line would not budge. After much carful tugging, looking, maneuvering, etc, I was fairly confident to just rip it out, and I did. Pulled it from the top and out (like peeling it out, not just pulling form one end), going to the clutch slave it finally broke loose of the tentacles of the other hoses and it came out like butter after that. To answer your other questions about the breather hoses, no way to remove those very easily, believe me.
I was almost temped to cut the line in spots and yank ‘er out. I thought better, DO NOT CUT IT OUT. I was in fear of having it slip past the wire harness and slit/cut some rather important electrical wires.
Ran the new line lickety-split, bleed it first with the Mightyvac, then fine-tuned it the old fashion way, using the lever, BAM! Back in business.
I know what you’re thinking, so Bluesy, how long did it take? From me removing the first bolt to putting away the last tool, FIVE BLOODY HOURS! My Saturday was GONE! And no, I’m not looking forward to the Front ABS lines at the rear of the bike, but I’ll get there.
BTW – If one strips, buggers, etc, the swedge connections on the rigid ABS lines, you are totally screwed. In order to replace the rigid lines the motor must be removed, no BS. Now I’ve thought of this issue for a while and my fix if this indeed happened would be, to have Galfer custom make me a couple lines, and I would have to reroute this on the bike. Probably cost a few hundred $$ max, but pulling the motor would be ginormous in labor $$.
Anyway, I hope this helps any other bone head like me replacing their Clutch line on an ABS Feej.
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